Best way to keep large, stand-mounted softboxes from losing their tilt-angle?

<p>I have two large softboxes, an extra-large 54" x 72" Photoflex LiteDome, and a 5' Profoto RFi Octa. Although I plan to buy some Einstein E640s for use with these, my current monolights, a Dynalite Uni400 Jr., and a Speedotron Force 10, have tension-only (as opposed to saw-toothed) tilt brackets, with baby receivers. I happen to be using Matthews' Beefy Baby rolling steel stands for these (a.k.a. "Hollywood Baby Jr." stands).</p>

<p>I'm wondering what's the best way to keep these strobes' tilt brackets from slipping? I was thinking of just attaching a 40" extension arm to a Cartellini clamp on the light stand with another 20" extension arm as a support. I'm not sure what else I could use to "hold up" the softbox, or at which point, and to what, would I attach to the top of the softbox (if I were to support it from the top instead of the bottom), without damaging it.</p>

<p>Now, if I were dropping these down from a boom (which I'm not), I could use a baby pin, dropped vertically from a grip head, but it's just more convenient to have these on rolling floor stands for the moment.</p>

<p>Any ideas? What does everyone else do?</p>

<p>Well, I couldn't figure anything out that made sense, so I just put my Matthews mini-boom on top of the stand with a grip head on the end of the boom, then dropped a baby pin through it (vertically, pointing downward), onto which, I attached the strobe's baby receiver. More cumbersome than I'd like, but at least there's no droop anymore.</p>

<p>Ralph, I would use a 20 or 40" extension arm with a grip head/baby pin attached to lthe ight. I dont have a problem with them slipping indoors even with a 7' octa. However, if the problem is the light tilt bracket is slipping, I would find the angle I wanted the box, then slide the extension arm back til the lower part of the box rested against the the stand vertical shaft. That might relieve enough weight to keep it from slipping or prevent much movement. I agree on the rolling stands, they allow precise placement of shadows/highlights and even inexperienced assistants can easily move them. I have a shoot tomorrow with the 5 foot octa and will take a photo of what I am thinking might help. </p>

<p>double post</p>

<p>Hi Ralph, I've used counterweights made for this purpose; unfortunately I can't source them for you. I thought they were Elinchrome items, but don't see them listed anywhere.</p>

<p>Basically they are rods with a cylindrical weight on one end. You put it through the umbrella fitting which most lightheads/monolights seem to have. The weight, about 5-6 pounds, sticks nearly a foot out opposite the softbox.</p>

<p>These have done a really good job with Photogenic mono units and a moderate-size softbox, maybe 3x4 feet. It gets the weight more centered on the light stand, so you don't have to worry about a rolling stand getting dumped over so easily.</p>

<p>Sorry I can't find a source, but maybe your lighting supplier will know something if you describe them. </p>

<p>I like that counterweight idea, Bill! And that's a very easy thing to DIY. Which I'm going to do! Thanks.</p>

<p>They're extremely easy to DIY. I made my own, years ago.</p>

<p>This is handy:<br>

http://www.cameraking.co.uk/Manfrotto+172+Mini+Counterweight+1.3+Kg.html</p>

Chimera makes an attachment that screws onto their metal speedrings, and the base section fits into a C-stand grip

head. Both the softbox (Photoflex boxes fit the Chimera speedrings) and the flash are supported by the speedring. With

big softboxes this works far better than relying on a flash head tilt mount.

 

Here is a link: http://m.bhphotovideo.com/mobile/detail?R=71213_REG&

Also consider the Matthews Studio Equipment Magic Finger.

Nothing called a "magic finger" is getting within 10 yards of my studio. I have enough trouble saying "super clamp" with a

straight face.

<p>Ralph, the Dynalite looks like it's got a brolly hole through the tilt mechanism. Why not use a length of 1/4" diameter rod with a counterweight hung off it? (Not sure if this is what previous posters were suggesting or not)</p>

<p>However the Speedotron doesn't look as if it's got anything handy to hang a c/weight from. Maybe a bungee strap could be hooked down to the stand base from the back of it?</p>

<p>Hey, thanks for eveyone's helpful suggestions! Since my lighting experience is mostly drawn from dealing with grip and lighting equipment designed for film/TV, this problem caught me by surprise, and an adequate solution wasn't immediately apparent. Certainly, in film/TV we also use large softboxes, but the associated grip and particular lighting instrument hardware is usually robust enough to tighten with enough force so that the unit doesn't tilt.</p>

<p>A while back, I took my Speedotron Force 10, and my 54" x 72" Photoflex softbox on one of my first commercial assignments. To my embarrassment, the softbox continued to tilt past its intended direction as I worked. Somehow, I got through the shoot anyway. Now, it's less of an issue with the Speedotron monolight, since that will largely be dedicated to on-location applications only, using a either 22" beauty dish, or a silk as a modifier (supported by a separate stand).</p>

<p>But since my large modifiers will be mostly restricted to studio use (with my yet-to-be-purchased Einstein E640s), I'll need to determine a solution specific to the E640's tilt bracket.</p>

