Canon 10-22 mm Lens

<p>I recently bought a canon 10-22 mm lens (for my Rebel T1i) after all the positive reviews of it on the internet. However, it is giving me very unpredictable results. Pictures are not as sharp as i had expected. And, if i keep ISO on auto one picture comes out real dark while the next one in the same situation (and of the same subject) the ISO gets automatically set at a high level. I am clicking at 15MP. Pictures are not as sharp as my other lenses. My other lenses are the 18-55 kit lens, 70 -200 mm, and the 50 mm prime lens. Please advice. Many thanks for your input.</p>

<p>Hi can you tell us what MM you are shooting at is the lens at its widest point, or are shooting at 22, i have the sigma 10-20 and have used the one you have and the high iso happens if you shoot in the zoom mode or at 22 in this case and can be very high particularly indoors, if you use a flash or better yet a shoe flash such as a 430ex or 580ex this issue becomes solved for the most part. I tried shooting indoors and to ge the sharp shots you had to end up at around f7 or f8 with a strong flash, now if your outside, well then as long as you are not hitting dusk i rarely have any issuse except dshooting only at 10mm the 12-14 works the best for overall shots and gives nice wide focused shots and i shoot manual at 200 iso .</p>

<p>I use a 10-22 on my XSi all the time and every shot is razor sharp . I use auto ISO and my shots are normally 200. Here are some examples. <br>

http://2zars.blogspot.com/2010/02/bridge-of-8-arches.html</p>

<p>If you bought it new, you might consider returning it for a replacement</p>

<p> </p>

<p>I sold mine when I went full frame and now I bought a 7D. Should have kept it. To me the lens is a special purpose lens. As Jim said above the lens shined at F7 F11 but you have to understand when you pixel peep on such of a wide lens, you think it's not sharp. How about letting us see a sample so we can help you better? With a super wide lens you must nail your metering too this is why some of your pictures are darker than others. BTW start using some manual settings as well. Place the lens at F8 and ISO high enough to get a 50 on the shutter speed. Good luck. v/r Buffdr </p>

<p>I've been happy with my 10-22 (other than what I had to pay for it). I've never used auto ISO, didn't even remember that was in there. If you don't like what auto ISO does, maybe you shouldn't use it.</p>

<p>Check AF accuracy.</p>

<p>With any of these ultrawides, it absolutely crucial to watch the focus points to make sure that the lens/camera is choosing what you want. I can't tell if that could be your problem, but it was certainly mine when I started using one of these.</p>

<p>Of course, they also have great depth of field, but when I first got my ultrawide, I was appalled at how poor the focus was until I discovered that it was the focuser or at least the operator not paying attention to what was actually being selected (a close up table corner, for example, as opposed to the people several more meters away). Until you're used to watching closely, it may be best to set the center point or some such.</p>

Sounds like at least some of the problem is poor metering techneque, there can be a lot of sky in a ultra wide shot that will

confuse the camera meter and cause the dark images you experience, use exposure lock, manual metering or exposure

compensation to take control of the camera.

 

As noted if you leave autofocus pint selection to the camera this can be problematic with any lens, choose what focus

point to use again take control of the camera.

 

Final although the 10-22 can be reasonably sharp wide open no ultrawide for an SLR will give sharp results in the corners

untill well stopped down, again take control of the camera set apature priority or manual and shoot around f11 if you can

for best results.

 

If shooting handheld make sure the shutter speed does not get so low you get camera shake, at least 1/50 at 22mm.

 

Try all this first, microfocus adjustment should not be criticle with this lens.

<p>Are you stopping down with it. At 10mm the aperture is wide open at f/3.5. I would stop down to about f/5.6 and see if that helps. A wide angle at f/3.5 will cause soft edges. I had the lens and it produced great results for me; my only problem was that I never used it, so I eventually sold it to get a 17-40mm L. </p>

<p>My 10-22 is sharp —as sharp as I'd expect a SWA to be— except when shooting handheld 1/15 sec wide open.</p>

<p>Gary,</p>

<p>The 50mm f/1.8 and every version of the 70-200mm lens are all <em>quite</em> sharp lenses, and the 18-55 is pretty sharp itself. The 10-22 by comparison is not <strong>quite</strong> as sharp; this is a simple fact. The 10-22 gets reviewed as sharp because it is sharp <strong>for an ultrawide</strong>; the Tokina 11-16mm is sharper in the corners, but the 10-22 isn't bad.</p>

<p> <br>

 

<p dir="ltr">Do a controlled test (tripod, MLU, MF, static subject, multiple FL and apertures etc.) and post the results.</p>

<p dir="ltr">Happy shooting,</p>

<p dir="ltr">Yakim.</p>

 

<p></p>

<p dir="ltr"> </p>

</p>