Nikon speedlights or studio lights.

<p>Hi, I have been told to get a 3 light set up.</p>

<p>I don't really use much of the flash but one thing I seem to lack is the inability to do portraiture.</p>

<p>I intend to do high key and low key portraitures and I like my images to have that glossy magazine look, blowtorch pink skin etc .. .</p>

<p>But for now I tried to do my own passport photograph. Before, 10yrs ago I got it done inside a studio, the guy used studio lights umbreallas and could of been at least one continous light too with his Nikon - might of been a F100 using film. Now; Nikon D70 vertically in commander mode with the (1 only) SB-800 above it higher pointing down with a diffuser cap - the person (me) held a white reflecting board to redirect some light up my face.</p>

<p>Didn't work out too well. Can I achieve this with my own equipment? Or do I need 3 SB's with umbrellas or am I better to go with real studio lights?</p>

<p>I'm ugly, well being a guy I didn't use cosmetics. Skin is too dark and I see all kinds of skin imperfections. Acne, blackheads the lot. Both cases I had a shave and a shower just before the shoot.</p>

<p>I think it is passable as a passport photo but I don't like it. Being stuck with it for 5yrs (now), it used to be 10yrs. Where I am many just go to the chemist and they pull down a white b/ground and snap with a digital point and shoot. </p>

<p>Thanks.</p><div></div>

<p>For passport photos? Are you serious? On camera flash with a p&s for me at home with white wall/blue cloth as back drop. What are you doing with the photos? Are you hitting on TSA members or, say, airline agents? Hmmm......</p>

<p>The SB800 is more them enough. Try to play with WB.</p>

<p>FWIW, here's a link to the <a href="http://www.travel.state.gov/passport/get/get_2081.html">official U.S. passport photo guidelines</a>. Their recommended lighting setup produces a very boring picture, but presumably it's right for the purpose.</p>

<p>Seriously? Your passport photo is supposed to look like you on your worst day...at least thats what the TSA/US Government wants.</p>

<p>Presumably this is because it's what you're going to look like after flying for 18 hours from Australia to Boston.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Ray, I think some of the responses here fail to take into account that you spoke of your passport photo experience simply to demonstrate that you feel you need to learn more and/or add equipment in order to achieve the look you desire for a variety of studio-type shots. I don't read into this that you are simply being vain about your passport photo.</p>

<p>That said, there is (obviously) a wealth of information out there. I'd start right here at PN's learning tab with the<a href="../learn/studio/primer"> article on studio photography</a>.</p>

<p>For portability, an army of Nikon's CLS speedlights is hard to beat. Lots of versatility, and the CLS system does a lot of the "thinking" for you. Also, quite an investment. If you want to play with studio strobes, you can get the feel for the craft with an inexpensive set, such as <a href="http://www.adorama.com/FPBK1.html">these from Adorama</a>.</p>

<p>I think you'll find a world of possibilities with a 2-light set-up. You can always add a third at some point.</p>

<p>Good luck!</p>

<p>AlienBees.com<br>

These are great, and very affordable. Stands and modifiers are also excellent values. For a home studio, the AB400 will be more than enough flash power.</p>

<p>I've had them for years, and couldn't be happier.</p>

<p>Check out Joe McNally's 'Hot Shoe Diaries.' All Nikon CLS. Photos with how-tos and diagrams. An easy read.</p>

<p>We had to get passports to go to Iceland last summer. I have first class Nikon gear, and two or three times as much pro lighting gear as almost any of the pro photographers in my town. I don't normally do people portraits, but still could certainly take some simple passport photos. My wife however said, "Oh, let's not set up all that stuff to take the photos. Besides, I want them done by a pro!" I rolled my eyes. She took herself & kids to the nearby pro photo studio. She told the woman who ran the cash register she was there to get three passport photos. The cashier said, "OK!" She pulled down a white rollerblind screen, got an $80 Kodak p&s camera out of a drawer, and took the shots. She then charged something like $25. ROFL! My wife's photo came out hideous. Served her right, he he! I set up my own equipment and took my own shot, thank you. At least I don't look like I just got out of jail at 5 AM or something. Anyway, there is no way you can justify spending that kind of money just to take a passport photo. Find another serious photograher or a local pro who is just staring out and give them a few bucks. If you are serious about shooting portraits beyond just your one passport shot, the Alien Bees are the way to go. The Nikon CLS flash are very expensive and don't put out quite enough light to use the better light modifiers.</p>

<p>Kent in SD</p>

<p>Just a related question. When the SB-800 is in remote mode - wireless. I set the D70 in commander mode, on the SB-800 I cannot alter the power other than the f-stop. </p>

<p>Question how do I alter the power? Is this done on the D70?<br>

Those backgrounds you can buy - if light or sun is shining at it .. light won't go thru it right? We've just been using cloths at home. </p>

