cmillosh

Yeah, this stuff is older, probably from the 80's , I think if it sees no light and a cool place it'll last for another 50 years, at least the unexposed cannister. This was one tough film in the 70's, 80's and 90's. Thanks to everyone for all your suggestions, it may take me several weeks to try them all out, thank you.

I agree, experimentation is key, I will try this method, really hope I don't pick the wrong canister to test with. Thanks for your reply

Thanks, I thought about 400 all the way, but pushed this pretty hard at times, and I just checked the canister in the freezer and it's from 1982. I remember this film being the staple of the Vietnam war, photographers would be developing this in tents in the Jungle and would produce very acceptable results. And yes half of my stash has been frozen for years and half in the back of the cabinet.. Thanks for everything, it is an experiment.

If you've been around for awhile you know what Tri-X is. About 25 years ago I was only doing B+W with the original Tri-X, I bought 20 or so 100ft rolls from a newspaper in Boston, Cheap, put them in the freezer as soon as they arrived. Sold a few on ebay for 40-50 bucks a roll, I have one left. For Development I used Xtol, have been away for 15 years, but have a lot of film to develop, film cans are marked, anywhere from 320-3200, mostly at 400-800, but I have a bag that has about 50 cans unmarked, I have no Ideal what I exposed them at or the best develop method to get the best negs, I was looking looking at 800 , but shit, I know some of these are of the Packers, Bears, Cards, Many big name bands. Don't want to loose them. Developing Tri-X no problem, but if I don't know the ISO they was exposed at, what is the happy medium? 800? I can do magic in the darkroom, but if anyone has experience with developing Tri-X with unknown exposure let me know. BTW, this isn't the latest tri-x, this is the old school shit that was used before the C41 process, hence me buying it from a newspaper 25 years ago.. Looking for advice on developing this in order to salvage as much as I can, I'm fine in the darkroom, but want to get my best neg that I can work with.