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7D Light Temperature Cockeyed?


ajpn

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<p>I bought a 7D for a back up a few months ago and only have just now started to use it when I sent my 1D Mark III in for service.</p>

<p>When you set the body on flash for use in the studio the files come out at 6250. My 1D is 6000.</p>

<p>The files on the 7D have a definite yellow cast and need white balance adjustments.</p>

<p>Has anyone else encountered this problem and does anyone know why Canon has changed their setting to such an unreasonably high temperature?</p>

 

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<p>Are you using autoWB? Normally you set WB manually when shooting under studio lights as they aren't subject to sudden changes. Personally I prefer a little warmer WB. Realize you can change WB prior to converting RAW to TIFF (in batch mode if needed).</p>

Sometimes the light’s all shining on me. Other times I can barely see.

- Robert Hunter

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<p>AWB always the way to go. Flash (Speedlite) intensity/direction/output varies. Trivially corrected in Raw. Supposedly too the Speedlite tells your camera the temperature.</p>

<p>I just got my 7D two days ago and already its AWB is a huge improvement over the 40D.</p>

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<p>I am shooting in a studio with strobes, not speedlites or flashes. I am manually setting the WB on flash.</p>

<p>And no Bob, I don't have any compensations set up, unless the 7D comes already set with some sort of compensations set. I have really done very little to this camera except setting AF points and such.</p>

<p>When I open the files in ACR or Lightroom the temperature is showing as 6250. The tint it coming up as +11.</p>

<p>With my 1D the temp comes up as 6000 and the tint at -1</p>

<p>Needless to say the files are excessively yellow and need serious adjustments.</p>

<p>Today I will use the manual kelvin adjustment and see how that works.</p>

<p>Thanks for the responses.</p>

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<p>You can also change the parameters in ACR 5.6 -- it can set this WB constant when it sees a raw from the 7D -- or just program a custom setting on the dial to the WB you'd like... shoot a gray card then calibrate from they and apply to all your raws. I don't see an issue here.</p>
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<p>They are vastly different cameras (sensors) the 1D3 and the 7D</p>

<p>The 7D uses twin turbos (Digic IV processors), the 1D does not. I would easily imagine the characteristics of the light waves filling up the photo buckets on the two cameras' sensors is a little different. Like slightly different film is...</p>

<p>What do I see in my 7D having one for not even two days? </p>

<p>Superb LCD! The VF kicks the 40D's in the ass too. The 7D AF is "too fast" for me as well. Takes awhile to get used to. Also, the 7D's AWB out of the box trumps the 40D. I've never handled a 1D3.</p>

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<p>250k will make a very very very slight difference, less than that even, less again, you would need to be a pipette wielding pixel peeper for even photoshop to see a difference.<br>

Are all other things equal: Is it the same lens? Different lenses have different coatings so that could account for the cast.<br>

Do you have a skylight 1B on one lens and not another?<br>

If colour is so critical to you (250kelvins, c'mon man) then get a macbeth chart and do a test frame at the start of every shoot.<br>

If it is waaaay yellow then me thinky that there is either ambient light creeping into your studio shots or you've left the heads on the wrong setting. A difference of 250k would not jump out of the screen and grab your retinas by the chookies.<br>

Really.<br>

The problem is not the camera body.</p>

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