joseph_e._marsh__jr.

I have a problem that I have never seen before and have a hard time understanding. Perhaps someone might have an idea what might have caused the problem? As you can see from the two black and white scans. the film itself "picked up" images off the paper backing, or conversely, images from the paper backing migrated onto the film. Other negatives were oddly "cloudy" or rather "speckled" or "dusted." In some cases, as with Scan A, both effects are visible. At first I thought the problem was due to ageing, because some of the film was twenty-five or thirty-year old Efke, but the scans in question are fresh Rollei RPX100. Scan A was shot in Saudi Arabia; it was 45C / 100F give or take, but due to the very low humidity (7% RH), it wasn't terribly oppressive, and so long as the camera was shielded from the sun, it didn't become noticeably hot to the touch. Scan B, however, was shot in utterly dissimilar conditions, indoors in Poland; the temperature was approximately 68F. Could these effects have been caused by airport x-rays? The film had passed through as many as a half-dozen or more international airports, in checked baggage, not carry-on. Some fifteen rolls of film were ruined in this fashion. Any idea what happened here? Thanks, Joseph

<p>Hello Mamiya C33 Users,<br> I've a somewhat peculiar issue/question that I could probably resolve quickly and easily without having to post questions were I not marooned --temporarily-- in Saudi Arabia, where analog cameras and accessories are about as exotic as moon rocks. I'd be very grateful if someone helped me solve this problem.<br> Issue/problem being: <br> I would like to shoot my C33 using a shutter release cable. The one I have is a no-name generic thing, a bargain-basement piece of junk from China, but functional nonetheless, EXCEPT when I fit it to the C33. The "pin" that comes out of the firing end is evidently too short --it simply doesn't depress the shutter far enough to fire the shutter. Either the pin is too short or the cable mechanism isn't stout enough --as you C33 users are aware, the mechanism on the C33 body that triggers the cock on the lens is a pretty stout affair. <br> Is anyone aware of a particular brand-name shutter release cable that definitely works with the C33, for example, one with a notable long pin, or whose mechanism is particularly strong and can push that metal lever down with real force?<br> Thanks,<br> joe</p> <p> </p>

<p>Hello People,<br> I'm trying, for the first time, to use a Polaroid back on my Bronica Sq-Ai. I've some Fuji FP100C loaded into the back, and the back is properly attached.<br> But, I have no success in getting the shutter to fire. Batteries are new. <br> Anybody willing to do an excruciatingly detailed step-by-step walk-through on how to expose a frame of this Polaroid film, including the proper settings for the mirror and multiple-exposure lever (N, S & C)...?<br> I would be most grateful!<br> joe</p>

<p>Readers:<br> I've a question I have yet to see addressed on the site. I've a Gossen Luna Pro S exposure meter. As users of this meter know, there is a translucent plastic bulb that can be slid to one side to accommodate a spot metering adapter / fixture that can be fitted to the front of the meter, or it can be kept in place when not using the spot meter adapter / fixture.<br> In the very middle of the front pane of the meter, in the precise spot where the translucent bulb would sit, is a circular piece of glass through which the light enters the meter. <br> I somehow managed to crack this piece of glass.<br> The big question is, will this crack affect the performance of the meter?<br> Thanks in advance,<br> joe</p><div></div>

<p>Readers,<br> I've Polaroid back for a Bronica SqAi. The back features only the words "Zenza Bronica SQ-i" in raised letters on the dark slide side of the back, and the word"Polaroid" in white letters on the left hand side of the back. The outside of the back features no other identifying marks or language.<br> The exposure pane --the aperture covered by the dark slide-- <strong>is square.</strong> <br> When facing the back as it would sit on the camera body, the <strong>ASA/ISO selector</strong> sits on the top of the back on the left-hand side. The selector features speeds<strong> from 26 to 6400.</strong><br> My question is, does anyone know what SPECIFIC "Impossible Project" films are available for use with this back, and what Polaroid films might still be available?<br> I'm unable to make heads or tails of the Impossible site --for example, do ANY of the Impossible 600 series films serve as substitute for ANY Polaroid film in the 600 range?<br> Thanks,<br> joe</p> <p> </p>