Improvisational sheet film development

I've been getting the bits and pieces together to process 9x12 sheet

film for myself, since none of the local labs give me a lot of

confidence in their ability to improvise the film into 4x5 hangers, or

tray process it (those that will even attempt to process sheets that

aren't 4x5 or larger, that is). So, I've been prowling that auction

site where so much of our money flows...

 

I've gotten a Nikor dual 220 stainless tank, with reels; its internal

size is big enough to also handle 4x5 on the Nikor style sheet reel.

I've also gotten a (must be) old 122 size reel -- 90 mm between top

and bottom, as close as I can measure, which should be just right for

9x12 sheets. I'm working on a way to load mutliple sheets into the

spiral reel, either with spacers between sheets or some kind of thin

binding on the edges so they'll follow into the reel like roll film.

 

The question arises because, after buying these components in separate

auctions, I find the 122 reel is quite a bit smaller diameter than the

dual 220 tank. I know that extra space won't cause a problem due to

movement, as long as the tank is full of chemistry, but I'm concerned

about having an inch or more of movement in both height and diameter.

There should be room in there for a 35 mm reel along with the 122

reel, which would cut down the movement -- would I be okay putting a

piece of plastic tube down the centers of the reels to reduce the

sideward movement?

 

Alternately, does anyone know if the Nikor 4x5 adjustable stainless

reel is available separately from the tank (or have one they'd part

with for suitable inducement)? And what its diameter is?

Donald,<br>I know, you've already invested in some equipement, but...a JOBO 2521 MultiTank 2 with 2509 9x12/4x5 sheet film reel is the way to go. The combo will hold 6 sheets of either. The reel is adjustable. The tank has the magnetic base, requires 1200ml for 9x12 and 1500ml for 4x5. The web site says its not made for inversion processing because it would require too much chemistry but the tank has an inversion quanity chart on the side. I have two and they are easy to use and I get even results. The 2500 film and 2800 paper tanks are the same with different light trap systems. These sell for around $95 locally for tank and reel. The loader is not necessary if you can handle film well. <br><a href=http://www.jobo-usa.com/products/2500.htm>Tank 2nd. from left in picture</a>

Donald, why not use tray development? I thought it was going to be cantankerous when I started LF but I've found nothing can be simpler. Additionally, the investment in gadgetry is a low as can be. After doing tray development for several months, I have a hard time understanding why anyone wants to fool around with tanks, hangers, tubes, ect.

Well, I haven't invested that much -- the tank and 220 reels I have are items I'll use anyway, for developing the 120 I shoot in 3-4 other cameras (and probably more to come). The main problem, and the reason I don't already have the Jobo tank and reel combination, is that they always go beyond what I'm willing/able to pay at auction, and new price is worse. Worst case, I can make the pieces to roll process sheet film around the periphery of the tank I have, as David Nebenzahl has been doing with a paper drum and roller system; that would be very easy on chemistry supply, but I'd only be able to process about two sheets at a time.

 

Is there a problem with even development in the Nikor system? If so, why is it so desirable (he said, after watching one go to $170 at auction recently)?

I have to agree with Alex. I've not done the JOBO (SP?) thing, but did use hangers and tanks. Then I tried tray development. I screwed up some at first, but now I can almost do it my sleep, with consistent results, and no scratches. I use the same trays I do my prints, which results in a less cluttered darkroom. Almost too easy.

I like the Nikor tank. The reels are larger than 35mm/120/220 sized reels. I paid lots for it, but no regrets. The only modern system like it is Jobo, and I prefer stainless.

 

I also use trays for formats larger than 4x5", but if you're looking for an easy and inexpensive way in, there's no reason not to use them for 4x5". There are good instructions for tray development in Ansel Adams' _The Negative_.

<i>I like the Nikor tank. The reels are larger than 35mm/120/220 sized reels. I paid lots for it, but no regrets. The only modern system like it is Jobo, and I prefer stainless.</i><p>

 

Argh. I was afraid of that -- okay, it's a complete Nikor, a Jobo, or trays. Am I correct in what I've read that uneven development is a major problem with the square/rectangular sheet film daylight systems like Yankee? I can see how it would be difficult to get even agitation in that geometry, esepcially without considerable extra space around the film.<p>

 

<i>I also use trays for formats larger than 4x5", but if you're looking for an easy and inexpensive way in, there's no reason not to use them for 4x5". There are good instructions for tray development in Ansel Adams' _The Negative_.</i><p>

 

