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AI servo or One shot focus problem


geraint_hughes

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<p>Hi guys again, im noticing that my shots are simply not sharp enough, the gear im using is good gear for example canon 50d, tamron 17-55 2.8, canon 70-200 2.8.IS. I noticed as im looking around the forum that Nadine had wrote to someone else who posted a question that he had been shooting a wedding and when he got home he was dissapointed that many of his pics were not really sharp! and she wrote about using the AI servo was a big no no, that he should of been using ONE shot. Well im hoping this is my problem so its an easy fix as my 50d is always on AI SERVO. as when i first watched a video reguarding the 50d it stated that AI servo was the best to keep the camera. Im simply a bit nervus as my first wedding is coming up and this is now the only issue i got, as ive been noticing the same with my pics is that they are not really sharp and sometimes way way to soft. I realise that 8x10 and smaller they might be passable but thats besides the point, im using good gear and these shots should be much better.Hope someone can help with this as i dont want it to be a problem on the big day with all the different shots ill be taken, I.E groups etc. I ve also noticed that at 200mm on my 70-200 the shots are way to soft also.<br>

thx guys for you help</p>

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<p>Uh, if you don't understand the basics, it will be very difficult to shoot events/weddings effectively. These assigments are among the most taxing for the photographer.</p>

<p>My recommendation: Never use AI Focus. It refocuses if you change the framing, resulting in unsharp pictures. I always use One Shot as the depth-of-field stays where it belongs. Only for moving subjects I use AI Servo.</p>

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<p>Exactly as Beuh pointed out!<br>

I only use the AI Focus for action (moving) shots, otherwise my 50D is on one shot.<br>

If I were you . . . I would be doing some serious practicing/experimenting!<br>

Hope you have some experience with flash and lighting use!</p>

 

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<p>I am a sports shooter and also do high school senior portraits. Naturally I use the AI when tracking a play or player but for stationary targets, the one shot focus is the way to go. Are you sure you are ready for a wedding? I am amazed at part time photographers that are willing to take on a wedding. Maybe you are a full time photographer, but if this is your first wedding, I hope you have at least been a second shooter a min of 6 times. I have been asked to do weddings, and have declined. My honest response is I can't do a wedding because I have never done a wedding. That may sound strange but this wedding stuff is not for the faint of heart. I may get into doing weddings at some point, but like I mentioned, a minimum of 6 second shooter assignments. I guess some people see the prices professional photographers get and want a piece of that pie. As a wise man once said, "if you think hiring a professional is exspenive, wait till you see what it cost to hire an amateur."</p>
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<p>Are the images not sharp because they are blurry from subject movement or from not being in focus? If you can find a sharp plane in your image, it is probably the latter. If you can't find any place in your image that is sharp, it is probably the former, but not always.</p>

<p>As for me saying, 'use One Shot'--that is correct, and I repeat it. With semi-professional gear such as the 50D, focus accuracy is just not all that great in dim light, such as we wedding photographers face in churches. With AI Servo (also--NEVER use AI Focus for wedding processionals) you also don't get focus assist from the flash unless you are in One Shot.</p>

<p>Now, some people do use AI Servo with semi-pro cameras, and find it works for them. These people are also shooting multiples of each person or couple in the processional. This is how AI Servo works--as it follows the subject, sometimes it is going to be in focus, and sometimes not, so shooting multiples will ensure you get a few sharp shots.</p>

<p>I am completely old school when it comes to processional shots. I started out with film and manual focus, and I only shot one frame of each person or couple, and maybe 3 of the bride and dad. Each one had to be in focus. I used a pre focus technique. Back then, I also didn't use zooms. So I knew what to set the focus on the lens to for a full length subject in my viewfinder. I just set it and shot. Worked every time. Still does. But zooms complicate things, and autofocus does too.</p>

<p>So now, I use a method I credit to Marc Williams, who posts in the wedding forum a lot. Keep the camera in One Shot. Be sure your focus assist is working. "Exercise" the shutter button/lens focus by focusing on something close to where you anticipate shooting the subject as they walk down the aisle. Have your shot framed as you want. What this does is get the lens 'moved' to close to where it has to be to be 'in focus' on the subject, so that when you press the shutter button fully (do not stop and half press) to take the shot, it doesn't have to move much.</p>

<p>I personally use the center focus point (again, semi-pro cameras don't have the same accuracy with the outer focus points) and put it on the bride's bouquet. Nice, contrasty target close to center.</p>

<p>If you are getting blurry shots from too slow a shutter speed, or not getting shutter drag right, that is a whole different thing.</p>

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  • 4 weeks later...
<p>Just picked up this thread. I think the most important point is buried deep in the previous response. So many people don't select their focus point but rather let the camera select any of the 9 it can. Select either center only or when shooting still portraits the one closest to what you want in focus and recompose after the focus is locked in.</p>
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