tom_alaerts1

I have the seriously irritating problem with my C-33 that the pictures I take are actually sharper in the foreground than where I actually focused. It happens with all 3 lenses I have (65,80,180 super). It seems least noticeable on the 180. It's not because of any personal eyesight problems.

So I guess I should have the film pressure plate adjusted or the viewing screen, right?

Before I bring the camera to a repair center, I would like to know from people who had the same problem with their C-series how much this is more or less going to cost me.

Many thanks for any info,

<p>

Tom Alaerts

toma@but.be

Mike,

<p>

you got some really good answers. I want to add this:

I use both a Rolleicord V with Schneider Xenar lens and later i bought also a Mamiya C33.

One could more ore less compare the Rolleicord and Yashicamat124G.

A friend of me has the yashica124G. We both almost only make b&w prints with it. I have to admit: most of the time you can't tell which camera made which picture. But the rollei is somewhat better when used with open diafragm. The yashica is somewhat handier in use (more like a rolleiflex) but otoh the rollei is certainly, beyond discussion, the better built camera. Mine dates from 1958 or so and it still works accurately. I had the shutter checked when I bought it for very little money because it looked very used but all the speeds were still spot-on!

The rollei is a real quality product and built for the ages, the yashica is well-enough built (certainly for amateur use) but really not so good as the rollei.

I use both a 33 and the cord because: the rollei is so much lighter. you won't mind a long walk with the cord (or yashicamat) but you will hate to lug a mamiya c series around. For most of my pics, i only need the standard lens anyway.

But when i can use a tripod, and i can get there by car, or for macro, the mamiya is also interesting: good lenses, generally affordable. Built quality is tank-like. Anyway, a rollei also lasts forever and only weighs half. Even when considering that you can change lenses on a mamiya, the difference in weight is still big. So it comes as no surprise that rollei always was a very expensive brand.

So in short: I would recommend: first buy a light and easyliy portable tlr, then look around again for a more complete system. The light tlr will always come in handy, especially if the system is as heavy as the mamiya c-series.

<p>

Tom

PS: bear in mind that mamiya chrome c lenses' shutters cant be repaired no more. So look for the black ones.

PPS: a very interesting moder camera is the Bronica SQ-B. Except for kiev, the cheapest mf camera. But of course still a lot more expensive than your 2nd hand options...

Hello,

<p>

I have a Mamiya C33 with the 65mm, the 80mm and the 180mm lenses. However, I don't have lens shades for them, so welcome when shooting in bright sunlight...

My question: Which 35mm sunshades are good to put on these lenses?

I consulted the mamiya faq and somewhere it stated about for example the 65mm, if you compare it to a lens for 35mm film then if you want to record the same square on a 35mm film, you need a 28mm lens.

So, I guess I have to buy a 28mm lensshade for my mamiya 65mm lens. Is this correct and if not, which lens shades are okay so that I won't have vignetting?

many thanks,

<p>

Tom

Hello,

<p>

I have 2 questions about Mamiya TLR lenses

1. I just bought a Mamiya C33 with the chrome 105mm lens on it. Now I prefer a slightly wider angle as a standard lens, so a 80mm would be best. A dealer in the neighboorhoud will let me swap the lens for a black 80mm he has (I will have to add a little money for the service of course, he has to make a living too).

But I read somewhere that the mamiya 80mm is at best an average lens and that the 105mm is much, much better. Is any of this substantiated? For the best results, should I keep the 105mm and live with the more narrow angle?

2. This dealer has a very reasonably priced 180mm. The reason why it is cheaper than usual is that there is a very small dot on one of the inner lenses (difficult to see). He said if i notice it i can bring the lens back in. But has any of you experience with such a thing? Do you think it will produce a visible smudge or will it "only" affect edge sharpness at large apertures? Of course it is difficult to give an answer if you haven't tried the lens but perhaps someone was in more or less the same situation.

I prefer that eventual replys would also be sent to me personally.

Many thanks,

<p>

Tom Alaerts