kelly_hicks1

<p>Hi all,<br />For the the last couple of year's I've been shooting theatre and stage performances in my city (population 500K) as well as headshots/portraits of actors/musicians. I really like the exposure it has given me and the work, although it is usually not very lucrative.<br>

<br /> I'm also doing senior portraits, weddings, and engagements.<br>

<br /> I've been trying to decide if I should split up my website into two different sites. One site, strictly relating to theatre and stage performance, since I have a large portfolio for this. The other site just for weddings/engagements, which I'm still building a portfolio for.<br>

<br /> I like the idea of splitting them up, as it seems to target towards a more specific audience and maybe attain a more 'expert' status. I'm known fairly well for working with stage and theatre. However, my portfolio is still small for weddings/engagments, less then 10 weddings last year.<br>

<br /> Options<br /> 1) have one main site with a landing page that goes to two different sites (weddings or stage/theatre) (bad for SEO?)<br>

<br /> 2) have one main site containing seperate menus: theatre, perforance, weddings, portraits.<br>

<br /> 3) have one main site containing seperate menus: theatre, performance, weddings - that contain links that go to different websites.<br>

<br /> 4) two different sites.</p>

I've been contemplating a career change for quite some time. I've had to

wrestle with the fact that I enjoy photography and would like a career that

involves around it. However, I'm not really interested in developing a

photography business. I would rather teach about photography history, darkroom

work, photoshop, and archiving. I would like to mentor and help others in their

art. This is coming from someone that's been in the tech industry for 10

years. I'm a late chicken at 37, but would like to have an opportunity to do

something that I care about. I'm in the stages now of asking other educators

about what their likes/dislikes are and how they got their start. Do you like

what you do? How hard is it to get a job in the field on a college or high

school level?

Thanks for the answers. I forgot to mention that I will be printing only up to 13x19, as that's the biggest I can go on the Epson.

I'm planning on a trip to Alaska this summer that will last a couple

of weeks.

 

I currently have a pentax 645, hasselblad, and 20D. For my hobby, I

have found myself shooting a lot lately with the pentax 645 and 20D as

the hassleblad doesn't have a light meter and is rather slow to use.

 

I'm contemplating on selling the pentax 645, hasselblad, and 20D in

order to fund a FF 5D. I know the quality would not be up to par with

the hasselblad, but I feel it would easier to work in the field. My

last trip to London with the hasselblad was a disaster as I found it

extremely slow for a travel camera. I like the instant feedback of

digital and its great to show to your friends your shots after a days

shooting. I was just wondering if anyone had any advice as to whether

the 5d is a big step up from the 20D and comparable to a pentax 645.

 

If you have any other adivce on models to get I would like to hear

those as well.

Thanks everyone for the advice. I'll probably go ahead and just get the 2400 for now. The 4800 would be nice, but I have to also think of wall space which might limit the size and number of big prints. I guess I can send my scans out for the large prints.

I'm trying to decide if I should buy either a epson 2400 or 4800

printer. I have little experience in framing etc and would like to

hear from others what typical size you print/frame you present your

work with.

 

The 2200/2400's maximum print size is 13x19. Would this allow me to

print my work up to 13x13 and be presentable in a 16x20 frame? Or

would I need to limit the square prints to a smaller size with a white

border to look more presentable. My other option is to buy a 4800 and

print 15x15 or 13x13 onto 16x20 paper, but its alot to pay for just 2

more inches.

Totally newbie question, but I?m shooting 6x6 and am looking at

getting a Epson 2200/2400.

 

I?m was wondering what most 6x6 shooters enlarge to using this printer

and what framing options you use. Do most of you print borderless 13 x

13? If so what size of frame do you use? Or do you choose to enlarge

up to 10x10 and display it in a 11x14 frame. Are there any other

framing options that you might recommend. I prefer to have a border

but it?s looking like I may not be able to achieve it with this

printer and still keep a large enlargement size.

Forget the photo bags. Go to Target and get a rectangular insulated cooler bag used to hold cokes/sandwiches etc. They run around $20. I use one for transporting my hasselblad. Its as insulated as a photo bag but you don't pay for it being one. Plus if your traveling to questionable areas your gear doesn't scream photographer, more like someone with a lunch bag :)

I recommend azatek as well. I bought a NEC 22" last year for $300 and it works great.

I guess I'm in the minority. I have a hard time using a hasselblad handheld and getting sharp pics. Granted I'm using a 150mm, but I keep my speed above 1/250. Maybe too much coffee. I'm sure the 80mm would be alot better.

It's hard to believe that they will already be available at the end of the month.

Everyone has mentioned cameras etc. which is only half of your need. What is your output? If your going digital then 2k for a Nikon 9000, if not then get a good enlarger (zone system/D5 etc). Plus all the supplies and doo-dads needed for analog or digital process. MF cameras are cheap, its all the extras that will do the damage :)

Do you have a lot of wide angles for the 35mm? If not then take the Graflex, if you do then take the Rollei.

