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MF system with movements?


denton_hoyer

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<p>What are your recommendations for an inexpensive entry to movements with MF? I'm experienced with LF but sold my system some time ago. I'd like to get back to using movements. Perhaps RZ system is cheap enough, but what lenses are available. Other suggestions? Cost is an issue, but not weight.<br>

Denton</p>

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<p>Horseman VH/VHR, Linhof Technika 2x3, Fuji GX680. There are some 6x9 monorails that might be interesting like the Arca Swiss. I have fount it easier to use movements on a 4x5 camera and the GX680 than on 6x9 field camera's like the Horseman.<br>

Good luck, Frank<br>

<a href="http://www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com">www.frankbunnik.zenfolio.com</a></p>

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<p>I shoot the Fuji GX680 and it has great lens movement. Unfortunately they are not that cheap. There are three generations (imaginatively called I, II and III) and they are not completely compatible (not all accessories fit all models). The lenses are great - amazing optical performance and their orphan status makes them very good value (Fuji makes the new Hassy lenses). If you can afford it the MkIII is the best buy. Be aware that there is an S version. I have never seen an S version but they do exist and they do not have front movement.</p>

<p>This link gives a very detailed review of the GX680 http://www.dannyburk.com/fuji_gx680iii.htm</p>

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<p>The S is a model without movements. Good for portraits but less for landscapes/architecture. The lenses are indeed superb. I think the GX680III is the best medium format ever made. The films is automatically rolled up to the first frame and after the last frame it winds the film up. The mirror is very well damped, better than Hasselblad. You can handhold it while using movements. What other camera can do that?</p>
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<p>Wow, that Fuji looks huge. I now regret selling my lightweight Toyo field camera. That and a roll film back and I'd be set, and weighs less too!<br>

Maybe I'd be better off with the 5D and the 24mm Tilt shift. Yes, heresy.<br>

Thanks for all the input.<br>

Denton</p>

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<p>I have to agree that the GX680III is the most complete and advanced MF system out there. The IIIN film backs even have a bar code reader that reads the paper on Fuji rolls and sets the ISO correctly every time. These are also one of the few MF cameras that have complete film edge imprinting capability (date, time, shutter, aperture, sequence). Weight is definitely there, and movements are not very effective with the 50mm lens nor any lens that requires the optional rail mount because of lens weight (e.g. 100mm-200mm zoom.) However, "the beast" is definitely capable of producing the best possible quality in MF film. Digital backs, though workable, are not very graceful with this camera. Its sync system was designed before digital, and it takes some 3rd party add-on stuff to make a digital back work. Even then, the lenses are really designed for film imaging rather than the particulars of CCD imaging.</p>

<p>I also own a Mamiya RZ67 Pro-IID along with the tilt/shift adapter. The T/S adapter is not nearly as versatile and useful as it might appear, and I have never been able to get acceptable results from it. Don't get me wrong, I love my RZ, but I've given up using the T/S adapter for movements. Just my 2-cents worth.</p>

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<p>Be aware the GX680 eats batteries and the metering system is not worth using. I went form mamiya RZ to the Fuji and do not regret it. As Barry says the 50mm lens has very limited movement but the 65mm is great and the 180 F3.2 is perhaps the best portrait lens ever made (and i own two Canon 85 F1.2s, Leica 75 F2 and the Contax G 90 F2.8). I do not have a zoom and rarely use the 250mm lens but the 65, 80, 100, 125 and 180 mm lenses are great. Be aware that this camera is not an every day use camera 9unless you only shoot in studios) While you say weight is not an issue lugging this monster around and the lenses in their neat black coffins is a pain. I often say what the hell and take my 5DII or Mamiya 645 system.</p>
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<p>I would qualify Mike's point. Old Graphics are great for some purposes, but camera movements isn't their long suit. You can often only get one or two movements at a time with a Graphic, and some useful movements (like front rise or shift) are very limited. The strengths of a Graphic are light weight, simplicity, and low cost. For some purposes, they may fit the bill, and several of us on photo.net use them for backpacking.</p>

<p>If you're serious about movements, a full-bore view camera is probably the answer, as Leigh B said. A 4 x 5 and a decent rollfilm holder could be found for maybe $400 without lens. But for rollfilm, you probably want to use shorter lenses, and that means a camera with an interchangeable bag bellows. That narrows the pack.</p>

<p>Alternatively, several 2 x 3 monorails are available second-hand, and Frank Bunnik suggested this. All will be expensive-ish except the Galvin (maybe $300 used), whch is a simple lightweight camera with a non-interchangeable bellows. You can only go down to a 65mm lens on a Galvin, but at 65mm you need a recessed lensboard (uncommon), and you have no movements. Check out <a href="http://www.largeformatphotography.info/cameras/toyo/toyo-galvin-2x3.html">this article</a> for a comparison of the Toyo and Galvin 2 x 3 monorails. You might look for a Cambo 2 x 3 as well-- they were reasonably priced when new, if I remember right.</p>

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<p>Denton, I use a Hasselblad Flexbody which has restricted movements but more than adequate for what I do. The beauty of the Flexbody is due to the cheap(ish) Hasselblad lenses that are available. I tend to use movements opposite to Scheimflug corrections, as Keith Carter does, so the limited movements are not an issue. -daniel</p>
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<p>Mamiya Super 23. It's a 6x9 rangefinder with movement on the film back but not the lens. 6x4.5, 6x6, 6x7 and polaroid backs were also produced. of course when you are using movement, the rangefinder doesn't work any more. But there is a ground glass back available, too.</p>
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