newmurph
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Ugly grid pattern on my slide film scans
newmurph replied to newmurph's topic in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
They are roughly 4-5 MB at 3089x2048 -
Ugly grid pattern on my slide film scans
newmurph replied to newmurph's topic in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
Yes, I did order mounting. -
Ugly grid pattern on my slide film scans
newmurph replied to newmurph's topic in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
I think you're right. They said it could be from underexposure or the scanning, but check out the other images I posted. I don't think that's underexposure unless the scanner thinks every dark area is underexposed. -
Ugly grid pattern on my slide film scans
newmurph replied to newmurph's topic in The Wet Darkroom: Film, Paper & Chemistry
They said it could happen because of underexposed photos OR something in the scanning process. The roll has images that are average and overexposed. None are so underexposed that they are completely washed out but the grid pattern still appears in the darker areas of the photos. I know it's slide film film with very little latitude and there's always a battle between exposing for highlights or shadows, but this is just ridiculous. I have other shots of the same plant where the petals are completely white and overexposed yet the shadows still have the grid. I've also had enhanced scans done on other slide film's and haven't seen this.
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TheDarkroom.com uploaded my batch of enhanced scans today. I checked them out, and like 90% set of just my Ektachrome scans have this grid pattern all over the image. I have a set of Ultramax 400 and Ektar 100 enchanced scans from the same order that are totally fine. What in god's name happened to my Ektachrome?
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100% sure. The sound the VR makes is a high pitched sound like you would hear from a TV. Its just a tone. This sound is clearly gears grinding away at work trying to autofocus. It is the same sound as regular autofocusing, but I am in manual. Something is happening where the camera is trying to move the gears, but it can't because it is in manual.
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Does anyone know what could be wrong here? Today my 55-200mm lens was switched to manual focusing, but when the the shutter release was pressed, it started to try and auto-focus. The focus ring wasn't moving, but I could hear the camera trying to autofocus. Could this be the lens or the D5100 body itself? Recently I have also been getting more shutter release errors as well, though mostly in live view and in low light settings with the camera. Does anyone here have any experience with these two possibly related problems? I guess with a 5 year old camera, these problems might not be so unexpected...
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Color banding on phone screen, but not on PC monitor? Can you see?
newmurph replied to newmurph's topic in Beginner Questions
<p>Thank you! Its an Android, but wait, theres more! I forgot one small detail. When I said "transfered to my phone" I meant uploaded to Flickr, viewed mobily from Flickr on my phone, and downloaded from Flickr. Both the download and the Flickr link looked the same. THEN, I viewed this post on my phone, and the photo has marginal amounts of banding compared to what came from Flickr, so I transfered the photo via USB to phone and it was about the same.</p> <p>So, I'm thinking Flickr is compressing the images too much, resulting in this banding I'm seeing, and the Android's AMOLED screen also can't correctly display colors, adding to the problem. There is still a little gradienting banding (?) on my PC monitor in the upper left of the photo, but I think in the future that could be solved by increasing my exposure.</p> -
Exposure Date: 2016:07:19 23:11:41; Make: NIKON CORPORATION; Model: NIKON D5100; ExposureTime: 6/1 s; FNumber: f/4; ISOSpeedRatings: 200; ExposureProgram: Manual; ExposureBiasValue: 0/6; MeteringMode: Pattern; Flash: Flash did not fire; FocalLength: 24 mm; FocalLengthIn35mmFilm: 36 mm; Software: Adobe Photoshop CC 2015.5 (Windows); -
<p>I transfered this image to my phone today to see how it would look on a mobile device and I noticed a lot of color banding. Some clouds have a green or maroon hue to them, but I can only just make it out on my monitor and wouldn't have noticed if I hadn't put it on my phone in the first place. </p> <p>Can anyone else see what I see?</p> <p>Is it just the way the AMOLED screen displays color on a smartphone, or is there something wrong with my photo? Perhaps it could have used more exposure? This is a processed image about .5 of an EV lower than the original.</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18263194-lg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="993" /></p><div></div>
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Panoramas: How to retain sense of height?
newmurph replied to newmurph's topic in Beginner Questions
<p>Les,<br /> Are you talking about a second row on the top or bottom, or shooting verticaslly AND horizontally?</p> <p>Patrick,<br /> This is true, but I'm wondering if shooting wide and horizontally is making the storm look further away than it really was.</p> <p>Everyone,</p> <p>The scene doesn't have a lot of contrast and it is also dimly lit. Would I polishing a turd here to try and lighten the shadows and lower the overall exposure to make the details in the clouds clearer?</p> <p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18249828-lg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="553" /></p><div></div>
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<p>I'm finding that when I make panorams, in this case storm clouds being the subject, the storms looks massive and really high above me, but when I actually stitch the panorama together, the image looks too flat and the clouds look too distant. How can I retain the real life perspective?<br> This image is comprised of 13 horizontal images shot at 18mm. Is this why the storm looks so far away and small compared to what I saw in real life? Would shooting more verticle images at longer focal length help retain the sense of size?<img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18249820-lg.jpg" alt="" width="1500" height="750" /></p><div></div>
