tyler_sky Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 I am getting ready to develop a few rolls of Pan F+ 50 with D-76.However i have looked at digitaltruth.com and they suggest 8.5 minutesusing D-76 at 1+1 at 68F where as on the package the film came in itsays 10:30 with the same conditions. Any ideas on what time would be best? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
kevin_hundsnurscher Posted April 17, 2006 Share Posted April 17, 2006 The 8.5min time posted on digital truth is good. I've used it. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
randall ellis Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 All of the times on the Massive Dev chart for Pan F+ that I have used so far worked well. I have not used them all though, and D-76 is one of the ones that I have not used, but I still think you will be better served using the Massive times than the box times. - Randy Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
trooper Posted April 18, 2006 Share Posted April 18, 2006 I believe the 10.5 minute is used by people trying to pull EI50 out of the film. It is much more usable at 32 and slightly shorter developing times. When I used this combination of film/developer, I never got it to give me good shadow detail until I got down to an incident reading at 32. This can be a wonderful film when you get it sorted to your equipment and paper. I recall using 32, D76 1:1 @ 70F for 10 minutes with very gentle inversions for 1 minute and 2 gentle inversions per minute to completion. My eye went to this message as I have a large stash of PanF+ in 35mm and 120 in my freezer that has gone unused for many years and I am currently making use of it with some homebrew pyro concentrates that are giving me good initial results and speed (good shadow detail and controlled highlights). Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
roger_hicks1 Posted April 19, 2006 Share Posted April 19, 2006 Dear Tyler, My own inclination would be to go for the Ilford recommendation first -- why would they lie? -- then switch to less if you find the resulting negs too dense/contrasty. If you use the short time first and it doesn't work, you'll have thinner negs with less shadow detail. Of course a lot depends on how you rated the film and metered it. With spot readings of the shadows (and the shadow index on the spot meter), the full ISO speed should be no problem. With a through-lens meter or a grey card reading or an incident light reading (all of which are designed to give optimum exposure with slides, not negatives) I'd use EI 32 on a sunny day. Take a look at some of the free modules in The Photo School at www.rogerandfrances.com for more info on ISO speeds, brightness ranges, etc. Cheers, Roger Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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