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brad_herman1

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Posts posted by brad_herman1

  1. Here we have a Rolleiflex 2.8F "White Face" 12/24 TLR serial #2477482 with Carl Zeiss Planar taking lens #5389026. Pristine condition. If I were to be 'picky' and I am - there are only a couple, faint hairline marks where a tripod would attach to the bottom mounting disk.

     

    Overall, probably the most mint Rolleiflex 2.8F 12/24 WhiteFace that I've had in 30 years, (and I've probably had or sold close to 50) It is in spectacular condition. I can't imagine anyone who holds it in their hands disagreeing or being in any way disappointed. Japanese collectors are selling this sort of camera for $3700+ and I haven't even seen one this nice.

     

    The Zeiss Planar lenses are free of marks, haze or fungus. The camera works well. This is a camera that was purchased new by the original owner and never used after the first week he had it - and it shows. It has not been serviced to my knowledge. With that said, the advance is smooth and the shutter is excellent. At one second it seems a little slow, which should come as no surprise under the circumstances, but it is consistent. Focus is smooth, the self-timer works, the mirror is spotless and the meter works.

     

    It comes with a new original Rollei strap, incident meter diffuser and original plastic Rollei caps.

     

    Just look at the photos! I'm actually going to a photo show in a few weeks, and guarantee that both this and my mint Voigtlander Perkeo E will be sold.

     

    **If you PM me your email, I can send you a Dropbox link to the high-res photos**

     

    Asking: $3100.00 (net to me) shipped within the USA

     

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  2. I have for sale a brand-new and boxed Gitzo GT3542L Mountaineer Series 3 Carbon Fiber Tripod (Long)

     

    I purchased it for a camera system that I no longer own and never even took the tripod out of the box - except to photograph it.

     

    Load Capacity: 46.3 lb

    Max Height: 70.1"

    Min Height: 6.3"

    Folded Length: 23.2"

    Leg Sections: 4

    Weight: 4.3 lb

    Carbon eXact Tubing

    G-Lock Ultra Twist Locks

    Redesigned Top Spider

     

    **I will also include a new Gitzo padded tripod bag ($125.00 value) with tripod purchase)

     

    Asking: $799.95 (net to me) shipped within the USA

     

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  3. I have a Leica Q Silver Chrome Kit with 28mm F/1.7 Summilux ASPH lens, that was purchased from a US authorized dealer a couple of months ago as a backup and has just been sitting in the box unused.

     

    Needless to say, it is 100% pristine, mint and unused - 100% 'as-new' I even put a Leica LCD screen protector on since day one. Included is the Leica Q Silver Chrome Body Ref: 19022, all manuals, Lightroom CC 3-mo trial, charger, battery, cables, strap, caps, shade, inner and outer boxes

     

    The camera has been unregistered, so you can register it in your name, which is a very big deal. Even though these are great, robust and reliable cameras, without a warranty you are taking a big chance. You'll get a copy of the receipt (it doesn't matter that it is in my name, you can register it on the Leica Member's Area on their website in your name - 100%)

     

    **More photos available upon request**

     

     

    Asking: $3895.00 (net to me) shipped within the USA

    (Sorry, no trades)

     

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  4. I have for sale a gorgeous Rolleiflex 3.5F 12/24 (120/220) Type 4 with the 75mm F/3.5 Schneider Xenotar 6-Element Lens complete with Rolleiflex Leather Case, Strap, Caps, incident meter diffuser and manual (in German, English reprint available)

    The screen is the Rolleiflex Grid and Magnified Microprism Center. The camera is approx. from the 1971-1976 timeframe, (so it is one of the latest Whiteface models) and from the looks of it, it was hardly used.

    The serial number for the camera is: 285xxxx. There are a few marks on tripod mounting plate, and a few faint marks near the shutter release, but I'm being very picky. The lenses are perfect, the mirror is perfect, and the waist-level finder is perfect. This camera is easily 95+% mint.

