yuri_sopko

<p>The NEX-6 has a 2.36MP viewfinder. The a6000 and RX100M3 have the 1.44MP viewfinders. The NEX-6 being an older body can be had for under $300 via Amazon which gives you a return policy.</p>

<p>But, if you want to go smaller, maybe a used Canon G1X or G1XM2? They have an optical viewfinder, fairly decent size sensor (1.85x crop factor), and has all the technical controls one could want. Plus, off-camera flash support. Really, you could do everything with a G1 as you could with a DSLR other than swap lenses.</p>

<p>Powershot is too expensive. I'm talking under $50 and what I want to do requires that there be no shutter or mirror. Like those cheap Vivitars and Kodaks and what not you see at Walmart for $30-$50.<br>

I thought about the webcam idea and I do have a Logitech C920(?) that actually has a 5MP sensor. That complicates making it standalone but just now, a thought occured to me, to look for one of those small, Windows tablets you can find at Microcenter in the refurb/return bin for under $100. A little overkill but it would work and I can repurpose the tablet after.<br>

Only thing about webcams is how the sensor is mounted. The C920 took some extensive modification, I had to desolder the sensor and then use jumpers to allow for the sensor to be utilized with another lens. The original design was optimized for a small form factor with its AF lens.</p>

<p>You can buy a "newsed" a6000 on Amazon Warehouse for $480 or so. No lens though, but, what SLR do you have? If your lenses are manual then you can get any manner of adapter to use on a NEX body. There is an adapter to use Minolta AF and Canon AF on NEX/a series cameras. The key is the electronic aperture control. No mechanical linkage at all with a NEX/a body. So, it would have to be a later Minolta AF lens as I think the original versions required the in-body motor for AF and maybe had mechanical aperture control.</p>

<p>I have yet another project that I want to pursue. I've been looking up the cheap-o digital cameras but they are typically lacking in specification like sensor size.</p>

<p>Does anyone happen to know, which cheap camera has the largest sensor? Needs to be the single lens ones with no shutter as I'll be removing the lens entirely. I swear there was a spreadsheet that someone had made awhile back.</p>

<p>Some of these are at big box retailers, which is nice.<br>

In theory you could also get a NEX or Nikon/Canon variant and throw on a lens. Sell the kits lens and you can get a whole lot more than most of these for the same money.</p>

Sebastian, we have the same "mentor"!

Any ways, I have a Kowa 33.5/.95 that

I can use a close in portrait lens. Took

some machining of the lens but it

works. The 42/.75 is The same as well.

I have a few feet of working space. I

really want to be able to use these

lenses for their maximum. So, I'm on a

quest, and it'll be another attempt at a

NEX body modification. <br><br>

 

 

My very first attempt with a NEX ended

with me loosening a spring on the

shutter mechanism and that assembly

exploded. I bought a spare shutter but

it was junk. Just bought another NEX 3

body so I can use the one I already

worked on and was mocking some

stuff up last night. If I remove the dust-

cleaning frame and the AA/IR filter

block, machine down a stamped flange

on the shutter assembly, I can have the

sensor right on top of the shutter. I

should be within the BFL.

 

BTW: www.georgesopko.com is my

blog and I have most of my lens

adventures detailed in there.

<p>The BFL on this lens is about 6mm. Most of these older, X-Ray or image intensifier tube lenses are designed to be as close to the imaging tube as possible. That's the only way they are really that fast and as you get farther away it costs more and more and more.</p>

<p>Any ways, I found a decent deal on eBay for a NEX-3 w/lens. I have an idea how I'll mod it: 1) remove the AA and IR filter, 2) relocate the sensor and shutter to be outside the body, 3) machine a housing for it all. Probably have it mount into the existing E-mount bayonet and have the ribbon cables extended outside the current image sensor opening.</p>

<p>I'm familiar with the NEX-3 as I own one and I have already tinkered with it, it is error'd out, and I'll do the mock-ups with that one first.</p>

