14-24/2.8 lens detect?, or D700 CMOS sensor bloom?

<p>I hope someone has advice or explanation.<br>

The D700 sensor (CMOS) cleaned via the menu, and I could not see any dust in a test picture of a white surface. (Yes, I will get the sensor 7X lupe for this, perhaps).<br>

The lens was inspected and clean.<br>

Visited Utah/Arizona parks, approximately 30 % of pictures were ruined by on the lens/camera defect, that changed position with the direction of sun rays.</p>

<p>Was it a CMOS sensor blooming ? Was it a lens fault ?<br>

I used the same lens earlier on D200 (CCD sensor, and 1.5 X angle crop), and did not get this at all, NEF or JPG.</p>

<p>Apperently $2000 lens + $3000 camera do not guarantee success. <br>

Thank you for any advice and comment.</p>

<div></div>

<p>what effect? you mean the little rainbow slivers in the bottom left-hand side? might be flare if you were shooting into direct sunlight w/out a lens hood.</p>

<p>Looks very much like lens flare to me - if you are refering to the blue/red slivers in the lower right corner. Believe the lens hood on the 14-24 is fixed - but can't be too effective when shooting almost directly towards the sun. The dots in the center of the frame are also flare - which in any case seems to be very well controlled for a lens with such a huge front element and small focal length.</p>

<p>What you see is flare. Every lens I ever had showed flare when shooting into the sun - some more than others.</p>

<p>Thank you!<br>

Sorry to see that much flare in the lens. <br>

Another example of the "side effect"</p><div></div>

<p>Yep, that is almost exactly the same flare I got with that same lens and camera when shooting into the sun. The solution is, don't shoot into the sun, or make sure some object is blocking the direct sun rays. See some good examples of problem photos and solutions in this thread:<br>

<a href="00TAzd">http://www.photo.net/nikon-camera-forum/00TAzd</a></p>

 

<p>I often forget to take of the UV filter under similar conditions - with it, the effect is even more pronounced. Good thing the 14-24 doesn't take filters. BTW, the flare can also be seen in the viewfinder, and often a carefully position hand can provide shade for the lens and avoid the flare altogether.</p>

<p>Flare or ghosting - it is a reflection of the sun off some internal part of the lens or - not in this case - off something on the lens itself, a speck of dust or a fingerprint, etc. This is pretty much a universal result of shooting directly into the sun. Flare can also happen if direct sunlight just "brushes" the front element of the lens, a common issue with an ultrawide like this 14-24.</p>

<p>Filters have a great effect on flare and ghosting. A good multi-coated filter can actually reduce it, even dramatically, while an uncoated filter can make it much worse. I try to use almost entirely multi-coated filters for that very reason.</p>

<p>By the way, the ghosting in that photo isn't bad - I've seen (and created) much, much worse.</p>

<p>CMOS sensors, by design, do not and cannot bloom.</p>

<p>Use caution if the sun is not over your shoulder. Image review is your friend as is photoshop now while your clone out the junk.</p>

<p>I made comment about prior use of this lens with D200. I owe you some explanation. That was prior visit to the Grand Canyon South Rim, where the sun is usually behing most photographers, and therefore no or less flare there. </p>

<p>Thank You!</p>

<p>If you're interested in a high quality wide angle with minimal flare and ghosting, try the Voigtländer 20mm f/3.5. It does require stopping down to f/8 for best quality in the corners of the FX frame, but it's tiny, not that expensive and should do exactly what you need in these kinds of situations - render a sharp, saturated image with minimal artifacts.</p>

<p>That looks like flare to me. Anytime your shooting towards bright sunlight, you will likely get flare. That is definitely not a problem with the camera. Some lenses handle flare better than others but will all do when in direct sunlight. If your going to shoot directly into the sun like that try to shade the front element as much as you can. Sometimes you can hold your hand out in from above the camera and block the sun from hitting the front element. Make sure you are using your lens hood. I'm sure the front element on the 14-24 makes flare a little easier since it sticks out so far.</p>

<p>I also agree that it's flare. Although I don't own the 14-24 I do have and use a Sigma 15-30 which is similar in it's configuration with built in lens hood and large bulbous front element and it too flares in similar situations as yours. </p>

<p>That is flare, exactly as my 14-24 looks. This is excellent performances for shooting into the sun. You're getting good results for those conditions. You see the flare in your viewfinder, so you can check it before you shoot.</p>