Jump to content

Discreet camera


RaymondC

Recommended Posts

Hi, what would you suggest as a discreet camera - can be autofocus or manual

focus - film or digital. Open to suggestions. Just needs M mode or A mode and

works with AF-D lenses.

 

I find the prism sticks out. I am wanting it for street photog, incl some

nightclub work outside - not inside so something discreet and stuff. The last

thing I want is pull out that 2.8 zoom and that lens hood ;)

Link to comment
Share on other sites

This is a perfect application for a Leica - small, quiet and discrete. The standard 50/2 Summicron is 2/3rds the size of the Nikon 50/1.8 and the half that size again. Be the first one in years to actually shoot with a Leica instead of fondling it :-)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

The F3HP is small and discrete, and not much larger than the FG (and much more reliable). Neither are auto-focus, but can be used with an AF-D (not G) lens with manual focus. A 50/1.4 AIS is probably the perfect "street" lens - small, shallow DOF (for subject isolation), excellent IQ and fast. The F3 operation is so smooth, it seems like a Leica (until you push the button) - neither of these cameras can be called "quiet". The F3 may scare the horses, but by then it's too late ;-)
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I'm a Nikon guy and have over 35 bodies (from F to F6) but for street I use a Leica M3 and

M7, usually with a 35mm f/2. Leicas are pricey. So if price is an issue then I would suggest a

a Leica M mount rangefinder like the CV Bessa R3A or R3M (see cameraquest.com) and pick

your CV lens of choice.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Any old camera would do. People notice the new stuff. Few pay much, if any, attention to someone taking pictures with an old rangefinder camera or slr camera. I enjoy looking at used equipment at a local camera store. The other day I handled an olympus om-1 camera, fully mechanical in operation, with 50mm lens and motor drive for $150.00. In the next case was a nikon fe-2 with 50mm lens for $125.00. These would be excellent, affordable choices. What do you think?
Link to comment
Share on other sites

For street stuff, you need to decide on a fast prime - the 50 or 85 1.4 would be my choices.

I'd do digital though, and unfortunately, the best small one that drives a non-AFS is the D50

IMHO. I don't even know if that is still made.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Nikon FG: "light weight (490g), compact (136mm (W) x 87.5 mm (H) x 54 mm (D) Nikon FG may be attractive to anyone who put mobility , compatibility and affordability as priorities.

 

Where it beats the EM and some of the other manual Nikons, for what you mention, is that is has a row of LEDs for exposure readings and not a match needle. In dark situations, you can easily see the red LEDs and can't see the needle. Runs on simple watch batteries. Good used ones go for $100.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Bill Wheeler....The Olympus OM-1 is a great inconspicuous SLR. And the OM series got the prism right! Probably THE BEST VIEWFINDER in any camera. Too bad it doesn't take Nikkors, or I'd have one. :)

 

And yep, the FE, FM and FG all make fine invisible street cameras. Can't really go wrong with any of them.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

I would agree that the Leica M series excel for this sort of thing - the M8 I have not tried,

but ought to be pretty good.

 

Having said that, I just traded my M kit (including the f/1 Noctilux) and bought a D3, 24-

70 2.8 and some cash.

 

I did this because it has lain in its' case for 3 years and not shot a single frame. I

concluded from this that - lovely though it was - it clearly had no function in my work any

more and was better "recycled" into equipment that I could actually derive benefit from.

 

For subtle stuff I am using a Coolpix 5100 which delivers pretty fair results to be honest.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Let's try a different track. I have a Bronica 645 and I found that by using the waist level finder, hardly anyone on the street seemed to figure out what I was doing. Remember, with a waist level finder you are looking down instead of at your subjects. By holding the camera against your body instead of up against your cheek it's much steadier too. There are some fast lenses such as f2.8 available, and the quality of prints from 120 rolls is very good. As a bonus, it doesn't even look like a camera for most people. Finally, here's the topper. The quality of the Bronica is first class but since it's all discontinued the prices are dirt cheap. This is the route I'd suggest because (1) it's stealthy (2) doesn't attract attention (3) great image quality (4) dirt cheap.

 

 

Kent in SD

Link to comment
Share on other sites

The F3 can be made even more discrete with a little effort.

 

Use a fisheye or ultrawide. Zone focus and stop down for maximum DOF, within limits per film speed, available light, etc.

 

Lock up the mirror. This will eliminate mirror slap. The only noise will be the shutter release. Literally, point and shoot.

 

Add the DW-3 finder and keep it folded down.

 

If you want to make it even more compact, remove the prism, remove the focus screen - you won't need either. Cover the exposed opening with tape or fabricate a cover to protect the camera.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Lots of good advice here. Cheapest is probably an FG. I tend to tape over my logos, and that may or may not cut the attention factor.

 

My favorite for this sort of thing is an F2AS. The viewfinder is fabulous, and the feel is excellent. They're also very rugged, which is nice if you inadvertently whack the camera into the edge of the table or something.

 

I don't know why, but I find the mild noise of the F2 bodies just disappears with the folks that I shoot. Something about conditioning to pre-flashes, flashes, whir of AF; they just don't take these things seriously.

 

The F3 is probably every bit as good, with the possible exception of the nearly impossible to use viewfinder light. My F3s are always mated to the fabulous MD-4. That's just me. If I want an excellent MF body with no motor, I reach for the F2.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

AF-S (VR) 400mm/f2.8 or AF-S 200-400/4.0 with any camera body mounted on a tripod set in a darkened room on the 2nd floor of the building facing the night club from another side of the street. No need to worry about the logo or the mirror slap. :P
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...