lafon

Hello, This camera and lens are sold, thank you!

Hello, This is a very nice Canon F-1 35mm film camera that comes with a excellent Vivitar 55mm f/2.8 1:1 macro lens. This Canon F-1 has a nice used patina with some scuffs, scratches, brassing on the edges of the body and finder, and some small dings, but nothing that would affect functionality of the camera. The finder is clean and clear, with no signs of haze or fungus. I did not get around to testing this camera with film, and took the previous owner at his word that it was working properly. Since I purchased the camera, I had a new set of top quality light seals and a mirror cushion installed, and the light meter was checked and the switch contacts cleaned. The meter appears to work well, and the readings coincide closely with my Voigtlander VC light meter. There is a fresh zinc-air battery installed, and a new spare battery will also be included. The shutter speeds seem to be working fine gauging by sight and sound of the mechanism. The film advance works smoothly, and the film counter indicates properly. The entire camera is very clean inside and out, and comes from a smoke free home. The Vivitar 55mm, 2.8 lens is in excellent condition. This lens is in Canon FD mount. The exterior shows some signs of use, but it looks wonderful overall. The rubber focus ring is also in very nice shape on this one, which is hard to find in this condition. The glass has no scratches or damage, but looking close I can see some light dust and what may be a bit of light haze inside near the periphery of the glass. No fungus detected. I used this lens often on an E-M1, and on my Canon A-1 film camera, and my own tests and comparisons reveal it to be every bit as sharp as the Olympus 60mm 2.8 macro, or the new 7-Artisans 60mm 2.8 macro, although the vivitar renders a slightly warmer image. Read the reviews on this lens and you'll find it to be praised as one of the better vintage macros for mirrorless cameras. It goes to 1:1 magnification without an extension tube. The focus on this one feels a little heavily damped, but is very smooth. The aperture works precisely, and I see no signs of oil or anything on the blades. No adapter is included, but I use and recommend a K&F Concepts adapter with this lens if you want one. This lens includes the hard to find original metal lens cap, and a rear cap. I am asking $200 for the camera and lens together as a set, and includes Priority Mail or FedEx ground shipping in the USA and the PayPal fee. I will package this very carefully, and I will mail it out quickly for you. If I can help with any questions, please let me know. Thank you

HLD-9 grip is sold, Thank you!

E-M1 II has been sold, thank you! HLD-9 grip still available.

New grip prices: $155 includes Priority Mail or FedEx ground in the USA and the PayPal fee, or $150 including USA shipping via non fee payment; PayPal friends, Google Wallet, etc. *If grip is purchased with camera above: price would only be $140.*

New price on camera: $1060 includes Priority Mail or FedEx ground in the USA and the PayPal fee. or $1030 including USA shipping via non fee payment; PayPal friends, Google Wallet, etc. Thank you, :)

SOLD, Thank you!

Hello, This Olympus 75mm 1.8 lens is in gorgeous, like new condition. Without a doubt, one of the sharpest lenses that I have ever used from any system. The lens glass and coatings look flawless with no scratches or damage. All functions are working properly with no issues. The exterior finish of this lens looks just like new, with no marks or blemishes. This lens is super clean, and from a smoke free home. This lens will come neatly packed in the original box, and will include the original front and rear lens caps, and the instruction booklet. $460 includes Priority Mail or FedEx ground shipping in the USA and the PayPal fee. I will package this very carefully, and I will mail it out quickly for you. If I can help with any questions, please send me a private message or an email. Thank you

Hello, I am selling off most of my Olympus micro 4/3 cameras and lenses to help with my return to college for a career change. If you are interested or have any questions, please feel free to email or send me a private message. This Olympus EM1 Mark II camera is in beautiful condition. All camera functions, buttons, and dials are working properly with no issues. The only marks that I can find on the exterior are a couple of fine scratches in the paint on the lower side of the camera below the USB and HDMI port cover that may have come from a RRS base plate, as shown in the second photo, otherwise the camera looks wonderful overall. The rear LCD screen does have a couple of tiny marks and a small faint scratch on the surface, but they are very hard to notice. The viewfinder glass looks excellent with no scratches or blemishes. This camera has been gently used, and has a shutter count of about 7,200 shots at the moment. This is a USA version camera, and it is super clean and from a smoke free home. This will come neatly packed in the original Olympus box, and will include all of the original accessories, including the body cap, hot shoe cover, original battery, battery charger and cord, neck strap, Olympus FL-LM3 flash unit with carrying pouch, USB cable, cable support clip, and the instruction booklet. $1085 includes Priority Mail or FedEx ground in the USA and the PayPal fee. or $1055 including USA shipping via non fee payment; PayPal friends, Google Wallet, etc. *Add the grip below for only $150 more* ------------------------------- This genuine Olympus HLD-9 battery grip for the EM1 Mark II cameras is in beautiful condition. All functions are working properly. It was used very sparingly, and it still looks and feels like new. I do not have the box, but it will include the original cover for the contacts, and the instruction booklet. If grip is purchased separately: $165 includes Priority Mail or FedEx ground in the USA and the PayPal fee, or $160 including USA shipping via non fee payment; PayPal friends, Google Wallet, etc. *If grip is purchased with camera above: price would only be $150.* ------------------------------- I will package this very carefully, and I will mail it out quickly for you. If I can help with any questions, please let me know. Thank you

