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casimir_artmann

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Posts posted by casimir_artmann

  1. Thank for your remarks.

     

    Yes I know it's personal taste how you what to commuicate, but I like som guidelines as

    Steven wrote. "If the image uses mostly middle to light tones and doesn't need the

    extreme contrast I may go for a matte."

     

    I would like to limit to only a few papers, both for cost, but also to simplify so I can learn

    in a better way. I 've got a new Canon Pixma 5000 printer and an iMac, and have so far

    found color profiles for Ilford papers. Made a test print on both pearl and gloss, so I can

    see the difference.

     

    Regards Casi

  2. When doing it digital you have a lot of options, like the old days when doing B/W's in your

    own darkroom.

     

    With a decent printer, you have the option to choose glossy, high glossy and pearl paper.

    My question is when to use each type of paper? Landscape, portrait, reportage, concerts

    etc. I need at least some guidelines instead of wasting good paper and ink. Pro's and

    con's.

     

    Twenty years ago i was using matte fibre paper for BW work, and then Galleri matte

    papper. I didn't like it to glossy. But color copies is another story or....

     

    Regards Casi

  3. It depends how you travel. Back-pack style and guest house is something elese than business like travel and five star hotels.

     

    We stayed on a lovely Island in Malyasia two years ago, with diesel generator for electricity just during the night, and not 110/200V either.

     

    There is also an issue of theft when carring not your laptop/computer equipment with you. Hotel rooms in tourist areas are not safe!

     

    Regards Casi

  4. I have similar question. I'm using 24-50-85 primes + 80-200 zoom with slide film for travel photography.

     

    If going digital, will my new recommended setup be 50 prime, 12-24 and 24-120 zoom? How much will I miss fast lenses compared to zoom, DOF issue most but also effect of using 200 ASA setting instead of Velvia 100F / Porta 160.

  5. I bought some stuff at a very resonable price at Arlington Camera last november. Had a car for a week so it was no problem going there when visiting Fort Worth and the stock-yards.

     

    It's possible to have tax-refund on all purchases in Texas if you are a forigner. You need proof of purchase, air-ticket home and passport. Has to be done at one shopping mall befor leaving, not at the airport.

    Refund is credited your credit card, and I'm still waiting for it.

     

    Regards Casi

  6. Go to a reputable dealer with your list, and say that you want to rent one Canon and one Nikon camera for a week. Negotiate a price, and if you by the equipment from him, then the rent is included in the total cost.

     

    I was i the same situation once, and I went for the body that I felt most comfortable with. I still like the feeling when taking pictures from my FE-2 :-)

  7. I bought a Nikon E 100/2.8 to my FM2 and Nikon E 50/1.8 kit long time ago. This short telephoto is sharp, light and can be found for a low price.

     

    The reason to abandon the 100/2.8 was a purchase of a used 85/1.8 lens.

    I have also used Nikon E 28/2.8 but was not satisfied. Have sold it and got 35/2.0 and 24/2.8 primes instead.

  8. If you shoot with silde film, I would say 81A or 81B warming filter. Polfinter is great, but I've got problem with my 28-80/3.5-5.6 and auto-focus function. AF doesn't work well with slower aparture than 5.6. If you add a polfilter the effective aparture regarding light will be 8 or more.

     

    I'm not either satisfied with consumer-zoom, i.e. 28-100, and slide film. The color correction with 81A/B is not a big issue with print film. The price of the zoom is so low, so adding an 1B or UV-filter for protection is not so important.

     

    "Summa summarum" You don't need a filter with your kit. Buy a used 50/1.8 instead for the money.

     

    Regards Casi

  9. Are you aware of the 1.6 muliplier of focal lenght of Digital Rebel. A 400 mm lens "is someware equal" to 600 mm when using a digital SLR. Before you buy a super-zoom, try to figure out what you want your pictures for. You may be disapointed trying to enlarge your pictures.

     

    A humble recomondation would be something like 70-210 mm zoom to start with on a digital. This equals to 100-300 mm film-based SLR.

     

    Regards Casi

  10. I spoke to a Canon representative a week ago, and he said you should underexpose your pictures. The reasons was that digital cameras have problems with highlightning. An example from histograms i Photoshop gave a good view of this. It's possible to fix an underexposed picture in PS but not over-exposed.

     

    There are also two "color" modes, one for direct printing and one when you want to work in Photoshop.

     

    Regards Casi

  11. I would suggest a Nikon N75 with 50/1.8. Price will be about $250. I prefer to buy new cameras and second-hand optics. More things could go wrong with a used camera than a lens, especially a prime. With a new body, you are able to use- all new optics, some-thing I can't do with my three-year old F90X/N90s.

     

    Regards Casi

  12. I have the 75-240 zoom. I would say that it's a decent zoom for the price and useful for casual photos with print film. Build quality is so-and-so. My plastic mount broke, and was fixed under guarantee.

     

    Personally I don't think that 28 i wide enoght, and a friend who travel abround the world with 28-105 wants something more wide. He is semi-pro and very well pleased with the lens otherwise.

     

    Regards Casi

  13. When starting using autofocus three year ago, i was not satisfied. The reason was that the AF-pocus point was not where I wanted focus in the picture. I'll thing this is the biggest issue with AF. If your focus and AF-focus are qual then, AF will be good enough. Otherwise you have to use AF-lock and re-compose. I'm used to manual focused lenes since before, so I prefer manual focus instead of AF-lock. Equal goes for AE-lock versus manual exposure. Yes, I still use an FM-2N :-), but would like to have an F5. More options to use, if you want.

     

    Regards Casi

  14. Sorry for the bad news

     

    The AI-type Nikon converters, TC-20x, TC-14X will not work with F65/75/80. New Nikon AF-converters will work with some AF-S lenses.

     

    Optically will a TC not be recommended for a 28-200 zoom. So a 3rd party TC is not a viable option.

     

    Regards Casi

  15. Have you done a similar trip before?

    I've been in Thailand and Malaysia twice, each time for three weeks. I have used a roll / day as an average, but I brought about 35 films with me each time. I processing cost waqs lower I would probable shoot twice as much.

     

    Your milage may vary, but it's hard to go back to take the same picture again.

     

    Regards Casi

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