ed_prest

I have been thinking of ways to get a better scan on my 2450. (The 2450 is not good enough to get rings). The newton rings are a result of interference, this link has a good description of the problem.

 

http://www.fas.harvard.edu/~scdiroff/lds/LightOptics/NewtonsRings/NewtonsRings.html

 

So, lets remove the glass! Instead of tossing out the scanner, take out the glass and replace the glass with a black metal plate with a slightly less than 4x5 hole in it. Tape the positive/negative over the hole and scan this. As there wont be reflections the rings should go away and you get top resolution scan to boot.

 

In theory. Who wants to try it?

Here (Canada) for commercial accounts the banks hold you responsible for all checks written. (maybe electronically its different as you dont have control of a checkbook but then there is passwords etc) This may be true there too.

 

Move all money to a new bank immediately. Then you are in the position of control.

I have a Sinar P which I actually drag around outdoors - sometimes. I

would like a field camera but would like to use the lenses and lens

boards I have without modifications (90, 150, 210 and a too long 360).

Just grab and run. Is a horseman the only way to go?

Not good. I bought Bronica 6x6, used no less, watched its value go to 40% in 2 years. I figured I'd be safe with Sinar. Ha!

 

But, the sacking of 60 out of 93 staff is likely the closing of a large R+D program - this is definately not a production cut because its way too sudden. I'l bet the electronic devellopment is being dropped. And I bet sinar can't cut the long term electronic investment. Germany (the Swiss included) are very good at making mechanical things - they have a long hstory of excellent trade schools to teach mechanics. I've never seen them make anything worthwile electronic since vacuum tubes went away in the sixties.

 

The large format solutions I see now are typically high dev cost solutions for a low volume market - clunky and not very optimal and don't really offer a high value for the money. What sinar needs is an energetic start-up to shakeup the 6x6 and 4x5 market and come out with a killer digital back. They might want to keep a sharp eye on whats happening in India and China.

Apply valasine to the lens. You can put a filter in front to keep it clean.

There is a tour boat that runs hourly or so from the north end to the viewpoint where all the images are usually taken. You take it and instead of spending the 15 minuter there you will want to stay and go back on the next trip so there wont be tourists to content with. There is not much choice for alternate view points - either trees block the view or the magic disappears as the scene changes.

 

The mountains are high and the lake runs N-S so it gets dark early. I have camped on the lake. The morning is misty and dark. There are only 2 or 3 spots to camp on the lake and this is permit controlled.

 

I think the best time would not be in the morning or evening but regular day time - like 10 to 3.

Leaf shutters adjust the timing chains using two cams to select a gear train to use and the starting distance (time) to run. Shutter will run but the timing wont be very repeatable - you might get speed a or b or maybe something more or less random inbetween value. Use the f stops for in between adjustments.

What a bunch of good ideas, thanks.

I saw an exhibition of images taken from roof tops of sky scrapers

and the like at night. Its motivating for sure. All 4x5 and 8x10

covering walls.

 

The problem is I'm having a real hard time getting permission. The

building managers (half of them seem to be lawyers) think risky stuff

or its some big hollywood production. It looks like bribing the

maintenance people is the only way to do this and I would do this only

reluctantly.

 

Suggestions are welcome.

I just purchased my first 4x5 (Sinar P) - mostly to learn on. I want

to mirror my MF setup (40,50,80, 150 and I rarely use the 50). It

comes with a 150mm Schneider Symar S. I know I want something around

80 or 90mm and then something like 250 or longer But what make and

brand? I shoot a bit of everything but won't be carrying it far when I

do go out side. I have a limit of 1500$.

 

I thought a nikor 90 4.5 would be good with movements and not as dark

as f8. What to do for the longer lens - I have no idea?

AMT promises a lot but delivers less. Be aware they are a service company fixing all kinds of other consumer stuff - on and off warranty - so they are not truly a 'camera' shop.