    The case is the proper case for a 12/24 Rollei, as it accommodates the 12/24 switch. The case is also near mint, (95%, except for a surface scratch on the front) No rot, splits or loose stitching. I’ve seen cases alone in this condition and strap alone fetch $300.00. I have been using and collecting Rolleiflex TLRs for years, and I've yet to find a Rolleiflex 3.5F 12/24 Xenotar this nice. Just look at the photos!

    The camera has also had a CLA over in the Netherlands. Everything has been checked and calibrated. Every Rolleiflex, no matter how pretty or little it’s been used, needs some sort of CLA or overhaul to keep it in good working order.

    I hate to sell it, but I have two 3.5Fs, and one must go. Rolleis in this condition are typically selling on the 'auction site' for well over $3000, and many are not a late model, 12/24 'Whiteface'

    Asking: $2150.00 (net to me) shipped within the USAIMG_2755.JPG.f27e72981201722e8a1ac494af42b563.JPG

     

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  5. I have for sale a Leica Vario-Elmarit-SL 24-90mm f/2.8-4 ASPH Lens, used once for 60 shots indoors, complete and boxed, Mint++

    It was purchased new in March 2017 from an authorized dealer and was then put back in the box.

    • *L Mount Lens/Full-Frame Format
    • *Aperture Range: f/2.8 to f/22
    • *Four Aspherical Elements
    • *11 Anomalous Partial Dispersion Elements
    • *AquaDura Coating on Outer Elements
    • *Stepping AF Motor and Linear Positioning*
    • *Optical Image Stabilization
    • *Internal Focus, Non-Rotating Filter Ring
    • *Dust and Moisture-Resistant Design

    Sells in NY for $4950.00, Asking: $3750 (net to me) shipped within the USA

    **For more information, please contact me at bherman at townisp dot com**

     

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  6. <p>All;<br>

    I have a Rolleiflex 2.8F which uses Bay 3 (RIII) bayonet filters. For Bay 3 filters one can choose Rollei, B+W or Heliopan, when available, and when they are, they are quite costly.<br>

    My question is this, I can pickup a Bay 3 to 43mm adapter by fotodiox and source new B+W circular filters for around $35.00/ea, or a few $$ more for MRC Multicoated. I always use the Rollei shade, and I heard that the 43mm adapter fits inside the rollei shade.<br>

    The B+W Bay filters will run $62.00/ea. or the original Rollei filters can run a little less (or more) depending upon the condition.I'm looking for a yellow, orange and maybe a red one. <br>

    Besides running me 30% more, and inherent advantages of the Bay 3 over the screw in? I'm sure that the adapter isn't of the same quality as the B+W filter thread, so I suppose I run the risk of the filter not coming off or jamming - maybe or maybe not?<br>

    Or, should I just get the Bay 3 filters while I can? <br>

    Any comments on this?</p>

  7. <p>All;<br>

    This seems like a silly question, but here goes anyway. <br>

    I have a Canon 5D Mark III and the new Canon 24-70 F/2.8L Model II (the latest model). This is my main lens and the combo weighs in at > than 4lbs.<br>

    This lens has a locking mechanism, which (I believe locks the zoom). With several of my photo bags, the best way to put the camera in is 'lens-down', so basically, all of the weight is on the front of the lens. <br>

    Some bags have dividers with shoulders that sort of 'dog-ear' out, which places some of the weight on the dividers.<br>

    Do you think that I could potentially do harm to the lens, i.e focusing helicals or other? I mean, I can also mount my 50mm F/1.4 USM which will allow the the camera to sit on the bottom of the bag, but I would only have to remove it to put the 24-70mm lens on.<br>