<p>Bob said:</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>. . . However, if the problem is the light tilt bracket is slipping, I would find the angle I wanted the box, then slide the extension arm back til the lower part of the box rested against the the stand vertical shaft . . .</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Yes, it's the monolight's tilt bracket that's slipping. I did find a rather tidy solution, at least for the Dynalite head--I simply hung the unit upside-down, and the bracket's own hard-stop restricts its tilt at a conveniently, near-perfect angle (any further angle adjustment may be had by adjusting the boom angle).</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/studio460/tilt1.jpg" alt="" /></p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/studio460/tilt2.jpg" alt="" /></p>

The Chimera grip head adapter and aluminum speedrings mounted in a grip head is the solution I use for medium and

large softboxes (48" and up). Including with Einsteins, as well as with Broncolor, Dynalite, Elinchrom, and Profoto flash

heads.

 

It's just the strongest solution I've found and the grips (not photo assistants) I've worked with approve.

<p>Ellis said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>The Chimera grip head adapter and aluminum speedrings mounted in a grip head is the solution I use for medium and large softboxes (48" and up).</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Aha! The magic bullet! Supporting the rig from the speedring makes perfect sense. The adapter's dual grip-head friendly rods are genius! I knew someone would know a better way! Thanks Ellis!!!</p>

<p>Chimera 3770 Universal Grip head Adapter $42.35); manufacturer's site:</p>

<p>http://chimeralighting.com/Products/Parts-and-Lighting-Grip/Lighting-Grip</p>

<p>B+H product description:</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71213-REG/Chimera_3770_Stand_Adapter_Universal.html</p>

<p>Ah, I posted the wrong link . . . I would need the Chimera model 3700 bracket instead (not the 3770) for use with Chimera QR speedrings:</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/search?Ntt=chimera+3700&N=0&InitialSearch=yes&sts=ma&Top+Nav-Search=</p>

<p><img src="http://studio460.com/studio460/chimeraqr1.jpg" alt="" /><br /> Chimera 2160QR speedring for Dynalite.</p>

<p>Although, I hope just two points of attachment are enough to support an extra-large softbox, and a heavy monolight like the Speedotron Force 10. Do they supply the nuts and bolts with the product, or do you have to supply them yourself?</p>

<p>Ellis said:</p>

<blockquote>

<p>Chimera makes an attachment that screws onto their metal speedrings, and the base section fits into a C-stand grip head.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>I didn't even notice your earlier post and included link at first. Thank you, Ellis! The Chimera 3700 grip-head adapter, I would consider, an <em>essential</em> piece of grip for any well-equipped studio.</p>

I'm pretty sure it will Ralph: you have four pairs of threaded attachment points.

<p>Thanks, Ellis. Four points of attachment? Do they include the necessary hardware? Now, I'm thinking to return my Profoto RFi speedrings and get Chimera QR speedrings instead so that they're compatible with the Chimera 3700 bracket. Aren't Profoto RFi softbox pins the same diameter as Photoflex' pins? There's no reason that Profoto RFi 5' Octa's pins shouldn't also fit into a Chimera Octaplus speedring, right?</p>

<p>Actually, I would be using the Profoto RFi 5' Octa with an Einstein E640. So, I would hope that the Profoto octa's pins would fit into a Chimera Octaplus 2520OP speedring for Paul C. Buff monolights:</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/354855-REG/Chimera_2520OP_Octaplus_Speed_Ring_for.html.</p>

<p>Then, I believe I would need the Chimera 3770 adapter to mate with the Chimera Octaplus speedring:</p>

<p>http://www.bhphotovideo.com/c/product/71213-REG/Chimera_3770_Stand_Adapter_Universal.html</p>

<p>Nope. Profoto RFi pins are smaller in diameter than Photoflex pins. I guess Photoflex, Westcott, Elinchrom, etc. pins are 8mm, whereas, Profoto pins are 7mm?</p>

<p>Bill said:</p>

 

<blockquote>

<p>Hi Ralph, I've used counterweights made for this purpose; unfortunately I can't source them for you . . . Basically they are rods with a cylindrical weight on one end. You put it through the umbrella fitting which most lightheads/monolights seem to have. The weight, about 5-6 pounds, sticks nearly a foot out opposite the softbox.</p>

</blockquote>

<p>Thanks, Bill! This looks like another viable solution, especially since my Profoto softbox rods don't really fit other manufacturers' speedring receivers. I've been trying to source something similar for something else. Let us know if anyone finds something suitable.</p>

The smaller pin diameter of the RFi rod ends mean you should have no problems using them in the Chimera speedrings.

<p>Sorry about no photo Ralph, was to shoot new lady friend and we didnt get around to shooting. I currently store a 7 foot acta with a threaded stud into the 9th hole in a speed ring and the whole thing on a stand rolling the face of the octa against a wall, and therefore not taking up too much space. The speedring isnt threaded but it stays in place. I dont understand the attachment above but it looks way more secure and could be a permanent attachent to the stand then just clip in the light. Do I need to purchase the mfgr's speed ring to use it and I dont understand how it attaches to the speedring or stand.</p>