Tony Rowlett

Thanks for saying, Barry!

 

The trick to noise reduction is one thing: don't over-do it! But between the Monochrom and the traditional color sensor, I think that is where the similarities end. With the Monochrom, the "grain" is much easier to work with, and in some scenarios, it truly does resemble film grain. Even at its highest ISO of 10,000, the grain is still reasonable and can be dealt with pretty easily in programs like Adobe Lightroom or Nik DfFine.

 

Barry, are you using Lightroom?

Working in Lightroom with images from the Monochrom is a whole new experience. First, a layer of complexity is removed entirely: the color-channel sliders. You're left with the exposure, contrast, highlights, shadows, whites, and blacks sliders. In a way, it's much easier to tweak your image to perfection, but the opposite side of that coin is that the sliders are used slightly differently. For instance, I find that I don't find useful, so far, reducing the highlights on account of it doesn't do much because once details are lost, you only have one channel to deal with and no amount of reduction can bring back detail. What that means is that you have to be careful with your initial exposure. Also, I have noticed that I need to bring up whites more, lower blacks less, and work the contrast in smaller increments.

Thanks for the encouragement! (It does work.)

 

David, the "sweet light" shot was with my Nikon D700 (70-200). It was tweaked in Lightroom, though, so some characteristics sneak into the final image that way, I imagine.

 

Barry, I routinely reduce noise in Lightroom, but not very much. If ever you wish, I could report my Lightroom develop settings in that regard. The high ISO performance of the Monochrom really is excellent; so much so that it borders on the bizarre! I struggled with the "black and white only" notion, but I figured two things: pick a camera that does one thing _really well_ and go with it, and the fact that it doesn't have to be a permanent solution. I do enjoy working in color, too, but for now I will chock this up as a B&W experiment. The new Leica M seems to be a great camera, and I have R lenses that might make its acquisition logical, but I have not really missed color by using the Monochrom.

thanks, Alex. i just can't find a "style" for me. Jeff Spirer and Brad have such one, yah?

There are a few others at that same site; have a look. I'm not really trying to show off, just show what I've done in the last few days playing around with a Leica Monochrom. I really think this is the most fantasic machine I've ever worked with. Not from a purely "megapixel" point of view, just what it can do with the megapixels that it has. Its results have been a bit startling to me.

I found this to be "interesting" not necessarily from a picture-point of view, but if you view the maximum size,

I think it's a good example of what that Leica Monochrom can do.

 

That M6J looked particularly good to me.

Have you all seen this page from Shoottokyo.com? http://shoottokyo.com/2012/06/03/sushi-cameras-more-cameras/

The fellow uses Leica cameras and posts his pictures. I love his pictures of the insides of quite a few photo

shops in Tokyo.

I thought we didn't do this for a documentary/street way of shooting.

You might also try posting to the photo.net Stolen Equipment Registry at http://www.photo.net/neighbor/registry/ if you haven't done to already. I'm also very sorry to hear this. I hope you get your stuff back.

Thanks, Bill! I sure will. She's so far tolerated me!

I've done them both. I was handloading the cassettes until I just tried a roll of Tri-X and it worked!

"For Sale" and "Wanted to Buy" posts aren't allowed, but I'll take this as a "Where would you find something like this" post!

 

Happy New Year!

I've got one of these, and it's even got a roll of tri-x loaded in it. I should finish it out and get it processed. Mine doesn't have the interchangeable lens, though. I like the term, "steam Leica!"

My only gripe is battery life between charges as a proportion to the cost of the battery. Over $100; yet batteries for my Nikon D700 last several weeks of shooting and they're, what, $25.

I noticed that when I get the notion that my browser is hung up after I punch up "Confirm" to make my post, I

open a new "Tab" (depending on which browser), and open the thread in question, I see that my post is actually

there. I think this is why photo.net is getting so many double posts. I also cut-n-paste my entry into a

notepad application if I notice that photo.net hangs up.

Fantastic. Many thanks for your continued sharing.

I can't seem to get mine to work. I do have iOS 6. Went to my gallery and created a folder called iphone, went to upload a photo from my iphone, ON my iphone, and it took me to my photos on my iphone. It looked like it wanted to work, I got the right photo selected, it says, "Total Files: 1" and the only other thing left to do is to punch up "Upload" and when I do that, it takes me to a screen titled, "Add captions and details to uploaded photos" yet it says I don't have anything to be captioned or organized.

Prayers.

There is something emotional and poetic about having not only the essentials, but having ONLY the "absolute" essentials. A camera that won't even accommodate a meter or a battery seems very cool to me. 500 controls versus, what, four? (focus, f/stop, shutter speed and.... the shutter button!)

(Nice little trip down memory lane with the link to the old greenspun forum by John Kwok! Thanks for that.)

Ray Dicecca, that picture of your IIIF in the half case is beautiful.

I like it very much. It is more eye-pleasing, polished, and professional.

Some nice digital manipulation, Matt!

I ended up with a PocketWizard N90M3-P (pre-trigger) cable. It works for triggering the camera's shutter. Is it <u>supposed to work</u> for triggering the flash and getting some sync going? Here's my set up: full manual operation; rear sync, flash speed 1/60; sync speed 1/250; ISO 400-800 indoors; three PocketWizard Plus II: 1 for off-camera flash, one on camera with cable, and one in hand for triggering. I have tried turning on the pre-trigger function,yet on or off, I don't get any flash sync at shutters from 1/30 and faster. Interestingly, when I set the camera's shutter to 1/4 a second, I get two flashes (rear sync), and finally some flash showing up in the image.