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Hi all,

 

In the early 80's I took and developed B&W for the school newspaper and

yearbook. Recently, I am getting back into photography and have noticed the

names have changed as well as some new arrivals in the B&W film scene. Does

anyone have any suggestions for a particular film? I used to use Tri-x and

Plus-x. My main goal will be mostly daylight pictures. Comments and opinions

would be appreciated. (I will be paying to have them developed btw)

 

Oscar

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After getting back into B&W after 20 or so years, I have

found that Tri-x has changed in two ways:

 

It now uses a 'tablet'-type grain structure for easier

scanning to digital.

 

I believe the new designation for processing is called

'chromogenic', that is, your local one-hour film service

can now use their colour chemistry to develop.

 

Please correct me if I am wrong. Not sure about modern Plus-x.

Check out: apug.org for more info.

 

/Clay

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Welcome back, to B&W film.

 

You'll love the latest versions of Kodak's: Plus-X & Tri-X; along with T-MAX (TMX 100). They look better than even in D-76 1:1 IMO.

 

Ilford's FP4+ & HP5+; along with Delta 100 & 400 other great ones too.

 

Also, you've got two great films to choose from Fuji. The Acros 100 and Neopan 400.

 

If you can find on Adorama or BH Photo, try and get a hold of some Agfa APX 100. Agfa went out of business a couple of years ago.

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Bruce, Tri-x and Plus-x still use normal B&W chemicals, if you try and develop them in color chemistry, you'll end up with a clear negative (the bleach will remove all the silver). Kodak BW400CN and Ilford XP2 are the only B&W films that use color chemistry. 'New' Tri-x (TX400) is slightly less grainy, and is a little nicer than the 'old' tri-x (TX), but overall, they are very similar. As far as I know, in Plus-x hasn't changed recently.
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I realized I should say I might be wrong about Plus-x. I haven't been around long enough to experience the change from old to new tri-x, aside from buying rolls on ebay. I should also add that the chromogenic films (yes, you used the right term, wrong film Bruce :) are extremely nice, you should give them a shot and see what you think.
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Thank you Franklin.

My darkroom stuff has been in storage for last three

years after a move. Haven't souped any film myself for

quite a while. Got confused reading latest reports on film as

it is today. Good news is China is making film now. They still

make radio tubes, once they start, they never stop. So we

will have film forever.

 

/Clay

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<i>It now uses a 'tablet'-type grain structure for easier scanning to digital.</i><p>

Nope. Tri-X is conventional. You might be thinking of T-Max.<p>

It scans just fine.<p>

It uses good old ordinary developers.

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Thank you too, Pico.

I have 5 rolls Tri-x professional to soup.

Time to unpack darkroom. Do have enlarger set up now.

Think I still have some old Tri-x in bulk-loader in freezer.

Will compare and get back to you all.

p.s. I used to us Microdal-x developer. That still

around ? Your are right about the T-Max.

 

/Clay

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I used Tri-X for some time, but have in recent years moved to FP4+, which is a somewhat different film as far as results go. I find that it offers a wonderful range of results depending on which developer and dilution you choose, and that I can get a result that fits *most* subjects with this one film and a small selection of developers. It has a wide exposure latitude and performs well in most conditions and with any developer you can find.

 

If you could suggest the type of photography you were interested in, it might help narrow the responses a bit - despite the numerous, and often vociferous, chicken littles, there is quite a range of films to choose from these days.

 

- Randy

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If you really must pay someone else to develop it for you, then you need to stick with the chromogenic films like Ilford XP2 and Kodak BW400CN. The sad reality is that precious few labs these days know the slightest thing about developing genuine B&W film.
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My main picture taking will be day time. Typically I anticipate a mix of buildings with an occasional venture into nature. When I go out shooting, I carry at least two cameras (recently acquired an auto focus Pentax) as well as manual Me Super and ZX-M Pentax. I typically put color in the auto and B&W in the manual. As for developing, we have a local shop that develops B&W when someone brings it in.

 

Oscar

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Oscar, My personal film is Verichrome Pan in 120 format. I have used Tri-x in 400 and in Professional form ISO 320 in 120 format. I try shooting T-Max in 100 and 400 but that Tri-x has a bit more latitude in processing and printing. I process Tri-x in D-76 1:1 and T-max in it own developer.
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