Birds Photography

<p>Using super telephoto lenses in birds parks which if stop is recommended while the on auto shutter, I mean to concentrate on shooting than keep playing with the setting before or after image and also which is the best using duringly, the tripod or the mono pod ?</p>

<p>Thank you and wishing you all of the best.</p>

<p>You will want to put the setting on Av and keep the aperture as wide open as possible in order to isolate the bird from surroundings that are at a different focal distance. JR</p>

<p>You need to practice and shoot a lot, starting out using AV is a good idea. I handhold my telephotos because it's faster and versatile.</p>

<p>I don't have a super telephoto - only use my 70-200VR as even my 300/4 is a little too difficult to use for BIF at my level. Aperture wise I usually stop down a little bit, to F4 - F5.6 in order to get more depth of field to correct for autofocusing errors. That's assuming I already have enought shutter speed to achieve the effect I want (i.e. tact sharp shot vs blurry wing motion).</p>

<p>I haven't used my tripod in about a year. I usually hand hold my BIF shots, but I do use a monopod when doing BIF with my 300/4.</p>

<p>With regards to exposure, I have my camera's auto iso engaged, usually have the shutter speed at least 1/1000, sometimes 1/1600, and allow the iso to ramp up to 1600iso. +/-EV to compensate. Again, shutter depends on the effect I want to create.</p>

<p>Alvin</p>

<p>What do you mean by super telephoto? There's a big difference between handling a 300 or 400mm and anything above 600mm.<br>

Up to 400mm, particularly with image stabilization, most can handhold for birds in flight. A monopod can be useful, but tough to use for birds in flight unless you add a gimbal head, like Manfrotto or Wimberly. For tripod, which you'll want to consider at 500mm and above, you really need a gimbal. Second best is a really good ball head.<br>

I tend to shoot shutter priority to control the blur (or not) of the beating wings. With longer lenses, you'll need 1/800th and can only go lower with a tripod. (There are exception and some can handhold to lower shutter speeds). I'll often use 1/1600th sec. and higher. You need to be aware of the light level and adjust the ISO to allow work within your available aperture. I find that if I get the shutter speed right, at a reasonable ISO, the bokeh takes care of itself.</p>

<p>Dave</p>

<p>Tripod: better in terms of camera stability and the best for creating crisp images. Monopods will never have the stability of a tripod, however, are great for when you go hiking they are lightweight. <a id="KonaLink2" href="http://www.brighthub.com/multimedia/photography/articles/31941.aspx" target="undefined"> </a><br>

<a href="http://www.brighthub.com/multimedia/photography/articles/31941.aspx#ixzz0UsT6hRSF"></a> <br /> <br /></p>

<p>Monopod vs. tripod is also much dependent on focal length. When using something like a 400mm lens that can be hand held in many situations, particularly for BIF, the monopod adds extra security while allowing you to swing around 360 degrees without trouble. Of course, just like with a tripod, the monopod needs a good gimbal head, like the Wimberley or the Manfrotto (which I use).<br>

Dave</p>