dick_chandler2

Place the focus point where you want it, go to custom settings f4 and turn focus-point lock on, and it's fixed. To unfix it, just turn f4 off.

Search for "Schneideritis." It seems to be a fairly common problem involving the flaking of the paint used around the circumference of lens elements to reduce flare. https://www.largeformatphotography.info/forum/showthread.php?152105-What-is-quot-Schneideritis-quot-or-What-are-those-white-specks-in-my-lens

I'll second Robert's opinion. I replaced the AF-S with the AF-P a couple of years ago. The AF-S wasn't awful, but the AF-P is markedly better, especially at the long end. I'm not a great fan of Ken Rockwell, but his opinions of the AF-P comport with my experience. I use it on my D850 and on a Z7 via the original FTZ. I think you'll be happy with it.

I think you're right. It looks like the capital I in the Ihagee logo engraved on Exaktas and Exas. Thanks for the Fraktur reference; it's new to me.

Just a thought - is the shutter speed/aperture interlock button on the aperture ring depressed or stuck as you try to change the shutter speed? The f/4 - f/22 range on the aperture ring matches the shutter speed range you mention if the lens is set to, say, 1/60th at the half-stop detent between f/5.6 and f/8.

The CPP2 (and the CPA2, which I have) has a circulating pump as well as a drain valve. There's no need to lift the thing to empty it. Mine keeps very stable temperatures. The CPP2 adds a digital temp display along with a cold-water solenoid valve to drop the water temperature below ambient. I'm really happy with mine. Jobo's still in business in the US. Manuals and other information are at www.jobo-usa.com

Looks like a 41076 crank for a C-series back, according to Nordin. It apparently attaches to the winding key. There's on on ebay: Hasselblad 41076 Quick Winding Crank for Film Magazine 12 | eBay

<p>Looks like it's for use with a CFV 16 Mp back.<br> http://www.adorama.com/RecommendFor/hsfsv16mp.html</p>

<p>James Lager (Leica - An Illustrated History) says this about the Elmax (p 27 of Vol II):<br> "Occasionally the Anastigmat/Elmax is found in an interchangable mount, even though such a configuration did not exist as a catalogued or codeworded item. These interchangable mount lenses are the result of the conversion of the Leica A to later specifications."<br> He has pictures of an Elmax in interchangeable mount at pages 28 and 29. Looks just like the OP's.</p>

<p>My MP came with two caps, both metal. One is like the M6 caps, with a knurled edge, and the other has a slot in it for tightening with, say, a coin (like the Nikon F2 and F3 battery caps).</p>

<p>Camerapedia claims it's four elements in three groups. <br> http://camerapedia.wikia.com/wiki/Minolta_A<br> My Wards 1958 camera catalog says the same thing. Not exactly an authoritative source, but it's a lot of fun to look at (they carried everything from Brownies to Leicas to Rolleis to Speed Graphics).</p>

<p>If you can find one, Nikon made an "anti-cold" battery pack, the DB-2. You put it inside your coat to keep the batteries warm, and it connects to the F3's battery chamber via a cable.</p>

<p>It's a very lightweight and thin piece of black plastic. When it breaks, it's very loose, sort of like having a loose bracelet on your wrist. Unless you know exactly what to look for, you can barely tell it's missing.<br /> </p>

<p>Douglas - you're right! Over $100 for a flimsy plastic trim piece. I replaced mine (or tried to) when the CF lenses were still in production, or at least shortly thereafter. Not worth the effort or investment.</p>

<p>I had that happen twice with my 120CF. The first time, I ordered a replacement from my local camera store (Mike's in Boulder) - cost $25 or so. That one also broke. I called Hasselblad, and they sent me another one, no charge. That one broke, too. It doesn't seem to have any real function except, as you noted, to cover up a screw or two. (There's only one screw under the ring on the 120 CF). I just let it go.<br> <br />Dick</p>