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  1. Nikon D300s , Sigma supertelephoto 300-800mm, f/5,6, 1/2500 sec, ISO320
  2. sigma supertelephoto 300-800mm at 800mm f/5,6, 1/2000 sec , ISO 200 subject distance 1 Km
  3. My Sigma 50-500 (Big Ma) works well with my EM-1 Mark 1, but locks up the Mark 2 when I switch on the lens autofocus. I have to take out and re-insert the camera battery to get the camera to work. Any ideas/solutions? JonK
  4. Hey all OK so I have inherited a Sigma APO AF ZOOM 70-210mm 1:2.8 len which looks amazing but it has on really weird issue, its super sticky where the rubber is! Where you select MF or AF the band is made of rubber or plastic and its so sticky, the black sticks to my hands, its probably the case on other rubber parts also, any idea what is going on or what I can do about this. Is this a common thing or totally weird and I'm just lucky.
  5. What are your thoughts on this? Seems like with no bayer interpolation this would be the best possible technical solution, no? I am wanting a small compact camera for other reasons, but I am wondering if this would also work for slides.. DP3 Merrill Compact digital camera Refurbished | Sigma Corporation of America I was thinking the dp3, as this I think is a 1:3 macro lens on apsc. Is this not close enough? My purpose in digitizing them is to simply create contact sheets so I can easily pick the few (if any) I want scan at 4000dpi on my coolscan. I would like this sigma for other reasons, but if it would serve double duty that would be awesome. I may sell the coolscan soon also, and in that scenario this camera would have to do some more heavy lifting in a more dedicated set up copy stand setup where I would care more about quality/resolution. But it would be nice to know that option is there. I honestly dont need 4000dpi scans, I just want to share at 20mb on the web...with most of my enjoyment take from printing and projecting...unplugged. 1:3 is not great for a full frame, but perhaps less than 1:1 would be ok on an aps-c sensor? I dont know how this works.... Thanks
  6. Hey, For a drawing project I want to shoot some macro images of parts of the face (eye, nose, ear, etc...) that will serve as references for the drawings/collages. I'm shooting with a Nikon F80 and Sigma 70-300mm F4-5.6 APO macro super lens. I was wondering what film would be best to use at 3200 ISO. I have the option of TMY-2, Tri-X 400 or TMZ (all of them are expired but they have always been in the fridge). I shoot the images in a darkened room with a desk lamp illuminating the different parts of the face. What I am looking for are images that have alot of depth/volume and tonal range for them to be interesting to draw. (The macro detail of a part of the face itself is not very interesting, so I'm hoping to create more interest with the lighting.) Do any of you have suggestions concerning lighting that might achieve this? I also plan on shooting some images outdoors at the golden hour. Some examples of the direction I want to take the photographs: Interesting lighting, but a bit too much contrast. I would like to have more difference in the tonal range. Another thing I noticed when shooting on the macro setting with this lens is that spot metering doesn't seem to be very accurate. The measuring stays the same wether I aim at a lit part or wether I point it at something in shadow. I don't know if this is because of the lens (macro setting) or ... ? I have the camera on a tripod so I haven't thoroughly examined this. Maybe someone with experience can tell me how to make accurate measurements. The films will be sent to a lab for development. I asked my store what developer they use but he didn't know. So to recap: 1) What film would you recommend? 2) Suggestions concerning lighting. 3) Spot metering with Sigma 70-300mm (on macro setting). Thanks in advance! A.
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