D70S Filter Reccomendations and explanation

Hi, all I'm fairly new to the world of photography, so bear with me if I seem a

bit ignorant. Shortly after I purchased my D70S in August, I went into a small

camera shop in my neighborhood, to buy a cleaning cloth. Anyway, the shopkeeper

suggested that I buy a filter because I mentioned I was paranoid about

scracthing my lens (which is a Nikkor Af-S 1-70mm that came in a package with

the camera body). It seemed like a good idea to me, so I purchased a Sunpak 67mm

1A filter, which I have had on the lens since then. Between now and the, I've

done quite a bit of reading about photography.Previously, I was under the

impression that a filter was more or less a scratch protector for the expensive

lens, but now I've learned that isn't really the case, and filters can have

quite a bit of effect on the photos I'm shooting. What I'd like to know is what

filters should I purchase for my camera, as they seem like a fairly cheap way to

improve my shots, if I select the right ones. I'm an architecture student, so a

majority of my shots are of buildings, both during the day and at night. I also

shoot a lot of biking/cycling photos. After reading through the forums here,

everyone seems to knowledgeable, so I would really appreciate your advice as to

what other filters would be worth my time to buy. Thanks in advance.

My suggestion would be these filters, in this order of importance (and I'm sort of assuming you shoot B&W):

 

Circular Polarizer (deepen skies and contrast in clouds)

Orange (Excellent lens to bring out clouds, contrast in landscapes)

 

Yellow (Gives B&W a little "pop" without the drama of an orange or red)

Red (R60 or 25A - Brings out a lot of contrast. Very striking images in combination with polarizer)

 

There are many other filters you can use, but these would always be in my camera bag. Also, I would probably buy a little higher quality filter if using them with my Nikkor lenses. I used to buy Nikon filters until they got hard to get, and recently have been buying Hoya Super HMCs. You may also want to plan for sharing filters on other lenses. For example, I buy all my filters in 77mm now and use step up rings so I can use them on nearly any lens.

IF you are just wanting to protect your lens with minimal photographic effect I would suggest a UV filter. I keep one on my lenses at almost all times for protection. A Circular polarizer is always great too (Color or B&W) Especially when there is water or sky in your photo.

I usually keep my UV filters on all lenses for protection from dust/salt spray.

 

When I'm shooting into a light source, the cheaper filters have to come off because the lack of multi-coat causes large blooming. Just shoot a turned on light bulb with and without a cheap Tiffen filter. The difference is amazing. On my 80-400, I've had to take off the filter completely because I would get subtle double images, making it look like the lens wasn't working. I have to get a B&W or Hoya HMC multi to eliminate that problem.

 

A polarizing filter is key. Then split grads. If you want to warm up your photos, an 81A or B. People say just adjust your white balance but if you're a purist, that causes blue channel noise. The optical filter eliminates that problem.

 

I've sacrificed two filters over the years by dropping the lens. The filter broke, lens survived.

A 1A "skylight" filter is slightly warming, in addition to providing UV and scratch protection. In most cases, you won't notice any effect at all. The only other filter you are likely to want is a circular polarizing filter. You can use a polarizer to darken blue sky, and more important, to reduce reflections of the sky on plants, earth and rocks. This increases the saturation of colors, even on cloudy days.

 

You need a circular polarizer (as opposed to a linear polarizer) so that the autofocus and autoexposure sensors in your camera are not affected by the filter's orientation.

 

Other filters, including those used for B&W photography, are easily emulated in post editing.

In digital post production every optical filter effect can be produced, with much more

control than with on-camera filters. Except for polarisation! So, Michael, save yourself

some money...

I agree with W. Smith on this.

 

I only have a UV filter for each lens (which comes off when shooting into the sun or a light

source), a good multi-coated polarizer, and gradated ND filters, which can NOT be emulated

in post, if you blow out highlights or lose shadow detail.

 

Color balance in the computer in post? I think that the purists are wonky when they complain

about channel noise. I've been working with Photoshop and digital photography for a

decade... It's a non-issue imho.

People will argue you can do split grad in post with two exposures. But why waste your time? You toss on the split grad, take your shot and you've got it.

 

Polarization isn't reproduceable in post, that's for sure.

 

Consider if you want something specific, it's easier to get it when hitting the shutter than wasting time in PS. It's all a personal work flow. I prefer to get it in shutter because I don't like to spend my time in front of the computer. At least more than necessary.

 

I don't use warming filters any more unless I want to do something funky. The white balance works for me. I'm not a purist, obviously.

Thanks all, that was quite helpful. I just have one other question, what is the price point between a 'good' and a 'cheap' filter? I'm not made of money, but I've definetly learned my lesson that 'cheap' lenses aren't worth it, is it the same with filters more or less?

"In digital post production every optical filter effect can be produced, with much more control than with on-camera filters. Except for polarisation! So, Michael, save yourself some money..."

 

Except for

1) polarization filters

2) infrared filters if you are shooting near fire that produces intense heat radiation

3) contrast filters (such as the Tiffen low/ultra contrast series; the ccd has its limits)

4) neutral density filters for long shutter speeds in bright conditions

5) gradient filters, if the dynamic range is too much for the ccd.

 

You should also try what effect an UV filter might have on exposure and white balance and noise when UV is strong. As we have these UV warnings... I have no certain knowledge, but I have a feel that it just might have an effect...

 

It's the polarizer that you'll probably need.