jake_miller Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 I have only been shooting for a little while, but i would like to get into flash photography more..especially for skateboarding/bmx/rollerblading. I have been told that 1/200(I plan on getting an canon A2) is not fast enough to freeze the action on a sunny day. My question is, when would it be fast enough/ how dark would it have to be like sunset? The Canon Eos 1 is out of my budget, and i dont know if i want to get the Canon 620(it may have a 1/250 x- sync, but the A2 is said to be a much more solid camera) Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Jerry_ Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 A Nikon F5 will sync at 1/300 (as a option) and is 1/250 standard. Without knowing what lens you plan on using, it is not easy to guess what results you will get with 'faster' sync speeds. Using ISO 400 film (or ISO 800) you should be good with 1/200 if you pre-focus on a spot and when the subject arrives, shoot the image. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
richard_cochran Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 The secret to action photography with flash is that you don't use the shutter speed to stop action at all. Instead you use the flash, which is much, much faster. And in case someone chimes in about HSS, remember that to freeze action, you always use X-sync, never "FP" or "High Speed" sync. See <a href="http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hss.html">http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hss.html</a>. <p> This means that your shutter sync speed doesn't need to be fast enough to stop action, but it does need to be fast enough to reduce the ambient light that enters the camera to a level significantly lower than your flash output, so as to avoid ghost images from the ambient light. What's "fast enough" depends on the flash output, flash-to-subject distance, and amount of ambient light present. <p> The difference between 1/200 and 1/250 is pretty small, a fraction of a stop. You can make up for it with a tiny increase in flash output, or by placing your flash about 10% closer for the 1/200 shutter speed than you would have used for the 1/250 speed. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_miller Posted August 25, 2005 Author Share Posted August 25, 2005 If i were to get a new canon body, i would get a 50mm 1.8 lens, and i would most likely be using a Vivi' 285... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ransomsix Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 Shutter speed does indeed have an impact on flash photography, especially in sunny day situations. 1/200th isn't horrible, but 1/250th is more ideal. 1/500th is even better, but you need to step to a medium format body or a digi like a D70 to get that. Almost all action sports photography is done using fill flash, and you are correct in assuming that you want the fastest shutter sync speed you can get. Most of us are using cameras that sync at a minimum of 1/250th. A few of the bodies I shoot with sync at 1/500th of a second. Shooting with Velvia, that allows me to be at about 5.6 1/2 or f 8 in bright sun. On most fisheyes (an important lens in skate and BMX) that's the sharpest range. If you're shooting at 1/200th, the problem is you're going to need to be at a higher apeture, and thus use your flash at a higher power. On most flashes the duration of the burst is slower at higher powers, and thus your photos tend to end up with motion in them. 1/250 or 1/500 is going to stop a lot of action in itself, allow you to obtain an optimum apeture, and an optimum flash duration. I would suggest getting a camera with a 1/250 x-sync. You will need it if you plan to do action at a high level of quality. The Vivitar 285 is probably the best flash for the money for action photography. It keeps a short flash duration at full power. That and the Sunpak 555 are probably the most popular action flashes these days, especially for slaves. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ransomsix Posted August 25, 2005 Share Posted August 25, 2005 Apeture should read aperture of course. Too much coffee. Also keep this thought in mind. If your shutter is open for say 1/200th and your flash fires for 1/1000th, it's stopping the action but there is still some room for motion blur on either side of the flash firing. Not much, but you want the sharpest photo possible, thus the relationship between quick flash duration, and fast shutterspeeds. Motion blur can work to your advantage sometimes, but action sports are very strict about sharp photos. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
jake_miller Posted August 25, 2005 Author Share Posted August 25, 2005 Many people in the Canon EOS forum said better things about the A2 when i asked them what i should get(i asked, A2 or 620?) I want to ask for a new body for x-mas but i really dont have that much money, my reason for going canon is the fact that i have a canon EF zoom lense...(75-300) but if there is a nikon substitute that does just what i want for the money...than i guess that could work too...(one person said they liked there nikon 8080) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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