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Natural Arch. McCreary Co. Kentucky Nikon F100 Nikkor 24mm Provia 100

[ATTACH]1190359[/ATTACH]Natural Arch. McCreary Co. Kentucky Nikon F100. Nikkor 24mm Provia 100F

hello all, 3 cameras, 3 films, 1 tripod. using only prime lenses: 24/1.8 D; 50/1.8 D; 135/2.5 AIS; 200/4.0 AI Nikon F100 Nikon N90s Nikon FE2 Portra 400 (will most likely shoot at 200) polarizer and nd grad when appropriate Provia 100F (thinking of pushing to 200) Tri-X (box speed, most likely) want to utilize orange and/or polarizer and nd grad filters when lighting is appropriate i will be shooting landscape, primarily in the columbia river gorge and on the oregon coast. i do not process my film, currently, although hope to in the near or not too distant future. thanks in advance for the comments david

hey, thanks. i am considering one of the 100 speed films as i want less grain with this type of landscape. and,although a tripod should be used more often than not, i like to be able to shoot somewhat on the fly, as it were, which is easier of course with faster film. and, i can more easily play with the orange, etc. filters.

thanks. seems like a c41 b&w film may be the answer. i mainly use tri-x but, from what i've read, it seems that c41 films will render the sky darker. just curious about "c41 clouds". thanks again for the replies

what is everyone's favorite 35mm black and white film for seascapes? i am interested in creating some dramatic dark skies, white clouds. i am leaning toward a fast film and will most likely utilize an orange filter. i'm also shooting some color, both negative and e6, but will have a camera dedicated to b&w. thanks for all replies and suggestions. david

<p>thanks for all of the responses. all of the tips and advice are well taken. i definitely need to get back into developing my own film. i have found the err of my ways. it was ineptness. i inadvertently added -1.5 stops exposure compensation. so, i was pushing 3+ stops rather than 2. i had apparently set that on my f100 at some point and forgot to change it. i will send off another roll of tri-x pushed exactly 2 stops and a roll of delta 3200 shot at 1600. you only learn by trying. thanks for everyone's input</p>

<p>Dave S, i have done my own developing in the past, and plan on doing more in the future. i definitely understand the importance of having control over what i'm doing. thanks. <br> Les, those are great photos. it shows i definitely need to head toward developing again.<br> Anthony, that's a good idea, as otherwise i guess one would never really know. i shoot E6 with the f100, and get great results, or at least i think so.<br> John, i can appreciate your response, as i have shot several, more than i like to admit, unintentional silhouettes, as a result of not adjusting for backlighting. and, although the f100 matrix meter is supposed to help with that, but i know that one should make his/her adjustments in those situations. <br> thanks for the replies. i will attempt this again using some of these recommendations and advice.</p> <p> </p>

<p>i have recently begun to experiment with pushing tri-x to 1600. i understand that pushing tri-x is basically underexposing the film and subsequent overdeveloping. i do not develop my film, and i realize that is a short-coming. i have read multiple and more than multiple posts and forums regarding pushing tri-x. opinions differ in terms of develpers, times of development, shake/stir/stand/no-stand, etc. <br> i loaded my f100, shot a roll of tri-x at 1600. i sent it to a reputable photo-lab and instructed them to process, push 2 stops. a call from the lab informed me that the negs are too thin to print or scan. most all of the posts in numerous forums indicated varied ability to print/scan, but rarely total lack of ability to do so.<br> so, i am wondering if i should have been more specific, such as requesting a particular type of developing regimen, or something else, or maybe i should try another roll and send it to a different lab?<br> thanks in advance for your resonses.</p>

<p>thanks for the responses. i understand basic exposure techniques, just not exactly how to apply some of them to b&w photography and achieve what i want. i am attempting to apply the technique used by a british? photographer, who recommended doing as i did for more contrast, with the caveat that indeed overexposing too much would adversely affect the contrast. and, he does throw in a few nuances here and there that would correct and/or cause other problems, some of which i encountered in my photos. for now, i'm going box speed and add a yellow filter, which i've done in the past, and go from there.<br> all that being said, it appears that in order to achieve what i really want, i need to dive in and do my own developing and processing. then, i can over-expose and under-develop and vice versa, use different papers, etc.<br> again, thanks</p>

<p><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18074327-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="450" /><img src="http://d6d2h4gfvy8t8.cloudfront.net/18074326-md.jpg" alt="" width="679" height="450" />i recently shot these two photos with my FE2 and tri-x, over-exposed by 1 stop. i used an incident light meter on my iphone and opened up an extra stop for shadows. i didn't check the light meter to determine if it is correct, which it might not be. i'm curious as to why the photos are so washed out, when i was trying to get improved contrast. maybe someone will tell me it's okay the way it is. also, the lighting was late in the afternoon, the equipment in sunlight, the car not so much.<br> i'm in the process of procuring an accurate incident light meter, shooting at box-speed and using a yellow filter to try to get the contrast i want. i send the film off, so i can't try different developers, etc.<br> thanks</p>

<p>thanks for the replies. yep, we'll be there on the shoulder of the rainy season, so hoping for some clear days. insofar as using a grad, i like the idea. however, i always have questions as to how to meter. and, in the case of machu picchu, espec the big mountain in front of or behind it, if i use a grad for the sky, how does that affect the exposure of the mountain? pardon my lack of knowledge on this matter.</p>

<p>i'm headed this october to machu picchu. taking equipment/film listed below. tentative plans to shoot both color, most likely e6, and b&w landscape. intend to use f100 for color and fe2 for b&w.<br> entertaining suggestions as to type of film(s) and filters, if any, for both color and b&w. probably won't use polarizer filter on 24mm.<br> thinking of taking ASA 100 color & b&w, anticipating bright lighting conditions. having said that, i realize that faster film would allow use of filters, both polarizer or color, particularly without tripod. <br> <strong>very big question</strong> revolves around filters for b&w, looking at various shades of yellow - orange, etc., to get some extra contrast. not particularly interested in red.<br> am limited as to what lenses i have, all primes and not interested in zooms.<br> thinking very seriously about just b&w, in that case with my f100, as others with me will be shooting only color, digital of course. <br> thanks in advance for your replies/suggestions.<br> david<br> <strong>equipment:</strong><br> nikon f100/sigma 24/1.4 dg hsm art(when available)/nikkor 50/1.8<br> nikon fe2/nikkor 50mm 1.4/nikkor 28mm 2.8</p>