matthias_meixner2

<p>That might have been caused by concentrated sunlight. Did you mount a lens-cap when not in use? If not, this might have happened when the camery was laying about and not during shooting.</p>

<p>The 24-104 f/4 L is a great lens. However, on your APS-C body it is not that wide. This is true for all lenses that start at 24mm or longer. So if you need to cover the wide angle, then you can either combine it with an ultrawide lens such as the EF-S 10-22, or look at a lens starting with a shorter focal length.</p>

<p>While the flange distance does not allow using FD lenses on Canon SLR bodies using adaptors without optical elements, it should be possible to create pure mechanical adaptors for mirrorless bodies. But even then, it would only be worth for "expensive" FD lenses.</p>

Consider the weight and size. Even the worst lens in your backpack is better than the best lens that you left at home due to size/weight.

<p>Why do you care? If it takes great photos why worry?</p>

<p>So the question is: Which lens is capable of delivering the required resolution?</p>

Remove the lens and the SD-card and see if the battery still drains. If you have luck the problem lies outside the camera.

What about ImageBrowser Ex? This is the successor of both ZoomBrowser and ImageBrowser.

<p>Better than rinsing it with distilled water would be to use some alcohol since that absorbs remaining water and dries much more quickly than water. So drying the camera would be dramatically sped up which reduces the time water can damage the camera. However, you will have to find some alcohol that does not damage the plastic used for making the camera. Ethanol or isopropyl alcohol might be candidates, they are commonly used for cleaning the sensor. But before applying them to the whole camera research the web whether someone else already did this.<br> <br />I know that this process has successfully been applied to mobile phones that have been dropped into water. So maybe it would also work for cameras.</p>

<p>There is a custom function that enables noise reduction. Just after taking the image the camera takes another image using the same parameters, just with the shutter closed. This image now only contains sensor noise. This is substracted from the image to reduce noise. See here for more details: http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Dark-frame_subtraction</p>

<p>I have only shot one wedding so far (I am no professional). Most shots were done using a 60D + 24-105L IS. A 70-200 would have been too long. Also consider that you have only one body. Changing lenses takes time and has the risk of losing some shots. Therefore, reducing lens changing by selecting a lens with the most versatile range is a good idea.<br> <br />I prefer shooting without flash since using flash changes the atmosphere of the scene. For this high ISO and IS is required.<br> <br />The 70D would give you not only higher ISO but also a better viewfinder.</p>

<p>It could be the case that the process of reading the analog pixel value itself induces some noise to the other pixels. That would mean that the 5Ds has more noise at the same ISO setting than the 7D despite of the same pixel size.<br> I guess we have to wait to answer this question until someone actually compares the noise level of 5Ds and 7D using real image data.</p>

<p>There is another solution: If the object is not too fragile just throw it up or drop it and shoot it while in flight.</p>