I have a NEX, which is by far the best

camera to adapt lenses too. But, the

lens I'm trying to use is 42/.75 and it

has a real short back focal length. Also,

the rest of the lens is just huge in

comparison to the rear element and I

can't get it into the camera body any

more.<br><br>

 

 

 

I might buy another NEX body and

remove the filter block and then find a

way to being the shutter closer to the

sensor. Another option is to use a

logitech C910 webcam as they have a

native 5MP sensor that will work in

Linux. Then maybe find a tablet but

that's just so huge. I was hoping for a

simple camera with a fixed lens and

rolling shutter to capture the image so I

can have the lens as close to the

sensor as possible.<br><br>

 

 

 

BTW (shameless plug):

www.georgesopko.com has all my lens

projects, etc. This will give you an idea

of what I like to do.

<p>I have a camera project in mind and I have been looking for a cheap, fixed focal length, digital. However, the only ones that fit this category are too cheap, like those $20-$40 things I see at WalMart, etc. I know that the cameras with the telescoping zooms usually have sensors installed which will detect/make sure that the lens is OK. ALso, my past experience with those is that the armature for that zoom lens is integreal to the overall structure of the camera. Not modular at all.</p>

<p>Today, I did notice the zoom types where the zoom is internal. As in it slides up/down and it's basically a periscope type deal. This might work as there might not have been any expectation of obstruction to the zoom assembly and if I remove it, it might work.</p>

<p>Anyone have any other suggestions? Looking for under $200.</p>

<p>You could surf on over to the Nikon site and actually look up their lenses. They will define which ones are FX or DX, AF-D or AF-G, etc.</p>

Thanks for the response! The M/F I was referring to is the male/female lens mounts on the moving stages. As I am a bit of a camera-

hacker I was curious if the bellows are glued to the plastic mounts or are screwed in. If they are screwed than I can reuse them for

other projects. You can tell by looking into the bellows, on the back of one of the plastic mounts. I have typically seen four, small

screws.

<p>I've seen these for sale by the usual suspects. That being said, does anyone have one? I'm mainly curious as to how the bellows are affixed to the M/F lens mounts (glue, screws, etc)</p>

<p>No, as it would cost more, at least for me. I am sure a bellows with full contacts would be expensive new. Then, you throw in the E to A mount adapter ($80) and then a A-mount macro lens (~$200?).<br>

This works well and the bellows extension is minimal and probably is where it needs to be for this lens. </p>

<p>Correct, this used to be a MF bellows made for the Minolta MD mount system. I then used parts of the Kenko DG tubes to provide full E-mount lens functionality. Collapsed the magnification is greater than 1x, looks to be 1.25x-1.3x and extended it adds an extra 1x, so, 2.25x give or take.</p>

<p>I forgot to include the link to my blog post: <a href="http://www.georgesopko.com/#!/2013/05/nex-minolta-compact-bellows.html">http://www.georgesopko.com/#!/2013/05/nex-minolta-compact-bellows.html</a></p>

<p>I made a (mostly) permanent adaption of my Minolta Compact Bellows to my NEX, with, electrical contacts! NEX-5N with bellows and NEX 50/1.8, quarter pics at f/8<br>

Bellows collapsed:<br>

<img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-7KUh6tVCfEQ/UZB4u656XNI/AAAAAAAABgY/uDB9_od7WkE/s320/folding+bellows+closed.jpg" alt="" width="320" height="240" /><br>

Bellows extended:<br>

<img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-UYEHbFUppnE/UZB4vKa0p3I/AAAAAAAABgc/WGhoHmQ7OIg/s320/folding+bellows+extended.jpg" alt="" width="320" height="240" /><br>

Quarter pics of collapsed and extended:<br>

<img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-RVl30jRQvB8/UZB4uJKbIBI/AAAAAAAABgQ/Ki-96kgNqHU/s320/_DSC3422.JPG" alt="" width="320" height="213" /></p>

<p><img src="http://2.bp.blogspot.com/-IatkNTCVqew/UZB4tdkTOeI/AAAAAAAABgI/nuFBOkpghX0/s320/_DSC3421.JPG" alt="" width="320" height="213" /></p>

