justin_m4 Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>Hi,<br> If you can get close enough to the action (basketball baseline in front of front row) would the canon 50mm 1.4 on a canon 7d (the 50 becomes 80mm) be a suitable lens to freeze the action .<br> Cheers<br> Justin</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
phule Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>[[be a suitable lens to freeze the action]]</p> <p>It depends on the amount of light available and the speed of the action. </p> <p> </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bjscharp Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 I've used a manual focus 21mm f4 for freezing action shots. It all depends on the light, not on the lens. That said, I think that of the three 50mm lenses currently available from Canon, the f1.4 will actually be the best for sports action, as both the f1.2 and the f1.8 have slower AF motors. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
tony_leinster Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>Kind of but, a 1.4 lens will allow you to use faster shutter speeds, by shooting wider aperture, than say a 2.8 might. However the loss of depth of field at the wider apertures may well mean you don't get sharp pictures anyway. Whatever lens you are using is better set to, for instance, somewhere between f6.3 to f11 just to maximise the chance of a sharper image. Obviously this means a slower shutter speed, however, the trump card is to raise the ISO, depending on your camera you may be able to go to ISO 1600 or 3200, to get that faster shutter speed back. You may find that the 1.4 has good DOF at lower apertures around f4 or so but try experimenting and using aperture, shutter speed AND ISO as a package to get what you want.</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Marcus Ian Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>It'll work... Keep your shutter speed high enough (I'd shoot in Tv), and, despite the antiquated AF, it <em>should</em> be fast enough...</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip_wilson Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 AF is OK but not the best, lens is soft wide open so as Tony suggests try and shoot at smaller apertures (F4 or above) Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
brian_wallace5 Posted April 10, 2012 Share Posted April 10, 2012 <p>I've used this lens quite a bit for indoor sports with pretty good results. I usually start in Av mode and set it 2.0 (as others have said, this lens is soft at 1.4 so stop it down). I look to see what my metering is and adjust the ISO until I can get to 1/500th (or ISO 3200 - whichever comes first on my 7D)<br> The AF speed isn't super but its usable. I prefer my 85 1.8 when I can use it. </p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Michael Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 <blockquote> <p>“If you can get close enough to the action (basketball baseline in front of front row)”</p> </blockquote> <p>What’s that? - about 12ft to 15 ft . . . that will make about a Loose Half Shot if players are close to the basket.<br> At that Subject Distance a 50mm lens is not really the most flexible lens for action, IMO - a 35mm would be better, in my opinion – but if the 50/1.4 is all you have: I wouldn’t open it more than F/2.2 and I don’t think you will need to, even in a school gym and the terrible lighting which is possible.<br> At F/2.2 for a Loose Half Shot you’ll have about 12” to 15” DoF<br> (I would) pump the ISO to 6400 on the 7D if necessary to make the Tv required and to keep the Av smaller than F/2.2.<br> I also have used the 50/1.4 for indoor sport, it is acceptable: give the AF all the assistance and use centre point and nail a good contrast reference.<br> Also consider that for BBall, you will likely be shooting upwards, so the ball and the player’s face is quite a distance from the chest<br> WW</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
philip_wilson Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 William this was my thinking for F4 lens is sharp at F2 or above but the bigger DOF of F4 will help given likely shooting angles Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
William Michael Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 <p>^ Yes I thought that was possibly your thinking - I was just explaining the why - the point of shooting on an angle to the Subject with a shallow DoF is often missed, especially because the singlet and the number on it is such a good AF point . . . I reckon F/4 would be good and I would again suggest sacrificing ISO (up to ISO6400 on a7D) to make the Shutter Speed and the Aperture to be safe.</p> <p>WW</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
arie_vandervelden1 Posted April 11, 2012 Share Posted April 11, 2012 <p>The answer is still the same since the last time you asked.<br> http://www.photo.net/canon-eos-digital-camera-forum/00aBJD</p> Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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