    What do you guys think?</p>

    <p>Thanks</p>

    <p>Brad</p>

  8. <p>Tom;<br>

    I too had the same problem. Only 2-3" of my case unglued. I used a razor blade and removed the old thread. I just cut it flush to the edge. I used Gorilla glue, thinly spread with a toothpick. Only a little-as it expands, well, like a Gorilla. It has worked for me in the past, and holds very well.<br>

    Most shoe repair shops won't touch the repair, as the leather is dry, and the holes are already bored straight into the leather. As others have indicated, the only practical way to stitch is to stich like a coil binding of a notebook.<br>

    My current case is an OpTech Medium Wide Body Snoot Boot made out of neoprene with a draw-string top, and an OpTech Super Classic Pro Loop strap. It loops through and around where the Alligator clips go. It's very comfortable, as it's a 2" wide strap. Approx. $35.00 for both items.<br>

    Not elegant, but practical, and it just works.<br>

    Brad</p>

  9. <p>If you don't mind mailing it to Massachusetts, I would also recommend Youxin Ye. He does a nice CLA for about $130.00. He has done a few of my Leicas. You may reach him at: <a href="mailto:wye7@yahoo.com">wye7@yahoo.com</a>, or 781-830-9141.<br>

    Brad</p>

  10. <p>All;<br>

    I have a Leica M8 with a 28mm F/2.8 ASPH Elmarit, and a 50mm F2 Summicron. For some reason, I purchased a 35mm F/2.5 Summarit as sort of a 'bridge' lens, which would on the M8, give me pretty much a normal lens at 47mm.<br>

    Now, I'm wondering if the 28mm will suffice with an effective 37mm, and the 50 as an effective 67mm so, was the 35 a waste of $$ ??<br>

    I can return it, and can pickup a 75mm Summarit (effective 100mm) for a good, three lens kit?<br>

    What are you guys doing for your M8-M8.2s?<br>

    Thanks, Brad</p>

  11. All;<br /><br />I currently own a Leica M8, and have a 28mm and 50mm lens. On the M8, the 28mm is a (37mm equivalent, and the 50 is approx. a 66mm) Blah-Blah-Blah<br /><br />Anyway, I was thinking about a 35mm, (which would give me approx. a 46mm on the M8). I'm not looking to spend $3k on a 35mm Summicron. I've heard some good things about the Summarit and the Zeiss Biogons.<br /><br />The only thing about the Summarit is that the optional shade ($135.00) only screws in part of the way, as there is some sort of stop, which keeps it oriented properly since it is a rectangular shade. Now, what if I use a Cut IR on the Summarit, (which is pretty much mandatory for the M8)? Can the Optional Summarit lens shade screw into that properly, or should I just opt for a 'generic' B+W screw-in round metal shade for $25.00? <br /><br />You would really have to own a Summarit to know what I'm talking about.<br /><br />Please let me know your thoughts.<br /><br />Thanks, Brad

     

  12. <p>At 4000 DPI:<br>

    8-bit scan (67.3MB file) takes around 1-minute (not counting the preview scan).<br>

    14-bit scan (135MB file) also takes about a minute (not counting the preview scan).<br>

    What seems to take the longest is when I try to open a 135MB TIFF file. It takes quite a while rendering the image. Maybe this is normal, and there would be no benefit upgrading to Windows 7 64-bit and 8GB of RAM?<br>

    Should I be running any Perfmon Counters to see if there any bottlenecks?<br>

    Thanks;<br>

    Brad</p>

  13. <p>Hi; Hopefully, I am on the right forum, but here goes anyway.<br>

    I just picked up a Nikon Coolscan V ED Scanner. I'm using the Nikon Scan software to scan my negatives and slides etc. So far, I'm pleased with the results, and I'm aware that creating a 4000dpi TIFF file (135MB file) can take some time. A new PC is currently not in my current budget, but I was wondering if a memory and OS upgrade will improve things a bit?<br>

