Handheld light meters?

<p>I don`t have any personal interest here... I don`t think my SBC is damaged. Mine is the Profisix SBC. I bought it decades ago, maybe in early eighties (I remember to use the SBC together with my then new Nikon F3). Looks like it works perfectly, although readings are different between them. I consider this normal.</p>

<p>While I change the CR123 from time to time on the L-608, I remember the SBC to be a fast battery eater. Maybe the ones I use are bad. These are not available everywhere around here, and are -extremely- expensive.</p>

<p>Anyway, what I wanted to point out is that the best meter is the most "usable" one. I keep the SBC just because I like it a lot, but to sincere, it remains in the drawer since I bought my first digital Minolta. The SBC is so nice, the display is unbeatable, but the Sekonics are easier and faster to use, more accurate, smaller (or at least, more ergonomical), etc.</p>

<p>The L-608 is even bigger than the SBC, but I find it more comfortable to use. To have spot metering capability in the same meter is something I`m used since the L-508 (or it was a previous model?). Never ever separate meters, or clumsy add ons.<br /> The L-208 is almost weightless, the battery comsuption is reasonable, and works quite good under "reasonable" conditions. It is the one I mostly use outdoors with my RF cameras (Leica and Mamiya). I shoot film every week. When I bought it (years ago), I was debating between this and the Gossen Digisix (the Digi flash was not released, I think). I prefered the Sekonic, cannot remember why (I think the Sekonic was easier or faster to read).</p>

<p>When I say Sekonic, I`m saying the current Gossens or Minoltas. I prefer Sekonic (I have had several meters, I try to remember my last ones (after the SBC) has been another Gossen (cannot remember which one), a Minolta IV, a IVF, a L-508? (the one before the L-608) and the "pocket" meter, the L-208.</p>

<p>I have been for several times tempted to buy a L-398, just because it`s beautiful and battery free, but I wonder about its usefulness, and I really don`t need it.</p>

<p>To make an idea of the sizes, check the pic below. I believe the Digisix is very slightly bigger than the small Sekonic (not sure), not an issue.</p>

<p>As I mentioned above, the L-608 is substantially bigger than the SBC, but even so, I prefer it. I use the L-208 a lot, simply because is ridiculously small and light, but obviously it doesn`t have the features of the bigger one (low light, memory, average, light, and of course, flash and spot). This is the reason I mostly use the small one for outdoor RF shots where I don´t need more. A L-308 (or the Gossen/Minolta equivalent) could be an intermediate good solution.</p><div></div>

I have a number of old meters I've accumulated but when I want one to use, I turn to an old Adorama spot meter I bought

years ago and a little leather holster someone made for me. It's accurate, uses 9V batteries, and allows me pretty good

control over what the picture looks like. I also use an old Luna Pro meter from decades ago with an adapter to use

modern batteries (It used mercury batteries) which works well too. Finally, I have a little Voigtlander clipon meter which is

modern and accurate and uses modern batteries and is very small. You can clip it onto a camera without a meter and

presto you have a meter equipped camera.

 

 

I have a couple of old Weston Master IVs I think that do still work and are reasonably accurate but I don't use them

anymore. They're not as accurate or as easy to use.

<p>"<em>Although a few Sekonic are acceptable meters for beginners, they come nowhere close. It's like comparing a Chevrolet and a Ferrari</em>."</p>

<p>Sorry, Paul, but that's an opinion not a fact. Funny but I know a few pros who make a living with their "beginners" Sekonic 558, 608 and 758 meters.</p>

<p>Whether you get incident or spot is pretty much what fits your mo better. Give a <em>Quality Light Metric</em> a jing and they'll tell you which meters to stay way from - they repair meters. I ended up getting digital Minolta Spot on their advise, since so many <em>analog </em>meters can be so old that parts are no longer available. Sellers most often will not tell you this.</p>

<p>Les</p>

<p>Here's another vote for Gossen. I've used three different models over the last 30 years or so: the original Luna Pro that took the 1.35v mercury cells, the Luna Pro F, and SBC. All three are excellent. The F and SBC are most practical because of their use of 9v batteries. A very useful and fairly easy to find attachment, which I strongly recommend, is the Variable Angle attachment, which narrows the measurement range to 7.5 or 15 degrees. 7.5 isn't a spot, but it's very tight and will suffice for critical reading in most instances.</p>

<p>These days, Gossen Luna Pro meters can often be picked up for reasonable sums, so even cost isn't the issue it used to be. </p>

<p>C Watson. I like the Sekonic 508/608/558 series too, and in fact I'm one of those who used one professionally with MF cameras and exposure critical slide films. Truth to tell I bought two in case one broke. Paul's comment seems uninformed.</p>

<p>Do not buy Selenium meters: they are inaccurate and have a strong "memory".<br>

Not sure where this advice comes from - I've been using a selenium cell meter for over thirty years and have always found it to be pretty accurate. Further more, I've never found it to have a memory.</p>

<p>The L-208 Twinmate feels like it is made from the same plastic they make the prize balls from, you know the ones in the gum machines. Also, they get lint and dust under the dome. They work well but the build quality has me doubting that they woul dlast a long time. I am sure there are exceptions. That's why I went with the L-398A. I hope this doesn't sound like hyperbole but it's like comparing an M3 to a disposable camera: the L-398A is made just that well.</p>

<p>But as others say, it depends on how you meter. The L-398A is not as good for low light as digital, but I guess all my low light exposures anyway. Even with slide film. Low light situations are high contrast situations where metering is not as critical. Well, that has been my experience. Virtually <strong><a href="http://www.flickr.com/photos/62496026@N03/sets/72157631964783652/">all these photos </a></strong>were shot without the use of a meter. Light in these photos varied from EV 4 to EV -4.</p>

<p>HTH</p>

<i>"I guess all my low light exposures anyway"</i><br><br>Do you really guess, or are you using your very own 'memory effect', demonstrating that it can be a good thing too?<br>;-)

You are correct, that is a more accurate way of phrasing it. When on site I compare the qualities of the scene before me

to a scene I have catalogued in my memory and expose to that scene. When switching between different films with

different reciprocity failure curves I will refer to a homemade exposure chart for that particular film. When I do this, I get a

baseline for a particular EV and film, then adjust through the night based upon experience. It's quite liberating!

<blockquote>

<p><em>"The L-208 Twinmate feels like it is made from the same plastic they make the prize balls from, you know the ones in the gum machines. Also, they get lint and dust under the dome. They work well but the build quality has me doubting that they woul dlast a long time."</em></p>

</blockquote>

<p>BTW, out of curiosity, I just compared the "feel" of the L-208 to the Profisix... to my taste they look pretty close, with the very same plasticy look. The Profisix looks more sophisticated, but not better regarding materials.<br /> <br /> The L-398A "feels" better, it is five times heavier (200 vs. 40 grams).</p>

<p>My selenium cell [no battery] "Sekonic Studio Deluxe" L-398 fits in your hand,connects you with film history and,if you don't need spot-metering ,works really well.</p>

The L-398 actually does not have a spot meter. It has incident, reflective, and weighted average. However, I thoroughly

agree with the statement about it connecting to the past and feeling good in the hand.

 

I also think it is a great to for intuiting relationships between exposure variables, including EV units, which I find

especially invaluable to know.