How to properly expose pictures when using flash?

<p>What is the best way or best practice on setting correct exposure when shooting indoors with flash. For example under normal lighting conditions my camera may suggest 1/10th @ f/2.8 without using flesh. 1/10 is too and I need to bump it up to let's say 1/60 - 1/100 with f/4.0 and flash on. The flash is set to TTL and picture sometimes comes out too dark, which can be corrected by changing aperture, time or ISO. Is there a way to get it right the first time? Sometimes it takes me 2-3 shots to get good exposure based on histogram. If it makes a difference I have Canon 5D mk2 and 580EX and do not have light meter.<br /> Thank you</p>

<p><a href="http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/">http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/</a></p>

<p>(101st time it's been posted, this year already)</p>

<p>First, read this:</p>

<p>http://photonotes.org/articles/eos-flash/</p>

<p>Then understand that when shooting indoors and your flash is the main light source the settings on your camera don't really matter that much. You should shoot with shutter speeds fast enough not to be affected by shake or movement and with an aperture appropriate for the depth of field you want. The ISO will just affect the flash output and recycle time. So if you shoot at 1/80 and 4.0 at 400 ASA, your camera's meter will indicate that you are underexposing by several stops. Just ignore the meter and shoot. This works for full on or bounce flash (assuming the ceiling is not too high). You can bounce the flash or increase the ISO if you don't want your bright subjects against a dark background.</p>

<p>If the flash is not the main light source, if you want to try to balance the flash with the ambient light, then you will have to experiment with the aperture and ISO (keep the shutter speed faster than 1/60 or so or you will get ghosting and trails).</p>

<p>If you want the ghosting and trails (like shooting dancers at a party or a nightclub), then just shoot with very slow shutter speeds ("dragging the shutter"), and you will have the effect of a double exposure -- the flash fires at the beginning of the sequence then turns off, but the shutter is still open, so the ambient light and movement are captured too.</p>

<p>You can also experiment with reducing or increasing the flash exposure compensation from the camera at any point. But the most important thing is to understand how your flash works and what it is trying to do -- sometimes it's counter-intuitive, and that photonotes article explains everything.</p>

<p>Thank you, I'll give it a try tonight.</p>

<p>I have a 5D Mk-II + 430 EX II. I always use a diffuser for indoor shooting. My flash use routine is simply - 1) Mount flash (2) Set to auto (3) Put on the diffuser (4) Tilt flash to approx 45 degree angle (5) Point and shoot! I almost always get a pleasing exposure with none of the *flashy* effects in the photo and subjects with open eyes (no red eye either).</p>

<p>Simon, 90% of the time I bounce flash from the ceiling, occasionally I use 45 degree angle, both cases with diffuser or light sphere by Gary Fong. Pictures looks good overall, my question was regarding properly exposing photographs using flash, most of the time it was a guessing game. I am almost done reading "<strong>Flash Photography with Canon EOS Cameras - Part I</strong> " - Good stuff.</p>