<p>Hello friends,<br> I have a Bronica S2A that I enjoy very much, but that clearly needs some focus issues addressed. I have already re-foamed the focus screen, and once again have the focus screen sitting square on the shims where it belongs. Wide open focus improved, but is still slightly out of focus, and I now suspect the mirror mounting.<br> With the lens removed, I can see that the mirror is indeed slightly loose in the black metal frame. Touching gently with a wooden tool, I can rock the mirror slightly inside of its mounting frame by pressing alternate corners of the mirror; and the mirror stays in the rocked position without returning to a position flat against the metal mounting frame.<br> I have read through many, many posts about the S2A, and ran across a few mentions of mirror foam that was used to help mount or position the mirror on these cameras. If anyone has experience with where this foam is located (under front of frame that holds mirror, or under mirror?), and how to remove the mirror for foam replacement, I would be grateful. I see four screws on the face of the mirror frame, but I am not going to remove them before I check for advice.<br> Also, I would like to locate an affordable or free copy of the service manual for this camera, and I am hoping that one of you can help me.<br> Thank you in advance,<br> Daniel</p>

Hello, I have owned and used both the 85mm PC-E, and the older 85mm PC lenses simultaneously, although I used them on D700 bodies. I had to make a choice between the two lenses based on my needs, so I made a little comparison list for myself to help me decide. Perhaps it will help a little with your decision. If you do not plan to use the lens for portraiture or any photography that might involve quicker handling, then the older 85 PC might fulfill your requirements. The older 85 PC can be used on a bellows, on non CPU extension tubes, or even with an older film camera since the aperture is purely mechanical, while the newer PC-E needs the camera to provide power for the aperture for each shot. The newer version may work fine with the Kenko type tubes with the full compliment of electrical contacts, but I did not try it yet. So with the older model, one would set the aperture, and open the stop down button to focus wide open, and then depress the stop down before the shot to stop down the aperture, and allow the camera to meter properly. It's a little slow, but with practice, it tends to become second nature. If you forget to hit the stop down plunger before hitting the shutter, your exposure will incorrect. With the newer PC-E, photographers are spoiled because the lens is always wide open for quick focusing, and it automatically stops down the aperture for you when the shutter is pressed. This makes a huge difference when any type of quick shooting may be needed, because one can just concentrate on focusing, and there is always a bright finder to look through. These features allow the 85 PC-E to do double duty as a manual focus portrait or nature lens depending on your focus skills. The stop down button on the new lens holds the aperture to the desired setting for previewing depth of field. Between the two lenses, the newer version is more hand holdable, and operates very similar to the Ziess ZF lenses that I am used to. The newer PC-E lens is also physically smaller than the older lens in terms of girth. This makes the newer lens easier to carry, but those with larger hands may actually like the ergonomics of the older version instead. I like the larger control and locking knobs on the older lens, and found the knobs on the newer lens to be too small to use comfortably. The tilt movements on both lenses seemed comparable, but I found the shift movement on the newer lens to have more play than the movement on the old lens. With the newer lens, when the shift lock was loosened, I could actually see light through the shift plane interface, so the lock always had to be kept at least slightly snug to prevent this. The newer PC-E lenses have a weather seal at the mount, but both lenses by nature are prone to dust intrusion due to the movements. I would be cautious using either in wet or dusty environments. The tilt and shift planes of the older lens can be easily orientated to parallel or perpendicular at home or in the field with the proper screwdriver and some patience. The newer lens appears to need a new ribbon cable according to what I've read, so you may have to send the lens into a shop if you need to change the orientation on the PC-E lenses. The new lens has the Nano coat on the elements, but it is very hard for me to see a difference in the photos I took. Some of my images with the newer lens, may have better color saturation, and perhaps a tad more contrast, but it may have just been the different shooting situations I was using them in. I do not think I could easily differentiate between images from either versions of the lens. Both lenses are very capable of making outstandingly sharp images, and both lenses likely out resolved the D700s I was/am using them on. I do have more portraits and family snaps from the newer lens that I may have missed if I had the older lend mounted at the time, simply do to the extra time required to control the older lens. The price difference is certainly a factor, one can do a lot with the money saved on the old version of the lens, but again, how you use the lens, may have more weight on your decision. I hope that some of this helps. My fingers are tired ;) D. Lafon PS. I should add that while using the lens movements, neither lens interfered with the prism overhang on my D700s. However, it is possible to pinch your fingers in spots between the camera and lens if not careful.

<p>Hello,<br> I hope that you have solved your problem, but if not, here is a quick test to see if your camera may be the culprit. Set up your "Non-CPU Lens" in your cameras menu, to the 35mm f/2 setting. Next, with no lens attached to the camera, turn your camera on, and enable the Non-CPU 35mm f/2 lens. With the aperture follower tab at rest you should see f/2 displayed on the LCD. If you slowly move the follower tab counter clockwise, when viewing from the front of the camera, you should see the f numbers incrementally increase on the LCD to about f/32 at the far end of the aperture follower tab's travel. <br> If values are skipped as you progress through the f-numbers, the problem could be with dirt or corrosion on the aperture contact plate (called the F-FO Base Plate) or the brush contacts attached to the aperture follower tab.<br> …and while dirt on the contacts can be an issue, the Aperture F-FO Base Plate is a variable resistor made on a thin, very fragile, porcelain-like backer that can crack very easily. I have replaced two of these F-FO Base plates, one on a D700 and one on a D300 camera, that were not reading AI lenses correctly, and the hairline cracks in the base plates were so imperceptible that they could only be seen with a magnifier. The cameras with cracked plates showed very inconsistent f number readings and flickering between high f-numbers as you described. The two cameras I repaired also had spots where 'FEE' would display in the middle of the follower tab's travel.<br> <em>(I'll attach photo of a cracked D300/D700 F-FO base plate and a new one for a D7100. The damaged baseplate only had one crack while in the camera, the rest of it broke upon removal because the piece is attached with very strong tape</em>.)<br> I hope that this helps, and I wish you the best.<br> D. Lafon<br> <img src="http://i840.photobucket.com/albums/zz321/jeepology/JZ4Q1784_zpsc80b913f.jpg" alt="" /></p>