tyrone lavigne

<p>If you're sure it's not your technique (ie. proper AF mode for the task at hand, fine tune applied, and fast enough shutter speed) then I'd probably lean towards upgrading the Tamron. I've had 2 copies: one on a D200, and another on a Canon 70D, in addition to using one on a friends 7D years ago. I was never happy with the results. Focus was iffy at best, which was common for the older Tamron lenses, but this seems to be resolved now with their newer stuff).<br> I also had a D7000 and I'd be comfortable shooting with one if I had to, and that it's perfectly capable of good results in the right conditions. So that being said I'd lean towards the newer Tamron 24-70, or if you can swing it a used Nikon 24-70mm G. Good lenses will make a huge difference even on older bodies, vs a newer/better body with so-so lenses. For me the 28-70mm f2.8 was a huge turning point for the D7000. The biggest question is what would your budget be? Depending on what that is the answer could go a dozen ways, from both a body and lens (refurb or used), to a high end lens, or a "better" body and decent lens, etc etc.</p>

<p>Curtains, rip-stop, tracing paper, various Lee/Roscoe diffusion, etc. They all work with varying effects, just depends on your intended use and if you plan on keeping it up permanently or just installing for shoots and then removing/storing elsewhere.</p>

<p>I'd also suggest the 35mm f1.8 DX. It's cheap, pretty fast, and in my experience much sharper at f1.8-3.5 :P<br> <br />All kidding aside, yeah...the kit lenses are capable of taking a photograph, but I've never been a fan of any of them outside of the long discontinued 18-70mm. Depends on your style of shooting though, ex. if you're always at f8 and not shooting contrasty scenes then sure...keep the kit lens. IF you aren't then I think primes are a good way to get into "better" glass fairly cheap (ex. 35, 50, 85, 180, etc). </p>

<p>Beauty dishes (at least the 20-22" variety) aren't that big. Assuming you're shooting one light portraits the B1 setup, a stand, and a dish in a bag is easily doable. I used to shoot in the desert with a similar setup years ago...would have to walk ~1 mile in sand with all the gear and it wasn't much trouble. Same with softboxes; as has been stated already, they break down fairly quickly. Some are even collapsible if you prefer (ie. like an umbrella). <br> Currently I'm lugging around a Speedotron 2403cx pack (~30lbs), 3 heads (x10lbs each), and depending on what I'm shooting that day: various reflectors, snoots, grids, softboxes, stands, etc. It's cumbersome for sure, but that's the trade-off for needing the strobes. At most it requires me to take 2 trips to and from my car to the studio or location. <br> So yeah, a B1 and a couple modifiers are doable IMO. I would suggest not skimping out on modifiers, for example going the ebay route and stocking up on "collapsible beauty dish" (aka an umbrella with a silver plate glued to the pole) or a bunch of cheap umbrellas. At that point you're not really getting the best out of the Profoto's anyway, so you might as well just go the strobist route at that point.</p>

<p>I assume you mean the G versions (although I have also used both D versions too); but in experience the focusing speed on the 1.4G was so slow, that I exchanged it immediately for another...only to confirm that that was in fact normal. On top of that, neither copy was terribly sharp (at least not for a prime) until ~f2.5-2.8. Exchanged that second one for a 1.8G and while the AF speed was marginally faster (still on the slower side) it did seem faster and it was a tad sharper. If you're talking about the older D versions, then the same applies, except the 1.8D is pretty snappy and quick as far as AF speed. <br /><br />Now full disclosure: I don't shoot sports, so there's that...and I'm not that into pixel peeping bokeh quality so take that for what it's worth. The AF speed may or may not be an issue for hockey, I just know that for shooting models traipsing around a studio it wasn't fast enough.</p>

<p>You can always angle a board, 40 deg. for example (think how a drafting table works) and lay your items flat, then put your camera on a tripod and angle down to photograph the items. They'll still look like they're flat on a table (technically they are), and you don't need to stand directly over them (also negating any chance of getting in the way of the lights). <br /><br />Mannequins are an option for sure, but there's a couple reasons to avoid them, the biggest being your concern already about needing multiple mannequins for everything if you sell a lot of different items. Then there's storage space on top of that for the multiple mannequins. They also aren't terribly cheap from what I've seen (usually running around $50-100 each for rough condition depending on size)</p>

<p>It depends on what system I'm using. All time favorite would probably be the 70-200mm f4L, razor sharp, fast focus, best beauty photos I've ever taken were with that lens (plus the cheap price doesn't hurt ;) )<br> <br />On Nikon I'd have to go with my newest acquisition and say the Tamron 35mm 1.8. This thing is ridiculously sharp, and the focus speed isn't too shabby either. Close 2nd would be the 85mm 1.4D (never got to use the G, I imagine it's even better)</p>

<p>Sounds like when I had one fail on me. Turned out to be the flash tube needed replacing. I ended up doing it 2x on SB600's a couple years back. Not terribly difficult (there's dozens of walkthroughs on the web) and if I remember correctly costs less than $10 for the tube.</p>

<p>With that much of a budget you'd probably be best served checking out the Strobist site, and see if working with speedlights will do what you need. Luckily with that small a workspace (4x4') speedlights should be doable. I'd go for 2 Yongnuo flashes (I've purchased them as low as $20 in excellent condition on ebay before) and 2 of the cheapie umbrella softboxes (~2x3'). Add a pair of cheap chinese radio triggers and 2 stands, umbrella brackets, and cheap sandbags and you're probably all in for about $150 on the low end, to about $300 if you can't find any deals.<br> <br />You want the softboxes because you wanted a larger, diffused light source to eliminate the "hard shadows". Another option would be to get a large scrim, or make one from nylon ripstop fabric at the local craft store. fire your lights through that to diffuse the light more. There's probably a dozen ways to do this, and you're probably get as many suggestions here lol, so I'd start by checking the strobist site first for tutorials. They're pretty good for working on a budget. <br /><br />The one thing I would not recommend: don't buy one of those cheapie lighting "kits" from amazon, ebay, etc that seem too good to be true (ie. 3 lights, stands, umbrellas, carrying case for $200). They're usually crap, and if they don't break within a month you'll likely be disappointed in their overall quality, consistency, or usability.</p>

<p>Depending on the size of your shooting space you can't beat either the aforementioned 35mm f1.8 or maybe even the 50mm f1.8. I went through a prime phase a couple years back, shot exclusively with the 35mm for a year, and the 50 for another year prior to that, shooting fashion as well.</p>

<p>In a perfect world the wardrobe stylist provides clothing. When I test with models I usually ask them to bring things, but mostly because I tend to shoot casual basics (ie. jeans, tshirts, tank tops, blouses, etc) that 99.9% of models wear in their daily life and are likely to already have.<br> <br />There are however times when there are specifics that are either something unlikely for them to have, or something I'd rather not risk them bringing something not-quite what I was looking for. In those cases I prefer to look for a stylist, or if all else fails buy it myself if it's not super expensive. <br> <br />In my experience, and from working with <strong>a lot </strong>of models over the past couple years...they prefer not to get crazy mood boards with super specific clothing requests if they're going to have to bring stuff. Pretty much all of them will agree that a stylist is preferred as well. </p>

<p>You can do them all with beauty dish, both with grids or socks, and without (depending on which photo). Collapsible reflector or v-flats for fill (or subtraction), but that's about it.</p>