Racetrack Photography

I wasn't sure where to post this, but I'm pretty sure the there's a lot of parallels between sports and motorsports photography so I chose

this subforum.

 

I work as a commercial photographer, and while I try not to limit myself to any certain subject matter, architectural is my strong point.

Anyone who's curious can view my work here: http://bradgillette.zenfolio.com/f158504769/

 

Anyways, to get to the point of this post, I've been asked by one of my clients to shoot his Lotus in action at the track he's a member

at. I've done automotive work before, but I had a car to shoot from. The regulations at the track we'll be going to doesn't allow for any

unsecured objects inside the car, so I'm pretty sure a camera is out of the question. I will be bringing a Porsche and a second driver

along just in case.

 

My question is, does anybody have any techniques that may be helpful for achieving dramatic shots from the trackside? I'm a bit out of

my "comfort zone" for this shoot and really want to do some great work. The client is the guy who got me started, and has been quite

possibly the greatest client anyone could ever wish for (he even lets me live for an extremely reduced rate in one of his properties -

1,500 square feet in Chicago's Printer's Row for about $800 a month).

 

Alternatively, if you have any examples of great trackside photography, please feel free to post them here.

 

I own the following equipment, but will rent anything else I may need (Calumet is about two miles away):

 

- Canon 40d

- EF-S 10-22

- EF 17-40 F4L

- EF 50 1.4

- Manfrotto monopod

- Metz MZ-54i shoemount flash

- (2) Photogenic Powerlight 1250DR-UV strobes

 

As most of my lenses are on the wider end, I know I'm going to need something longer. I have a friend who has a 70-200 f2.8L IS that

I'm hoping to borrow, and if I can't I will rent something. Would that lens be a good choice? Or should I go with something longer?

 

Thanks in advance for all of your help!

What track will you be shooting? I've been to most around Chicago. I'm 99% sure you won't be allowed in another car during a "hot lap". Even if you were, there is no way you'd get a decent picture. Too many G forces flinging you around. The best bet is to see if you can get to stand in a corner worker station. These are typically very close to the track, and out of harms way from where cars typically would go off track in a spin, or skid. Long, fast lenses are typically your friend. Practice panning at 1/125 to get the car in focus, but the wheels and background still showing motion. You may need to bump up your shutter speed slightly if the car isn't sharp.

Having shot just one race, but having looked at many pictures, I second what Jay says about standing in a corner.

I was just a regular fan at a NASCAR race at Infineon and walked around taking pictures. I thought my best shots

were at the corners. Besides getting individual cars rounding the corner<br>

<a

href="http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/gaelson/2008%20NASCAR%20at%20Infineon/?action=view&current=0232_IMG.jpg"

target="_blank"><img

src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/gaelson/2008%20NASCAR%20at%20Infineon/0232_IMG.jpg" border="0"

alt="Photobucket"></a><br>

I thought getting some of the rest of the course in the background made a nice shot, gave a feel for that part of

the course.<br>

<a href="http://s254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/gaelson/photnet/?action=view&current=IMG_0080.jpg"

target="_blank"><img src="http://i254.photobucket.com/albums/hh102/gaelson/photnet/IMG_0080.jpg" border="0"

alt="Photobucket"></a>

As noted above, the track and shooting location determine the necessary focal length. I use an 80-200mm - f/2.8 for

most close action track applications. I also have 300mm - f2.8 prime, that is a good 2nd body lens, but not a

good "all around" track lens.<br>

<br>

Here are a couple of photos and Exif info to help you establish a baseline. <br>

<br>

D2X, 300mm - f/2.8, 1/320 @ f/7.6, ISO 200.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8045789-md.jpg"> <br>

<br>

 

D2x, 80-200mm - f2.8 @ 125mm, 1/320 @ f/14, ISO 400.<br>

<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/8045787-md.jpg">

I've done quite a lot of motorsport shooting and it really depends a lot of the nature of the day. If it is just club day, you can get to good vantage points and you don't need that long a lense the 70-200 is about optimum then. Then if it is an international event the vantages are much more controlled and typically a 300 or longer is very useful.<p>

One basic rule if it is sunny: Keep the sun at your back. Panning I always start with 1/ focal length, take a safe set, then go more and more ambitious (= slower times) I usually end up going to 1/15 s but the longer the time the more statistical it is. Panning is easiest at the inside of the curve as then the focusing distance doesn't change that much. If you have the smallest doubt about the focusing speed of your servo, then pre-focus and machine gun it over the spot - short burst, say , 3 frames.<p>

An on-coming car, you can calculate the required exp time by allowing the car advance 5 ..10 cm max. Say you have 100 mph = 160 km/h = 44 m/s .... 44 / 0.1 = 440 ... = 1/500 s min, preferably 1/750 s. Notice the faster you go the greater the aperture and thus the shorter the dof. That's nice if you get the focus spot on, if you don't it's blur.<p>

My basic advice is to take always a safe set first to secure your incomings and then go more adventurous.