Bleaching small areas of a print -- what to use?

I rarely bleach anything on a print but tried it yesterday on a small linear detail of medium density. (Seagull G, grade 2) I wanted to bleach it out to match the sky which was virtually pure white. No matter how strong I mixed my solution of potassium ferrocyanate it wouldn't quite bleach it out. Then, regardless of refixing and a long wash, there remains the slightest hint of yellow. I use this chemical because I have a big bottle of it and somebody said this was the way to go at a workshop I took once. What does this better and/or faster and/or without the stain? Thoughts I had were to try diluted drugstore iodine or maybe household bleach. As always, thanks in advance for your knowledge. Whatever chemical I use I promise not to spill it on Delicate Arch.

Kevin:

 

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I have used iodine a number of times for bleaching prints using

Ilford MG FB. If you use it straight, it will definitely turn it

paper base white. If you dilute it a whole lot (only 2 or 3 ml per

liter), you can use it to slightly enhance the highlights. It works

good, but it does take a little experimentation to figure out the

exact dilution that works best for you.

Kevin,

I tried bleaching some prints with the part a of sepia toner which is

just really solution of potassium ferric. and they were very stained

really bad. I recently tried bleaching some prints in nonstaining

print bleach (the formula listed in Darkroom Cookbook)and wet they

seemed clean so you may try that. I dont have the formula right here

but maybe some one else will post it.-J

Kevin (and Josh),

Bleaching and reducer shouldn't be misunderstood. Farmer reducer, the

ferricyanide formula (not ferro...), and iodine will both wash out

developed silver from paper and film. The same ferricyanide, when

added to potassium bromide or similar, will actually transform

metallic silver into silver halide again, making it possible

redevelopment or toning processes. Farmer reducer isn't the best

option for radical moves, but can do wonders if you don't try to

speed things too much. Iodine works faster and deeper, and can do a

clean job if followed by refixing. Play safe and don't change names!

Good luck.

 

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Cesar B.

It seems to me that it is important to re-fix the print just prior to

bleaching, otherwise you will have less bleaching action and more

staining. If I find the print turning yellow from too much

ferricyanide, I immediately apply some fix and it usually takes the

color out. Also, you shouldn't leave the bleach on longer than a few

seconds before washing it off. I have some tips on selective

bleaching on my site at:

 

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href="http://unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Printing/printing.html">http:/

/unblinkingeye.com/Articles/Printing/printing.html</a>

 

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Also, in "Lootens on Photographic Enlarging and Print Quality" (1946)

there is a helpful paragraph on page 91: "If any stain remains in the

print after washing and fixing, immerse it in a 5% Sodium bisulphite

bath before the final wash. (Sodium sulphite or Potassium

metabisulphite will also do.) This may remove all traces of

discoloration. However, if yellow or red stains persist, wash the

print thoroughly and let dry. Then, bleach it in the Chromium

Intensifier and redevelop in ordinary developer. This last treatment

will usually eliminate all reducing stains, although the print may

become slightly warmer in tone."

Try the BLIX bath from an E6 or C-41 kit. It washes out a lot easier

and cleaner than ferricyanide. Last time I used ferricyanide bleach on

a print, it took 12 hours to wash the stain out. If you want to make

up a BLIX bath from raw chemicals it's Disodium

ethylene-diamine-tetra-acetic acid (EDTA, disodium salt), and sodium

thiosulphate (hypo). The proportions aren't that critical, about 50gm

of each to a litre of water should do.

Kevin,

 

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I have had good results with Spot Off. It is an A/B solution bleach

from the same folks that market Spot Tone. You can probably order it

from Brandless/Kalt or any dealer that orders from them. It�s easy to

work with, you can speed it up or slow it down by changing the ratio

of A solution to B solution and if the directions are followed I�ve

never had a problem with staining.

 

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Good luck,

 

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Joe