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Anyone here shoot in Full manual mode camera and Flash?


jeffrey_gruskin

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I shoot manual outside and in dark halls where shooting aperture priority would give too long shutter speeds. If the light allows it, I shoot Av indoors because there are many different light levels most of the times. I do adjust for the scene in that case.
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My camera is set to M and I use Metz 60 CT-4 and CT-1 flash units that I manually adjust.

 

For the most part at a reception, when it's usually dark, I'm set about F/4-8 and around 1/30-1/50 and the flash is around 5.6/400 most of the time.

 

Of course, your mileage may vary. This attached pic is from Sunday's wedding, it rained and was nicely cloudy outside, and I bounced the flash.<div>00IKKs-32808684.jpg.9a113c1b7b56816b53e024cd810937f1.jpg</div>

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Much easier on manual-- especially the flash. Can't make a mistake. It is all footage. Will never over or under expose. On automatic, the flash is reading more than just footage. It's from all those years of testing film. Using a manual Norman. But it's always perfect exposure when you measure the distance. The 580, with a dome, on a overcast day = is perfect @ 7ft.. manual 1/16.. ISO 100.<div>00IKU8-32812284.jpg.9aa4673e0ed1e141f206572cda167b0d.jpg</div>
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The reason I started this thread was because as many with my 580Ex on ETTL I seem to get exposures all over the place, so I am going to start shooting everything in Manual and work on footage to subjects. It has been much more accurate in my testing. The gowns will tell me alot more after this weekends 2 weddings. In manual flash I am getting more punch out of the camera when needed.
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JEFFREy ::::

Yes, very consistant with manual--it will send out the same amount. Not reading a white dress, evaluate/average, etc....and trying to calculate the automatic parameters > in the camera itself. Once you know the manual ~ 7, 10, 12 feet ~ working distance of your flash...its a lot less brain work. Because of digital and CS2, I believe many would rather try and save their captured "improper" exposed image > with Photoshop. Instead of testing ?? With film we did not have that luxury. It was 80+ densities or custom work at the lab.

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Count me as an automatic guy. Both camera and flash.

 

I'll dial in exposure compensation on either or both as I see the need. Automatic doesn't have to mean letting the camera make the decisions.

 

I found it easier to get consistent results on manual. I found that I operate faster after learning what to expect from auto mode, and then making minor adjustments on the fly.

 

 

Eric

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Past a subject distance of maybe six-ten feet, manual ceiling bounced flash could be very consistent. However, when your subject is closer, some frontal spill from the bounced beam lands on them, making the flash exposure different. Some modifiers actually take the frontal spill of the bounced beam and either re-direct it (white card) or diffuse it further (LS). If you direct the head of the flash away from the subject, such as in wall bounce, and the elements stay the same distances from each other, manual bounced flash is probably very consistent.
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