georgejonesie

how well would the fm10 work on the sigma 150-600 or the af-p? seem awfully cheap on the ebay, and most come with the complete factory kit and gear....

im not sure if its just the light meter or just the CPL.... but when i am using 200 iso gold color/color plus the film comes back very washy color looking if i get the needle in the top half of the circle when i balance it out. but looks ok when i only use the bottom of the circle for balancing. pro image 100 iso merely seems to be BRIGHTER to the eyes when i use the top half, but normal/slightly muted when i use the bottom. gold color/color plus 400 is best when using the bottom of the needle. especially in bright light. in bright light the top half of the circle commonly makes the scans seem faded. trix400, top half makes the lighter colored spots seem brighter, and i dont feel that ilford c41 black and white cares either way. i havent used my lenses without a CPL since i saw the difference it made to leaves and sky

the ilford site was useful, however several different issues can be mistaken for each other... it all counts on wether or not the camera was properly exposing the film...

how do the light meters on the f5 f6 f100 compare to the d7500?

use a hoya cpl. Im asking because i get vastly different results from how i place the needle in the circle and just wondered if it was my cpl causing an issue.

I was hoping for a bit better set of news.. all i have is that sigma and af-p

is there any KNOWN issue or tendency of the light meter to give false results when used with a circular polarizer?

what nikon film cameras are actually able to use the modern nikon f mount and auto focus lenses, like the sigma 150 - 600?

ive only opened two cans of film. Fomapan and arista edu 200 iso..... the fomapan has foma pan in the factory markings on the film... and the arista edu just has the ultra 100 kind of odd tho.

how common is it for the canister label to NOT match whats actually inside the canister? Is it common for certain brands or just a "oops sucks to be you" when you realize the canister said 200 iso, and yo shot the camera set at 200 iso, but when the film is developed you THEN notice the film itself is actually labeled as 100 iso?

well in the kodak paperwork for d76 it says put the solution into the developing tank, THEN put the film reels in. the stop bath and fixer IS something id like to shimmy away from as i get going. Less parts of the process to help me figure things out. whats worse is i realized that i shot my arista edu 200 iso film as iso 200, but the film itself is marked as ultra 100 iso.... lovely people putting the wrong stuff in the film canister...

its different,,,, it works after a fashion. but i think we can agree its more reliable then other concoctions like using coffee and beer and those that have used urine to develop film smells better too

badly written manuals are one thing, but education and skill is another. for example in my car i kind of need to replace two little things that control how the hot and cold air mixes in my heating and cooling system.. the ONLY way the mechanics "know" how to do it requires 800$ and removing the entire dashboard and several large components... when it can be done in a 1/10ths of the time from the bottom and not remove anything. except theyd have to be on their hands and knees using two different extension bits on their wrench

arista edu 100 an somewhat old vivitar 75-210mm lens and a ftb1

0028 and 0036 is pretty much the typical one of the role showing the white streak on the bottom, or what was the top during development. Fomapan 100 0058 is typical of what i got with the arista edu ultra 100 developing at home with the cinestill monobath wasnt too bad, a learning curve to it. but the arista can is the one i had to rip apart. Not fun at all. and i did try a regular bottle lid puller but to thin and tight to get a grip.