Free? Copyright still in effect. $35 at Bronica.

Air sickness is caused by the balance system in the brain disagreeing with the eye scene. Then your body assumes you have been posioned by bad food and its barf time...self protection.

 

Keep your eyes up as much as possible to reduce motion sickness. Gravol helps. A helicopter has much bigger plexiglas area so its eassier to keep the horizon in sight - so your balance system stays happy.

 

My images always seem to have a lot of haze. You need to be low to reduce the haze. 1000 feet over obstacles within 2000 feet radius of the plane is the FAA rule over built up areas.

 

Tape the lens to infinity. Shoot late in the day. Have fun.

If a lot of studios are dumping MF film for digital - I'd like to

know what kind of digital setup they're moving to?

Newer 120 i backs (1998 type i and later) have a new catch area design. Bronica has added a metal lip and more foam making light leaks in thia area much more unlikely to occur.

Tamron New Jersey, has english repair manuals (w part lists) for the SQ-Ai body, $35.

 

They have lens manuals in Japanese ONLY. I will get the images in the lens manuals for free with the body manual.

 

Amplis Photo rep in Toronto was less than helpful.

You hold in the little pin at the bottom of the mount and rotate the ring drive pins past the green dot into the red area - all the way will fire the shutter at 1/500.

 

Now you know why the red area is so prominent. Only mount the lens when the drive pins are back in the green area. Drag the pins against the shutter springs and it will cock the lens and then lock the drive pins at the green dot - its safe to mount.

 

Another reason Bronica is better than a 'Blad.

My 80PS shutter is getting sticky. I have taken it down and

reassembled it fine (at least its cleaner) except I didn't remove the

front group as I'm worried about reassembly - infinity may be

effected etc??? and if course I have no manual.

 

How does one get the shutter out?

Seems only the older S and S2 have available manuals from Craig etc.

Do you have to be a dealer to get the tech manuals?

Ok, I'll try HTML: <a href="http://www.photo.net/photo/1927156" >Instructions</a>

2nd try

Here's some images to help make the job clearer.

Re: SQAi and 120I backs.

I found a frame with a bluish streak across the frame. I was taking

pictures while raking leaves and just left the camera in the sun.

After placing the develloped 400 speed film in the back it was

obvious the leak was coming from the top of the back where the catch

is. I was using a new to me waist finder instead of my usual prism

which is important as the prism covers the catch giving it some shade

from the sun. The finder leaves the catch area fully exposed to the

sun. Closer inspection revealed that the interior foam seal was less

than perfect. Easily fixed up.

 

More interestingly, close inspection reveals the fact that the back

design itself provides a slot where another top seal can be inserted.

This slot is just above where the hooks lock the back closed and runs

the full length across the back. I assume the factory does not

install anything there from the backs of different vintages I have.

 

I fabricated a seal from 1/32 in. reinforced rubber strip and fitted

it. Carefully cutting it to the exact width provides a snug light

seal in addition to the regular production part. I didn't even need

glue as it stays put.

 

I suppose Bronica decided to not bother with this seal in production

as most of the time its not necessary? Maybe its a good idea to add

it. (If there is interest I'll post pictures).

Equal to Epson 2450?

6x7 is 2.25 * 2400 pixels/in = 5400 pixels across a negative scan,

then, 5400/300 dpi recommended prints = 18 inches across.

 

In theory any printer width to 18 inches is 'equal to. the epson scanner.

 

Much more important is the care and feeding of the printer, cartridge cost etc. I prefer a printer I can refill with GOOD inks (Inktec.com). I looked at the epson 2200 and canon 9000. Both good. Is archival quality important, etc? The wide HP's are easier to reink on the cheap.

 

BTW: I have an epson 2450 and I love it, USB on Win 2000 O/S is fine. I can scan to 3200. Above that I seem to get little improvement in image and file size grows! You need photoshop top do good sharpening.