diegobuono

Sorry for the (great) delay in answering, finally the scanner went to Hasselblad Sweden and came back ok. I do not know what the problem was.

Ok it is perfectly clear and to be honest I don't know how I could put such a silly question (and done such a mistske in overexposing 2 stop and more to compensate the dark 2nd exposure) after more than 20 years of film using :-(

Thank you all. I tried different exposure with different exposure (from normal to ecerxposed) and using two different film magazine (Hasselblad). Unfortunatly the two location are 60km apart and the two exposure have to be made 4 hours apart. Not simple at all. It took me several attempt during several days. Let's hope something good is on the film. I should ask before next time ;-)

Thank you Tom, I will let you know how it will end.

Hi All, I have a question regarding the double exposure technique: I want to photograph two subject that have a very different background; in every subject the background is the sky but in one exposure is a normal daytime sky (normal to bright sky), in the other exposure is the night sky (total black, only the subject is illuminated). Does the final picture will show an "in between" sky or the black of the night sky will win over the daytime sky and I will end up with a total black background? I also purposedly overexposed the picture with the daytime sky, in the hope to lighten a bit the black sky of the second picture, but I am not sure of the result I will obtain. Thank you in advance. Diego

Thank you Tom! Just another question: it seems to me that the baffle should rest at about 45° regardless of the position of the camera (facing down or pointed at the sky), how to avoid that the flexible material let the baffle moving up and down depending how you move the camera? If the camera is pointed at the sky the baffle could bend back towards the shutter and not be pushed up by the secondary mirror.

Thank you Tom for your replay. If I find a cloth shutter material (even from others cameras shoul be ok, isn't it?) I could try to make it myself, in this case wich kind of glue do you recommend to use? Do you know other kind of cloth that are ok instead of shutter curtain cloth? Probably it is possibile to glue the baffle on the metal plate without removing it from the body (it seems to me it is firmly glued on the body and I fear to damage something if I try to detach it), isn't it? Thank you. Diego

It is clear to me that one part of the baffle is connected to the thin metal part glued just above the shutter curtain and the rubbery piece flexes; what is not clear to me is: does the baffle (the plastic part that came apart) is attached to the mirror too? If yes, how is attached to it? If not, how does the baffle lift up when the mirror goes up?

Today it happened to me too on my 203FE. The piece of plastic jammed with the shutter curtain but after I removed it the camera apparently started working again (finger crossed! I will discover when I will have my film processed). The strange thing is that the official Hasselblad Italian Repair Center changed this part on my request 3 and half years ago, after I read this thread and this one too: Hasselblad heartbreak Apparently it is a common problem. I wanted it changed and checked because I bought this 203 FE camera body second hand from KEH as a back-up of my primary 203FE body and noticed that the flexible foam was cracked. Since then I shot less than 150 rolls, not much, don't you think? Strange enough I never had problem in the previous 11 years of use of my first 203FE body bought used in 2005 (in that occasion that body too was serviced and that part have been changed but since then I never used, only exercized once in a while). I will have it replaced again (€€€) by the Hasselblad repair center (the repairman in the past told me he would not sell me the spare part) but I fear to have the problem again in the near future, also because I don't know if the spare part he uses is the old one or the new one (Hasselblad at one point changed the material).

Will the CFV II be available as digital back only? Or it will be available only coup,ed with the 907X? The Hasselblad WEB site it's not clear on this matter and I suspect they will sell the back only coupled with the 907X (so this combo could lead the custoner to buy X lenses).

You can use it on the 203FE by using a CF lens (using the lens shutter) and connecting the digital back to the synchro flash jack on the lens; you can use without tue battery in the camera body (obviously the light meter does not work). The modification of the 203 FE is required to use the digital back with the focal plane shutter in the body, with CF lenses set in F mode or with F lenses (that, ad you know, don't have lead shutter).

I did not know about the possibility of using the 203FE at 1/90" without the battery, no mention of this in the user manual.

So it could be a problem of the shutter mechanism that need to be exercized. May be some problem of lubricant. My first 203FE (bought used) after sitting unused for sometime did not open the focal plane shutter if used in C mode and after some attempt the focal planeshutter open but did not synchronize with the shutter in the lens (resulting in unexposed frame). The hasselblad repair center dismantled the body and found that a sticky liquid had penetrated inside. After clean and lube the body was ok (even if I sent back to the seller because in the meantime I found another in overall better condition). This is the thread I am referring to: 203FE focal plane shutter problem

So the problem could be in the back that do create interference with the body, but it is strange that 2 different backs show the same problem, so the problem could also be in the body (electronic circuit) that for some reason goes in error in comunicating with the back. I would try a different "E" back and see if the problem arise again: if not, the problem is in the back that must be serviced; if yes, the problem is in the body. If the latter you could: - keep using it with "A" type backs or turnig the "E" type backs into "A backs" by taking the contact; - get an estimation for fixing the body (if the electronic circuit is still available as a spese part; if yes I suspect it will be expensive. Good luck. Let us know.

I use an Heliopan RG715 filter that I suppose is similar to your Hoya R72. Give it a try. Read the light on green folige or mid tone subject using the lighmeter set to 12 iso; first time bracket the exposure at 9 iso and 25 iso. Then, with the experience, you'll naile the exposure without the need of bracketing.