a query re dr summicron

Hello, just want to take some advice from you. I have the opportunity to buy an M3 with summicron dr 50mm lens. The camera is fine, cosmetically good. Speeds seem fine. The shutter curtains look good. Everything I've tried on the camera works. The dr lens has spotty coating, one peripheral scratch, and three small patches of clouding, about 1mm each - to the edge of the lens (does not appear to me to be fungus). The attachment is clean, optically and cosmetically. Focussing works, with bright focussing spots. I've done the mandatory search on eprey, and it looks good price wise ($1500 AU; probably about $2000 US, given the exchange rate). Sound ok?. What else should I look for? So, any recommendations? Thanks in advance, Arthur (apiarist1)

Until you put a roll through it you’ll not be able to confirm the shutter is light tight.

 

Is the camera a single stroke or dual stroke?

 

Is the serial number over 910,000-920,000 or so? They’re all “old”, but just curious how far along in the production run that one was.

 

The lens sounds iffy to me and someone, some day will try and ding you on it if/when you try to sell it. The price seems close to right if the lens was in good shape and the body is a later production unit, and the setup work well, produces good negatives.

Did you check flash sync? Will you get a Leica to Prontor Compur adapter with the M3? How bright is the "bright" focusing spot? M6 bright, digiral M, bright or just brighter than *insert nightmare*? - The latter is the case with my (user beater) M3.

You seem going to spend a lot(!) of money. Is it worth doing so? (Rich people need convenient chances to part from their cash too!) Ask yourself if you can sustain the film infrastructure, to enjoy your purchase. Dropping down on two rolls per year (after the warm up brick) doesn't look justifying the investment to me.

If you feel able and likely to shoot more, go ahead. But film has to be your thing; otherwise I'd recommend to go digital (even with Leica)

 

I'm having issues with the lens, as described, too. Of course you'll need something to shoot with and for that purpose it might do well enough. OTOH: DR crons don't go on digital Ms; so it might be harder to resell than anything else. Some folks go Leica for the glass' sake and would prefer something in better shape. Body cosmetics don't take pictures.

I would be more concerned about the lens then the rest of a camera. The clouding or haze could be mold, but not good. A small scratch is not too big a deal, but it should lower the price. I'd be more worried that the haze is actually etched into the glass coatings and then you have bigger issues. I think you can find better example of the lens out there. Have you tried posting this to a repair person who works on Leica's and lenses.

White spots can also be de-lamination between cemented elements, which would be a no-go for me. De-lamination can also occur between elements of the rangefinder. This can have the appearance of spider web cracks in the rangefinder window and frame outlines. Vertical alignment in the rangefinder is fairly common, but easily adjusted by a competent technician.