<p>@Leslie, yup serious :)<br>

Over time I may get into more portraiture, like it how you can do high key and low key photographs. I will try and do it outside when there is more sun. I think some pro's here do studio sessions too even for passports.</p>

<p>When you use Nikon CLS the settings for the remote flash are done through the camera "Commander Mode" menu. You use that menu to set the flash settings for the group (this must be group A channel 3 with the D70) that the flash has been set to use. When the camera is set to Commander mode with TTL the flash intensity is set automatically by the camera, if you use Manual mode in the commander menu you can set the flash intensity from the camera menu. This site has an overview of how the system works http://www.imaging-resource.com/ACCS/NIKONCLS/NIKONCLSA.HTM</p>

<p>Oh thanks. Yeah I had it in Commander - TTL. No wonder I couldn't find it. </p>

<p>I did try to alter the flash power on the D70 but pressing the flash button which gives -3 to +1. What is that?</p>

<p>On my D70s in Commander mode, I hold the built-in flash release button, then turn the dial on the front of the grip below the shutter release to control the flash units output. I have three SB600 flash units on stands with umbrellas and find the set up to very useful for many functions; portraits, small room concerts, catalogue stills, etc.</p>

<p>Thanks for that.</p>

<p>I already have one SB800, if I just get a SB600 can it do the job? I'm wanting to do low key - split lighting and high key with maybe 3 or 4 SBs in total.</p>

<p>Of course I need the stands and the umbrellas.</p>

<p>Thanks.</p>

<p>PS. If I have more than 1 flash wireless. How do I control each flash independently? Do I need a SU-800?</p>

<p>Personally, if I think if your looking at buying up to four flash, the expense of that would be pretty high. You could get a LOT more for your money by buying Alien Bees + light modifiers and CyberSync triggers. I have eight SB flash. One is an SB-800, used for quick shots off camera. The other seven are older SB-28 flash triggered by CyberSyncs. Also have six White Lightning monolights. I'd rather have seven cheaper flash than three or four expensive ones, myself.<br>

Kent in SD</p>

<p>This looks like a white balance setting as somebody suggested. i think with some tweaking it would look pretty decent. The picture looks really cool. A little bit of warming up should fix the issue.</p>

<p>In order to control more than one group of flash units with the D70 you need a "master unit" in the camera hotshoe. This can be one of an SB-800, SB-900 or SU-800 (these will control three groups or remote flash units), or an SB-700 (this will control two groups of remote flash units). D-90, D200, D300, D-700 cameras control two groups of flash units with the built in commander pop-up.</p>

 

<p>The reason you don't get the results you want has little to do with your equipment. You can achieve lots with just one light and there is also a cheap second light source available called the sun. There are endless possibilities just with those two light sources.</p>

<p>And there is no need to get studio strobes until you know why you need them and what you want from them.</p>

<p>What you do need for things to be somewhat practical though is grip gear. So starting with your SB800 you need a good light stand, an umbrella adapter and a hotshoe adapter (cold shoe). Manfrotto makes good stands and stroboframe has the best hotshoe adapters. Now you have the ability to place your light in many places and you can direct it anywhere.</p>

<p>Umbrellas can be had cheap so I suggest getting a white shoot trough no-frills 40" or so umbrella.</p>

<p>You can use CLS to trigger your SB800 but personally I think CLS sucks on too many levels so I suggest getting a radio trigger pretty soon. Cybersyncs seems popular and reliable so that may be your best choice.</p>

<p>When you use radiotriggers like cybersync you are shooting with your speedlights in manual mode. That means that any flash that has manual mode can be used together, not just Nikon SB600-SB900. And that includes all studio strobes from every manufacturers as well.</p>

<p>Then you can start shooting. When you want to expand your lighting you know what your next move is going to be because there is something you want to achieve that you currently can't.</p>

<p> </p>

<p>Nikon has a good DvD for the CLS called " A Hands-on Guide to Creative Lighting"<br>

For me it had lots of info and helped alot</p>

<p>In contrast to Dan's great experience with Alien Bees, I had a really bad and expensive experience. Here are the details: http://www.photo.net/photography-lighting-equipment-techniques-forum/00YAMz</p>

<p>Jellina, I am sorry for your troubles. However, Paul Buff doesn't make capacitors, and I don't think its fair to blame the brand. In fact, it sounds like they took pretty good care of you, all things considered.</p>

<p>Even if I'm wrong about the capacitors (although it was Paul C Buff that suggested it might be a capacitor leak), it doesn't explain how the housings, which they claim are "indestructible" according to their own literature, cracked at all 4 corners of each of the 4 units. It's not like I dropped them or banged them around or spilled stuff on them. On the contrary, I was very careful with them. Since Paul C Buff refused to assist me in any way other than offering me the opportunity to pay full price to have the units repaired, I'm not sure what you mean when you say they took pretty good care of me.</p>