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1/200 x-sync


jake_miller

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I have only been shooting for a little while, but i would like to get

into flash photography more..especially for

skateboarding/bmx/rollerblading. I have been told that 1/200(I plan

on getting an canon A2) is not fast enough to freeze the action on a

sunny day. My question is, when would it be fast enough/ how dark

would it have to be like sunset? The Canon Eos 1 is out of my budget,

and i dont know if i want to get the Canon 620(it may have a 1/250 x-

sync, but the A2 is said to be a much more solid camera) Thanks

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A Nikon F5 will sync at 1/300 (as a option) and is 1/250 standard.

Without knowing what lens you plan on using, it is not easy to guess what results you will get with 'faster' sync speeds. Using ISO 400 film (or ISO 800) you should be good with 1/200 if you pre-focus on a spot and when the subject arrives, shoot the image.

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The secret to action photography with flash is that you don't use the

shutter speed to stop action at all. Instead you use the flash, which

is much, much faster. And in case someone chimes in about

HSS, remember that to freeze action, you always use X-sync,

never "FP" or "High Speed" sync. See <a href="http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hss.html">http://webs.lanset.com/rcochran/flash/hss.html</a>.

<p>

This means that your shutter sync speed doesn't need to be fast enough

to stop action, but it does need to be fast enough to reduce the

ambient light that enters the camera to a level significantly lower

than your flash output, so as to avoid ghost images from the

ambient light. What's "fast enough" depends on the

flash output, flash-to-subject distance, and amount of ambient light

present.

<p>

The difference between 1/200 and 1/250 is pretty small, a fraction

of a stop. You can make up for it with a tiny increase in

flash output, or by placing your flash about 10% closer for

the 1/200 shutter speed than you would have used for the 1/250

speed.

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Shutter speed does indeed have an impact on flash photography, especially in sunny day

situations. 1/200th isn't horrible, but 1/250th is more ideal. 1/500th is even better, but

you need to step to a medium format body or a digi like a D70 to get that.

 

Almost all action sports photography is done using fill flash, and you are correct in

assuming that you want the fastest shutter sync speed you can get. Most of us are using

cameras that sync at a minimum of 1/250th. A few of the bodies I shoot with sync at

1/500th of a second. Shooting with Velvia, that allows me to be at about 5.6 1/2 or f 8 in

bright sun. On most fisheyes (an important lens in skate and BMX) that's the sharpest

range. If you're shooting at 1/200th, the problem is you're going to need to be at a higher

apeture, and thus use your flash at a higher power. On most flashes the duration of the

burst is slower at higher powers, and thus your photos tend to end up with motion in

them. 1/250 or 1/500 is going to stop a lot of action in itself, allow you to obtain an

optimum apeture, and an optimum flash duration.

 

I would suggest getting a camera with a 1/250 x-sync. You will need it if you plan to do

action at a high level of quality. The Vivitar 285 is probably the best flash for the money

for action photography. It keeps a short flash duration at full power. That and the Sunpak

555 are probably the most popular action flashes these days, especially for slaves.

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Apeture should read aperture of course. Too much coffee. Also keep this thought in mind. If

your shutter is open for say 1/200th and your flash fires for 1/1000th, it's stopping the

action but there is still some room for motion blur on either side of the flash firing. Not

much, but you want the sharpest photo possible, thus the relationship between quick flash

duration, and fast shutterspeeds. Motion blur can work to your advantage sometimes, but

action sports are very strict about sharp photos.

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Many people in the Canon EOS forum said better things about the A2 when i asked them what i should get(i asked, A2 or 620?) I want to ask for a new body for x-mas but i really dont have that much money, my reason for going canon is the fact that i have a canon EF zoom lense...(75-300) but if there is a nikon substitute that does just what i want for the money...than i guess that could work too...(one person said they liked there nikon 8080)
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