    I currently own an HP XW4400 Workstation 2.40 Ghz Core 2 Duo Processor, w ith 4GB of ECC RAM, NVIDIA Quadro FX1500 256MB Pci16 Video Card and 7200 RPM SATA drives. I was wonderi ng if I upgraded from Windows 7 32-bit to Windows 7 64-bit and upgrading the RAM to the maximum that my sy stem would allow, (8GB) would help. If not, I could save up and get an HP refurb (or equivalent) 3Ghz Dual or Quad Core Xeon system. I know that this will not speed up the scanner per se, but it may help with the 135MB TI FF files.<br>

    What do you think?<br>

    Thanks, Brad</p>

  14. I recently put my 40mm F2 Summicron-C lens on my M6. Yes, it does indeed bring up the 50/75 Frameline combination as expected. However, is there any effect from the difference in the focusing CAM on the M series camera vs. the CL? <br /><br />I'm not sure if it was me, but the M6's double-image focusing didn't seem quite as sharp/snappy with the 40 as when I used my 50mm Summicron Lens (which I no longer own). Maybe is was just the incandescent lights at night that were the issue? <br /><br />Maybe it's me or my eyes? Also, should the 90mm F4 Elmar-C also work fine on the M6, just as a say, 90mm F/2.8 Elmarit would, except for the loss of a stop?<br /><br />Thanks, Brad
  15. <p>Whatever bracket that you look at should be optimised for not only 6x6 format, but one that can accomodate a Waist Level Finder. Don't waste your time, and rule out looking at brackets that tilt and flip, because you'll be paying for features that you will not use.<br>

    In all my years using Rolleis, (over 25), I've settled on what I feel is the best 6x6 Rollei TLR Bracket. I personally think that the Jones J-120 Brackets are the best. They are simple, light and compact. They also will let you attach a Rolleifix (Quick Release Mechanism) to the Bracket Platform (or not), and they won't ever give you trouble. They are also great for Hasselblad, Mamiya RB-RZ etc.<br>

    Here is the link, and ask for Tom Pierce. He'll give you great, old-fashioned service as well!<br>

    <a href="http://www.veachco.com/j-120.htm">http://www.veachco.com/j-120.htm</a><br>

    Brad</p>

     

  16. <p ><strong>Hi;</strong></p>

    <p ><strong>I just picked up a new Nikon Zoom Telephoto Zoom-Nikkor 80-200mm f/2.8 ED AF-D for my Nikon D700. I know that the previous 70-200 f/2.8 ED was great on a DX body, but only 'fair' on an FX body.</strong></p>

    <p ><strong> </strong></p>

    <p ><strong>I use this range only once in a while, and the 80-200 got great reviews. I was unaware that the new 70-200 VR II came out, (which also gets great reviews, even on FX format).</strong></p>

    <p ><strong> </strong></p>

    <p ><strong>Perhaps the 70-200 VR II is a superior lens, but at more than 2x the price? Besides the VR technology, what is the difference? The 80-200 is also a "Pro 2.8 Lens".</strong></p>

    <p ><strong> </strong></p>

    <p ><strong></strong><strong>Any comments or suggestions? Is the 70-200 worth 2x the price? </strong></p>

    <p ><strong> </strong></p>

    <p ><strong>Thanks;</strong></p>

    <p ><strong>Brad</strong></p>

    <p ><strong> </strong></p>

  17. <p>I'm looking to pickup a Leica 40mm F2 Summicron - C Lens to be used on both my Leica film body as well as on my M8.2.<br>

    Does anybody have one of these that they've bothered to get 6-bit coded? If so, do I just get it coded the same as the 35mm F2 Summicron or is there a different code? I looked at the chart and there was a code for the equivalent 40mm F2 Rokkor counterpart, but there was no mention of the Leica F2 Summicron. I know that it is a similar lens.<br>

    Should I bother getting it coded for the M8.2? Also, what M8.2 framelines does it bring up?<br>