Trays, unfortunately, are at best a last resort for me. At least for the next year or two, my darkroom will be my bathroom, and while I can get the room adequately dark for even fast film with a little work, there's only one in the house and my wife insists on being able to use it for its originally constructed function with little notice -- I've promised her five minutes from knock to entry, which should be no problem in printing, but would be a serious problem five minutes into a twenty minute development in a tray. So, it's got to be a daylight system, and that means more time watching auctions for a Jobo -- and saving up the money -- unless I can make this 122 reel work in the dual 220 tank.<p>

 

So, back to one of the original questions -- I see lots of references to spindles in multiple reel stainless systems, so I don't know of a problem with putting a piece of plastic tube or rod through the centers of the reels. Adding a 35 mm reel on top of the 122 reel will fill the space, leaving only 5-10 mm at the top of the tank, and should (in conjunction with the spindle) prevent gross misalignment during inversion. I'll find a way to space or join the 9x12 sheets in the reeel -- are there any other known, major problems I'll need to watch for?<p>

 

Alternately, would there be a problem in fabricating a plastic spacer to go around the 122 reel to fill the space inside the tank? That would also reduce the amount of chemistry needed, which is, overall, a good thing...

Not necessarily trying to push my system, but why don't you consider using the Beseler (paper) Unidrum method? If cost is the issue, I got both the drum and roller base for $18 on a certain small online auction site recently. Seems like people are getting rid of stuff like this more quickly than it's being snapped up. And development results are very consistent.

 

I don't know; that idea of yours about stringing 9x12 sheets together on a reel, while it sounds intriguing, also seems pretty unwieldy. I'd be curious to see if you could pull that one off.

 

I don't like tray development because I haven't been able to do it without scratches (despite those who say they do it all the time). Guess I'm just a klutz, so it's the drum for me.

I've done 4x5 in 5x7 trays until I got an FR cut film tank from eBoo for a reasonable price. It takes up to 12 - 4x5 sheets and is adjustable down to 1-7/8 inch or so. The maximum length would be about 5-1/2 inches. Once it's loaded in the dark all of the processing can be done with the lights on.

<i>Not necessarily trying to push my system, but why don't you consider using the Beseler (paper) Unidrum method? If cost is the issue, I got both the drum and roller base for $18 on a certain small online auction site recently. Seems like people are getting rid of stuff like this more quickly than it's being snapped up. And development results are very consistent.</i><p>

 

Well, except for having to refix or rewash to get the rest of the antihalation dye off the sheet backs, right? B)<p>

 

Yes, that's a possibility, but then I have to build still more adapters before I can use that for 9x12, and I have to wait until I can find and buy the drum and roller before I can even start making the adapters. I could finish a diameter adapter to put the 122 reel in my 220 tank this weekend, if I had a dark box or bag to change the film in. Advanage of the drum, of course, is that I can use the same drum for 4x5 or even 8x10 if/when I get a bigger camera, so I'll probably watch for one.<p>

 

<i>I don't know; that idea of yours about stringing 9x12 sheets together on a reel, while it sounds intriguing, also seems pretty unwieldy. I'd be curious to see if you could pull that one off.</i><p>

 

What I have in mind for that one is one of two tricks. Either a) use precut tape strips stuck on the edge of counter, tank lid, or similar, narrow enough not to encroach on the image but wide enough to fold over, and fasten the sheets at the edges (ensures good sheet alignment, but would probably work better for plastic reels made for inserting the film endwise instead of the "curl and bend" method that fits stainless) or fabricate a number of spacers to insert in the reel between film sheets -- this is all mainly to prevent lapping the sheets over one another, of course, since gaps between do no harm.<p>

 

<i>I don't like tray development because I haven't been able to do it without scratches (despite those who say they do it all the time). Guess I'm just a klutz, so it's the drum for me.</i><p>

 

I think I could manage trays without scratches -- I'd probably wear gloves and just handle them by hand, rather than use tongs (I used to just put my hands in Dektol, but I gather that's less of a good idea with some specialty developers). What I see as the main snag with trays in general is separating the sheets for shuffle agitation; if I get two sheets stuck together, I ruin at least one image.<p>

 

And, of course, there's still the issue of maintaining home harmony by not blocking the bathroom for too long at a time; I can't just commit to using only developer/film/temperature combinations with five minute developing times; there are only a couple emulsions commercially available in 9x12 and I might find I don't like HC-110 for those emulsions.

I use both 4x5" and 9x12cm, as well as 5x7" and 13x18cm. I have a JOBO tank with the adjustable reel for 4x5 and 9x12, but use trays most of the time.

 

I have scratched a few negatives, but I'm getting better all the time...