Leica for Available light

<p>Guys, I have another M6 that I want to like using. I also have a Canon 5D II. How do you shoot available light pics with the M6? I want to use B&W film. I don't know if I'm spoiled but the 5D is just so much easier and better than the pics from the M6. This is not a slam against the Leica. I want some suggestions on how you use the Leica for indoor shots without a flash. I have a f/2.8 lens. BTW, I do my own B&W processing at home.</p>

<p>My years of available light shooting were pretty simple...put in an ISO 400-800 B&W film, use a light meter to determine the ambient light for the various locations I will be shooting, and shoot away - the film has enough latitude to capture what I want within an f stop either way of the ideal exposure. I typically have used Tri-X or XP2. I'm not sure what your problem is, whether there isn't enough light to focus accurately, or not using high enough ISO, or an array of development issues - perhaps for pushed film. I've found my M cameras (M4 & former M6) easily match my DSLRs in available light if I have the right film in them.</p>

<p>This is a very difficult question to answer because there is no single response that would cover all available light situations. You don't mention what specific problems you are having; under/over exposure, focus, etc. We also don't know what metering mode you are using with the Canon under similar situations. This information might help to provide advice on adjusting your technique. Your question is really impossible to answer accurately without more information.</p>

<p>Assuming that you are having a metering issue, in general you should understand that the M6 meter functions much like a spot meter, or a center-weighted meter with a fairly tight field of view. Because of this, tricky situations, like strong back-lighting, may cause metering errors if you are not careful about where in the scene you're getting your primary reading. A hand-held light meter might help to assist in your readings, but experimentation in different situations is the best way to develop a technique suited to the M6 meter characteristics.</p>

<p>If you would kindly post more details about your problems, or perhaps give us a sample image, a more useful answer could be given.</p>

<p>A quick guide would be to get some 1600 speed film (or you can even push it), get a fast lens like a 1.4 or at least a 2.0 and then just shoot at full open. Should give you easily hand-holdable speeds unless its really dark. If its bright enough, you can try 400 speed film. I think you'll be able to get away with f2.8 if its a fast film. If you want fine grain, then use slower film and a tripod :)<br>

Also, I assume you know how to meter? Just take an incident reading (or guess) and shoot away. No need to keep changing exposures unless the light is changing a lot.</p>

<p>some of my best results with film is Tri-X at 1600 in Acufine (but developed as if it was at 1000).....or Tri-X at 1600 in HC-110 (developed for 1600)....or Tri-X at 1600 in PMK Pyro (developed for 1600). The first is dead easy, just follow the directions. The second is best done with minimal agitation...meaning almost none. And the third is a longer process but best results overall. The first two are what you would expect for pushed tri x, somewhat grainy and contrasty.......the third is less grainy, less contrasty.</p>

<p>Personally I think using 400 iso film, not pushed, will be hit and miss.....800 maybe....but 1600 (and up) seems to work best for keeping away from the slowest shutterspeeds in most low light situations.</p>

<p>As for glass.........in my opinion the 2.8 is not gonna do you justice. 2.0 or faster is definitely needed. Also, maybe a slight wide angle lens....gives you a little more DOF.</p>

<p>Are you going to get 5DMKII high iso results......no way. Will you get better dynamic range with film......yes. Altho, if you are skillful with exposure and photoshop/lightroom you can tweak full frame RAW digital awfully close these days dynamic range wise.</p>

<p>Important question #1: What lenses are you using. Important question #2: What is your subject?</p>

<p>For available light you need a fast lens and fast film. The lower the light the faster your film and lens should be.</p>

<p>For fast BW film I highly recommend Fuji Neopan 1600.</p>

<p>The fastest lens you can get for you Leica is the Nocilux 50/0.09. The fastest M-mount 35mm lens is the Nokton 35/1.2. The excellent and fairly inexpensive Nokton 50/1.1 is an excellent choice.</p>

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<p>With my Leicas, I use TMAx (TMY-2) pushed to 1600, developed in TMax developer per Kodak's recommendations. I typically shoot with a 50mm f/1.5 Sonnar or a 35mm Summicron. My Canon 5D set at 1600 (typically with a 50mm f/1.4) is superb as well. I use the Leica where the shooting environment and subject requries a smaller, quieter camera. In a mixed portfolio of prints, almost no viewer can tell which print orginated with film and which with digital. </p>

<p>Noone can tell the difference between your digital prints and your RC or fiber base silver prints?</p>

<p>With an f/2 or faster lens, either 50mm or 35mm, Tri-X or XP2 at ASA 400 is generally sensitive enough. If you can manage exposures down to 1/4 sec., hand-held or with some manner of support, your f/2.8 lens may also do the job.</p>

<p>Alex, I want that 50/0.09!!! How much for it? – Wouldn't mind an ol' 0.95 either... ;-)<br>

David, your question is truly way too general to warrant useful answers. Posting a picture you like and saying why plus one you don't plus reason is a minimum.<br>

Cheers<br>

Pete</p>

<p>I don't think anyone has recommended the use of a tripod. I shoot my m6ttl with available light indoors with an f2.8 and don't have any issues. Ever thought about a tripod?</p>

<p>I don't think anyone has recommended the use of a tripod. I shoot my m6ttl with available light indoors with an f2.8 and don't have any issues. Ever thought about a tripod?</p>

<p>Fast lens, f2 or faster.<br>

Tri-X.<br>

Diafine.<br>

Done.</p>

<p>"Posting a picture you like and saying why plus one you don't plus reason is a minimum."</p>

<p>Pete, is this some type of code??? Really, I think I know what you are saying but I have come to the conclusion that I am sticking to the 5D and giving up on Black and White film. Way too much effort for the results. Sometimes the easy way is the best way.<br>

Thanks everyone for your input.</p>