    Thanks<br>

    Brad</p>

  18. <p>I have a Leica M8.2, and the 28, 50 and 90mm lenses. Since the M8.2 has a .68x viewfinder, I thought that it would be useful to get the 1.4x Eyepiece Magnifier to assist in critical focusing of the 90mm Elmarit.<br>

    I think that the 1.25x Magnifier is too weak for the 90mm, so I noticed that most get the 1.4x. Is this a useful accessory? I see some folks buy them and sell them because they claim that they didn't end up using it.<br>

    Any comments?<br>

    Thanks, Brad</p>

  19. <p>I have for sale a Rollei 35 SE in Perfect Condition. It includes the camera, which is in 97.5% mint condition. some would say "like-new" or "Mint". I rate conservatively though, but it is a beauty! It includes the Rollei 35SE with the Zeiss Sonnar (Rollei 40mm F/2.8 HFT Lens), Original Rollei Case, new Rollei Gray Belt Case, B+W MRC UV Filter, Strap, batteries extra set, box (some tape on it), but still ok, and manual, papers etc. This camera look as if it has been used much if at all.<br>

    Recent CLA from Harry Fleenor, Oceanside Camera Repair.<br>

    Asking: $325.00 shipped within the USA<br>

    <br />See link:<br>

    <br /><a href="http://www.photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=1061550">http://www.photo.net/gc/view-one?classified_ad_id=1061550</a><br>

    <br />or email for info:<br>

    <br /><a href="mailto:bherman@townisp.com">bherman@townisp.com</a><br>

    <br />Brad</p><div>00VPJX-206341584.thumb.jpg.a15dcd972fdd476dce0682f2429fe163.jpg</div>

  20. <p>I just picked up a GF-1 with the Lumix 20mm F/1.7 pancake lens. I'm looking to pick up another lens. Either the Lumix 14-45mm zoom or the 45mm Elmarit Macro (when it comes out). I'm also intrigued by the 14-140, but some say that it's a bit too big for the GF-1. Apparently, this lens was designed for the G-1 or GH-1.<br>

    Another option would be a MF lens. I've owned Leicas in the past, and may pick up a body in the future. I know that CV, Lumix and Novoflex makes a Micro 4/3 to Leica M adapter. I'm not opposed to picking one of those up and getting a CV, or Zeiss 35 or 50mm lens for the GF-1.<br>

    I was wondering how easy it was to focus? Are the results really that good or is it just a compromise to just be able to use your 'legacy glass' on the GF-1 (or EP-1) for that matter? I mean, if I aleady had a few M-Mount lenses would it make more sense to get the adapter and go that route? Am I silly not to just get the lenses that were designed to work properly with the GF-1 in the first place?<br>

    Thanks<br>

    Brad</p>

  21. <p >Sorry if this is a 'sticky' thread, but I just ordered a Giottos 3" SP8300 Schott Glass LCD Scree

    n Protector for my LX3, and it just doesn't fit. I used one for my older Nikon D5000, and it fit perfectly. It was a grea

    t product.<br>

    Not only is it 1-2mm too tall on both the top and bottom, but the black bands eclipse part of the display.<br>

    I heard that the Zagg product, Invisible shield makes one specifically for the LX3, but I'm nervous about applying

    a wet solution to the LCD and around the buttons.

    <br>

    Any ideas?<

    /p>

    <p >Thanks, Bra

  22. <p>The other option that I was considering was the Zeiss 28mm F2 Distagon. I already own a Zeiss ZF 35mm F2 Biogon and a 50mm F2 Makro Planar. These lenses are stellar performers and have received great reviews.<br>

    Sean Reid gave the Zeiss ZF 28mm a pretty good review, most others only gave it a 'fair' or 'decent' rating due to its extreme curvature of field and out-of-focus frame borders on the FX bodies.<br>

    This is why I was contemplating the Nikon 28mm F/2.8 Ais. It's small, light, fairly inexpensive and gets great reviews.<br>

    Brad</p>

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