Hey David,

Try <a href=http://www.imagerylab.com/services.html> imagerylab.com </a>. They offer nikon scans for Medium Format. I'm in the same boat as you and I am going to send some negatives out to be scanned on a drum scan and by the nikon

to see if there is a huge amount of difference between the two. I normally only print up to 11x11 so I'm not quite sure if the nikon is worth the 2K in price.

I'm considering saving up and getting a nikon 8000/9000 to use with my

6x6 camera. I mainly shoot velvia 100f and Tri-x.

 

I just wanted to get opinions on how the well the nikon 8000/9000

scans b/w negatives, especially Tri-x. Any problems with black and

white emulsions and the nikon scanners?

I only have the 150m just because I like the focal length and shoot alot of details. I would probably get a 80m if I purchase another lens. I recently got back from London and struggled with just having a 150m. Its a wide-angled city for sure!

 

Reading the 35mm forums kills me because people allude to how many zooms and primes they possess. Unless your a working pro I don't understand why you would need so many lenses, it would just get in my way.

 

BTW has anyone noticed the prices on the 'blad stuff lately? Things have really gone up since I bought my kit last year. Good news, I guess for now.

Hope it will be a tad less then 20K :)

Its a pesonal thing.

I just closed up my darkroom this weekend. Its now a handy supply room :)

 

Although I'm sure you can obtain better results then digital methods in b/w, I just couldn't get motivated to do it anymore. For me it was just a PITA to block off 6 hours of my day to stir chemicals and lock myself up in a dark room. With digital I can work on bits of my work at any time, whether it be for one hour or 6. For now, this aspect of "digital darkroom" appeals to me the most. I still love a silver print and have respect for those who pursue darkroom work.

Hey Brett,

I've used the Pentax 67 and the Mamiya 7.

Both are excellent cameras. The Mamiya meets your requirements as a light weight camera but limits you to wide angles and no macro abiltiy. However, since you noted that you shoot 25-90 in 35mm this may be ok. I like tele lenses, so the Mamiya was frustrating as it didn't meet my needs for that function. There is a 150mm lens, but I haven't heard much success with it.

 

The Pentax 67 is a great camera, but its pretty heavy, as mentioned above, and carrying multiple lenses would greatly increase that. You should also carry a tripod for the Pentax. I'm not much for a heavy tripod so I didn't go for this one either :)

 

The 645 is a great idea. It would be a step up from 35mm, but it still offers you a greater negative without the weight but with the lenses.

If you get a 6x6 you will probably crop to a 645 anyway if your shooting landscapes, unless your like me and see things "square" :) However, the Mamiya with an 80mm and wide angle might be the best. The negs are incredibly sharp and its soooo light, plus you have more real estate to crop if you need to.

These are great pics Bas. I love the square and these work very well within the structure. As someone who has just closed down their darkroom, I understand what your going through :(

I still haven't decided whether or not I'm going to sell my hass. and pick up a DSLR or go ahead and purchase a 4870 and do the scan thing. I love the big neg of MF but the instantaneous feedback of a DSLR can't be overlooked. You'll have to give us an update once you print these out!

Thanks for the posting the image Tom, decent amount of detail. Have you tried printing any of your scanned 645s? I shoot 6x6 and am wondering how big an acceptable scan/print I can get off of the epson.

I?m kind of in the same situation. I'm trying to decide whether or not the Epson 4990/4870 is good enough for a hasselblad up to A3 or to dump it all for the canon 20d. I would expect the Epson to provide greater detail even at A3, (I may be wrong about this), but as David pointed out, the scanning time is something not to be taken lightly.

 

The Canon Mark II/20d would definitely provide a faster workflow, and allow one to keep the process all digital instead of reverting from analog to digital. I love my hasselblad but it seems that I?m really doing it an injustice by not using an enlarger for my b/w prints from the negative. Drumscans are another option of course.

Thanks for the ideas and tips about spotmetering. Gives me something to start with.

Anyone care to share any tips for using a spotmeter with slides?

 

I've heard of metering your hand (36% grey) in the same light as your

subject and opening up a stop. Also, I've seen mention of metering the

highlight in your scene and opening it up 2 stops. I just got a

spotmeter to use with a 6x6 SLR, but I'm kind of confused on how to

use it with slides.

"The Autcord meter actually works pretty well with alkaline batteries. I have a EPX625 alkaline in there right now, with a piece of plastic to make it fit snuggly. When I hit the battery test button, if talls right in the middle of the "good battery" area. And it usually agrees pretty well with my handheld meter."

 

If that's the case I would just stick with the autocord :)

 

I'm going to London next week and would rather take my autocord then my hasselblad. But my 'cord is getting a little slow on the speeds.

The minolta has been great for traveling though. I've used it for traveling and hiking in the southwest. People look at you funny too when you use it :)

 

I would only consider getting another camera if you needed more then one lens, which is understandable.