Tony Rowlett

I inherited a Leica R4 that works perfectly in ambient light conditions. When I attach a chorded flash via the PC socket, there is no mode to set the camera to that will allow the shutter to fire. I was hoping for M as I am using a flash meter for my scene. I’m thinking an it’s an issue. What can I check?

On the shutter dial I’ve tried X, 100, 125, 60, and  random other shutter speeds.

Many thanks for your responses and links. I will some day see about digging into it as suggested. 

I saw this and I’m shocked. Being a store that I love to visit. The store in DC is a nice one. Hoping for the best.

Here is one from a 1937 Agfa Isolette, 6x6 format. The effect here I think is due to the lens not being in perfect alignment with the film plane. But it is sort of quirky gold, eh? Photographed just off of our deck.

Anyone here remember Leica Forum activity from the early 2000s? This article from the Miami Herald is from 2004 and features Al and member James Mitchell, who ordered sweat shirts that feature Al, and a photo of Sheldon Hambrick, also a member of photo.net (still, I think). I still have mine.  My how times fly by. 

Points taken.

I sometimes save chunks of styrofoam from shipping boxes, the kind that is white and smooth to the touch. It can be useful for diffusing the light from speedlights for small projects, especially macro work. Sometimes the styrofoam is just too thick, other times it works pretty well.

Tracing paper is inexpensive, widely available, and mostly in common use (a spouse who does crafting, children experimenting with drawing, off-camera flash lighting projects, etc.). If the other you mentioned "isn't that cheap," what is one to do for the occasional product shoot at home like for an eBay sale? Personally speaking, Strobist projects are extremely fun to do and very rewarding.

David Hobby really ignited my enthusiasm for off-camera lighting. Great stuff. 

I have done this, and it is a superb way to light small, table-top objects.

https://strobist.blogspot.com/2013/11/50-diy-projects-for-lighting.html

That’s impressive, but did you bring a spare battery? 😬

On 11/14/2022 at 8:53 AM, Nick D. said:

PN never was film based to begin with. It was created when digital became mainstream .

Not to be too nit picky, but this is not correct. Photo.net had many thousands of discussion forum posts from the early to late 90s that were mostly about film-based Canon, Nikon, Pentax, and a few others. Digital was definitely a minor topic then.
I started lurking on the site in the early 90s soon after its creation by Philip Greenspun. This was a time when it’s format was simply two discussion forums: the photo.net one, and a nature photography one. 

36 minutes ago, billorg said:

Rolleiflex TLR. 

I agree with this, too. It’s lighter, and it’s also a beauty!

33 minutes ago, billorg said:

But that's not light

Maybe not as light as one would want, but the way the strap attaches to the camera and thus the ergonomics of slinging it over your shoulder, it’s just fine.  I’ve been doing this, and I’ve always demanded lightness and compactness. In the case of the Hassy, the bit more weight is worth it, in my opinion. 

A more serious detraction than weight of the Hassyis the price of admission, but you can find deals. 

For small, you can’t beat a Hasselblad, like a 501cm. I’ve been carrying one a bit and you’d be surprised how easy it slings over your shoulder. Beautiful camera,too. 

I’m sorry. I didn’t realize that it wasn’t available to all. It’s doesn’t indicate that it’s just for staff and moderators. 

Go to Account->profile, then click on Account Settings. You can set your display name there. 

I think that the underlying interface is modern and works nicely. There must be a lot of background work and development necessary. I'm going to kick back and just be patient, I think. 

Using the Epson P800 printer for black and white printing, using the "Photo Black" setting works really nicely, especially for expanses of very dark to black. This hasn't been the case when printing the same print using the "Matt Black" option as there are gaps in the printing that are seen even without close inspection. I have performed the head alignment feature, too, which is straightforward. 

I am exporting from Lightroom (cloud) to Lightroom Classic 12 so I can output using the print module.

Are you able to get solid patches of dark or black on a print using Matt Black? I took a photo of the Matt Black print with my iPhone which shows the problem. I'm going to try to attach that here.

3586D328-0EC3-4D76-A0F5-B86DA8843B8F_1_201_a.heic

Sympathy for the Photo. 😎

2 hours ago, samstevens said:

Sure it can. It can also be integral to it and help it be fulfilled.

 

Why do you feel sorry for the negative, which is simply the beginning of a process? Do you feel sorry for the baby coming out of a womb (to use your analogy)? Or do you sometimes experience a sense of wonder and joy at the mother-child relationship and the love and care that mother gives to baby?

I think you make a great point!

I don’t disagree with any of the comments so far.

But it is true that once the scene is captured, either onto film or digital media, it becomes trapped until the end a process. That process can be effected in as few steps as punching a WiFi button on the camera, or as many as what a poor negative has to go through.

A painter, of course, dabs paint from a tube onto a canvas and pushes it around to create her masterpiece. The only thing being rescued is the paint in the tube.

The mechanical process can be rough on a vision. Even after the image emerges onto a computer screen, it is still subject to the treatments of the sliders. Yes, you do all the “properly” and “successfully.”

OOPS! My bad, my bad..... this wasn't taken with my M6, it was taken with my Leica Monochrom, first version. Sorry about that. That's the trouble with using several cameras!

I don't know about any film loader, but I definitely recommend teaching the old fashioned method of loading film in the dark. It's a rite of passage.