david_schwartz6 Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 I recently exposed some shots with 120 Kodak Portriga VC 400 and got an unanticipated result -- think I understand why, but wanted to check in with the experts here. The exposures were for 3 - 5 seconds in muted daylight indoors -- I bracketed and compensated for reciprocity failure, and generally got great results. But there was an interesting color shift -- the pears I was shooting were retained their reddish/orange hue, but the completely black background against which I was shooting shifted -- to BLUE! I assume this color shift is a result of the long exposure, but wanted to check with you all to get confirmation. Many thanks! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
chris_kedrowski Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 yeah, sort of a reciprocity problem, sometimes you should use a color correcting filter for those kind of shots Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
User_502260 Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 You were using Portra film. Portriga is the name of a long discontinued Agfa black & white printing paper. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_tuthill Posted September 21, 2007 Share Posted September 21, 2007 If done with automated printing, this is easily explained. Printer software added blue to compensate for predominant yellow in the pears. I can't imagine Portra exhibits reciprocity failure at only 5 seconds. It would help if you posted a sample. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_schwartz6 Posted September 21, 2007 Author Share Posted September 21, 2007 Jeff, yes, of course! Sorry for the mistake. Bill -- Thanks for this tip -- will check it out. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
keith_lubow Posted September 22, 2007 Share Posted September 22, 2007 You get color shifts or color crossovers when doing long exposures with any currently available color film. The tungsten films are not as bad, but still not as good as the old type L films, which were made SPECIFICALLY for long exposures (hence the "L"), and were all tungsten balanced. In this particular case, the data sheet for New Portra states that reciprocity is not applicable in exposures longer than one second, and that individual tests should be made in the case longer exposures. Also, you can't judge properly if there is any automation whatsoever in the printing process. You need to look at hand-printed examples, or possibly scan and try color correcting in the computer. If you can't color correct by using curves or levels adjustments of either RGB, CMY, or AB, then you have had a color crossover. If you can correct, then you have had a color shift, and in the future you know exactly which way the shift went. Try again with a MacBeth chart if you really want to get into it. Keith Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_schwartz6 Posted September 22, 2007 Author Share Posted September 22, 2007 Keith -- great help! Thanks Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
rowland_mowrey Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 If you underexposed slightly, the black in the print would be on the toe of the negative and might end up blue due to the underexposure. Check to see whether the negatives are thin or not, and what kind of detail you have in the blacks. What you describe really sounds like underexposure, or perhaps as stated above, some correction factor. I suspect underexposure. Of course, OTOH, overexposure with the image being on the shoulder would require that blacks be in the mid scale. If this took place, then printer compensation would blue up the blacks but for another reason. Ron Mowrey Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_schwartz6 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Rowland -- don't think these are under-exposed -- the pears are perfectly exposed, just PERFECT -- so that's why I think we have a reciprocity problem. Or else a printing problem.....I will take them in to an expert and see what he/she says..... Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
mr_engel1 Posted September 24, 2007 Share Posted September 24, 2007 Your highlights might be exposed in a way that makes them printable, but your shadows might be falling off the scale. I've noticed that the 'NEW' Kodak Portra emulsions have very poor reciprocity characteristics and in some instances require 4-5 STOPS exposure compensation! (Which makes me want to kick someone at Kodak) My initial tests with this 'new' emulsion (gggrrrrr!!) gave me highlight and midtones but no shadow detail in exposures that were corrected by only one stop. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
david_schwartz6 Posted September 24, 2007 Author Share Posted September 24, 2007 Thanks to everyone. All very helpful. I must confess that this is the first times I have ever used color film for serious work -- and I am inclined (LOL) to stick with B&W, where I have spent a decade learning about how to deal with all these problems effectively.....but I will take the negs and prints back to the lab and report back on their response. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
bill_tuthill Posted September 25, 2007 Share Posted September 25, 2007 Mr Engel, the new Portra datasheet says no compensation is required for exposures up to 1 second. Could you please be more specific about the tests you did and the results you got? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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