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Nikon F Photomic FTn questions


lukpac

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I had them develop about 10 rolls of slide film a few months ago, and they were mounted in cardboard frames. I prefer the cardboard, since I can wrote notes on them.

 

Thanks-I can handle either fine-I just prefer paper, but can understand writing notes. I know that certainly helps a lot when I'm looking through old family slides, and am always glad when I find them on ones other people took-a lot of older mounts even had one or two lines inked onto them for notes.

 

One of my big complaints about my local lab is that they don't do ANY imprinting on the mount. At least when I last used Dwayne's, they would emboss a month, year, and frame number into mount, which is fine. The long-closed local lab I use to use did plastic, but printed the full date of processing and the frame number on the mount. The lab I'm using now actually mounts by hand, and the reason I was given was that their mounting machine was meant for paper mounts and they can only get plastic-of course the two mounting machines are incompatible since plastic mounts get "snapped" together while paper are "ironed". Also, paper mount machines usually emboss while plastic machines print in ink.

 

I've actually thought of buying my own slide mounting machine, and I've looked at a few on Ebay but I've been confused as to just what exactly I needed. They seem to be cheap enough, though.

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The F2S, F2SB, and F2AS also lack a battery check. They work the same way as the FM-if you flip them on and something lights up, they are good to go.

 

I think the little 1/3N battery(and to get overly pendantic, it is a battery and not a cell-unlike the LR44, etc) works in the F2 also. I should get some of them-I have enough FM-type cameras and they are handy for those.

 

Why battery and not cell? Unlike some multicell packages, there is only one cell in the DL1/3N.

-- glen

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http://professional.duracell.com/downloads/datasheets/product/.../Specialty_Photo_DL13N.pdf

 

it used to be usual to call multicell packages batteries, and single cell ones cells,

but that seems not to be done anymore.

 

http://professional.duracell.com/downloads/datasheets/.../Ultra-Power_AAA_MX2400.pdf

 

In any case, the Li-MnO2 chemistry is 3 volts/cell, a convenient replacement for

two 1.5V alkaline or silver oxide cells.

-- glen

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(snip)

 

It's awfully easy to grab a digital, and as I found myself saying on a digital shoot last night, "the film is free!"

 

I try not to say that.

 

Even if there is no cost for the actual shot, there is cost later, even if it is just

the time taken to erase the file.

 

To look through them, decide some are worth enough to keep. I usually keep

everything that I don't erase immediately.

 

Well, partly it is from the film days, when I had to decide if any shot was worth the film,

and so I am still used to thinking that way. And terabyte disks are really cheap, so a lot

of pictures can be stored for a low price. Just keep enough backups.

 

When I was young, I would buy 100 foot rolls of film from Freestyle for $5.

 

Close enough to free that I didn't worry much about the cost. I did yearbook

photography in 7th and 8th grade, and took way more pictures than other YB

photographers. I also took pictures at boy scout camp, again way more than

if film was more expensive.

-- glen

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I try not to say that.

Well, in this case, no loss - it was a theatrical portrait - lots of kibbitzers - actor, Director, etc. - not sure which presentation of the actress / character they wanted. All shots came out well technically - will print what I consider best 8X10, the rest 4X5, as I have a lot of that size paper I got free. If they prefer another, I'll just print that. An annual task, pretty much the same every year, so all familiar with the process. The "free film" comment was to put the lady at ease after the eighth or tenth shot.

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