aaron_rocky

I have 2.8GHz P4, 160G HD and one gig memory but a 500+MB file still

take a long time to load and to generate thumbnail in PS. Long wait

for every adjustment. How much memory do you recommend?

Anyone tried it? How is the result compared with positive developing?

Forget about cheap flatbed. I used to have a Epson/transparency adapter, junk! Now I'm using dedicated Polaroid 4x5 film scanner, much better.

Ted,

 

How does the schneider macro symmar 180HM perform at infinity? Its image circle is 375mm at 1:1 which is big enough to cover 8x10. Will it also cover 8x10 at infinity?

I also notice there is a very thin metal ring (spacer?) between the front lens assembly and the copal shutter. Does this ring come with the new shutter (thus universally fit all the lens using the same size shuuter) or with the lens (which means different thickness for different lens)?

Is there any problem of doing this? Is it hard to unscrew the lens

from the DB mount? Does DB mount also have a retaining ring? Does a

new copal shutter come with a retaining ring?

Ansel custom made a platform on top of his wagon so he could stand

really high to take pictures. It's a great way to get rid of

annoying foreground like bushes and trees. Anyone also did similar

custom moding on your car/truck/SUV? What kind of vehicle is the

best to start from?

Ok, how much?

I checked my 10D focus screen and found out it is skewed, no wonder manual focus is always wrong! Took out the frame and re-seat the screen, problem solved!

$1211

http://www.onecall.com/PMN_1610.htm?BCPID=467

http://www.badgergraphic.com/search_product2.asp?x=3464

I saw badgergraphic has this thing for sale. How to advance film

with such adapter? Keep a RZ body handy?

Nowhere seems to sell this kind of filter, including e*bay. I want

to use both warm(@rear) and polarizer(@front) filters. I know there

is warm polarizer but it's very expensive.

When I asked for handcheck at RDU and Vegas, they said it's ok if film speed below 800, so my Provia 100f and Elite 200 went twice through x-ray machine. I didn't notice any problem after film is processed.

Try manual focus with your wide angle lens. You'll find that red square won't light up when image is sharp on focus screen!!

I reported the same thing on the 16-35mm lens a while ago, and some A**HOLE kept accusing me of trolling, really pissed me off. Do not judge the focus by what you see in the viewfinder, that's false!

16-35@35, similar at other FL, 100% crop.<br>

AF, in viewfinder the letter edge is blurred but picture is fine:<br>

<img src="http://24.136.247.214/af.jpg"><br>

MF, with angle finder c set at 2x to get as sharp edge as possible. Picture is blurry.<br>

<img src="http://24.136.247.214/mf.jpg"><br>

DO YOU STILL HAVE ANY DOUBT MR BS???

<BR><BR>

<IMG SRC="HTTP://24.136.247.214/FORBS.JPG">

If diopter setting is wrong, manual focus won't give you sharp image in viewfinder. I just tried 200mm lens with 10D, AF is accurate, sharp view, sharp image.

If you do a quick experiment in the same way you will see that I'm not 'trolling'.

This is weird! The shot took with manual focus(sharp in viewfinder) turn out very blury, autofocus(blur in viewfinder) turn out razor sharp. I repeated it three time, same results.

I saw it myself! with the 16-35L and angle finder c set at 1.25x is

enough to see that autofocus is very wrong. Blurrrrry.

Bad boy!!

That's a great idea!

On a different monitor nikon looks better, color is neutral, while minolta looks yellowish.