<p>I will. I have to find the time. These lenses are sensitive to their environment. If it's too bright or too much light from the side they do not do well at all. I've got three other lenses, not this exact one but similar, that I also need to try out.</p>

<p>The bokeh is always superb though.</p>

<p>I got one of these a few months ago and finally mounted it. It's hopelessly near-sighted but I like it.<br>

<img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-lFTT-wVLs2w/UYHm7HtAqLI/AAAAAAAABTQ/5WTjuB7pAoY/s1600/kowa+42+front.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="754" /></p>

<p><img src="http://1.bp.blogspot.com/-nyueoWb14L8/UYHm7nWry5I/AAAAAAAABTY/AsbwUBgZ-rs/s1600/kowa+42+rear.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="752" /></p>

<p><img src="http://4.bp.blogspot.com/-quimhODLgmk/UYHns3bLKjI/AAAAAAAABTk/PgA4_rBYflY/s1600/kowa+42+zorro+eye.jpg" alt="" width="800" height="532" /></p>

<p><img src="http://farm9.staticflickr.com/8392/8548836639_2cb878e0e6.jpg" alt="" /><br>

Kowa 33.5/.95 on Sony NEX 5N</p>

<p>Nice, I like this lens and it's particular characteristics. In response to Fred C, that is the reason why some people like lenses like this, they are different than the typical lenses that one can buy. I myself would not spend as much as this guy cost. But, I like to certainly think about it.</p>

<p>Can't edit my last post... Any ways, did an eBay search and there are quite, as usual. If you are serious about purchasing one of these be sure to ask for more pictures of the lens assembly and interior shots of the camera and o-scope mount. This is to determine if you are getting one that has an actual dedicated lens. In the beginning, say the 50's and into the 60's they had a dedicated lens as that was basically the way to do it. The slow-scan CRT's were dim and the available (Polaroid) film stock may have not been the best. As time went on the CRT's got brighter and the film got better. The lenses became simpler and the manufacturing process shifted from stamped metal parts to injected molded plastic. That is what you have to watch out for. By all means, buy and tinker away, just choose carefully.</p>

<p>This is very possible. But, would it be economically feasible? Having the lens professionally modified would take some time and therefore be rather expensive. I know this first hand as I have a lathe and I buy surplus lenses and the like and modify adapters. It can seriously take hours.<br /> BUT, what you can do is just start tinkering (it's where the crack-like addiction begins). <br>

OK, I just did an image search on that Samyang 14/2.8. Looks very do-able. I'd look for a really thin MD mount adapter. It can be for anything at all, IIRC, the MD to M42 adapter is rather thing as the two are the same if not real close. Once you get that MD-M42 adapter and the lens: 1) remove the Samyang rear mount, 2) test fit the MD-M42 on the Samyang with the likes of electrical tape (it works and its removable) to see if you can still achieve infinity focus, 3) if it does work then you will have to drill in counter-sunk holes into the MD-M42 adapter and then mount it. <br>

<br />I have performed these steps before. The hard part is #3. I usually start with a small drill bit the width of the screw thread, then, very carefully and by hand, take a larger bit and counter sink. As of late, I have been using a hand-vice and an end mill bit (which is square and not tapered) to make my counter sinks. </p>

<p>Hrmm... something to be very careful of is if the o-scope camera actually has a decent lens. The ones that I have seen, for Tektronix and the like, have a fairly poor lens assembly and shutter. This could have been the model that I bought, looked like a 70's, maybe, early 80's era model. Lots of injected molded plastic all throughout and the camera/lens combo was a joke. Think along the lines of those $5 cameras you used to get on a give-away or something.<br>

Maybe, with the older ones, say, 50's and 60's, you might get an actual lens barrel assembly made from brass. But, you better check those auction pics really carefully or else you'll end up with a "hunk-of-junk".</p>

<p>Yes, every time you press the focus button, the camera will focus. This is intentional.</p>

<p>If you want to use DMF, which is when you use the lens focus ring to fine-tune your focus, you have to keep your finger on the focus button.</p>

<p>For focus peaking on all lenses enable the focus mode to DMF. You will get the peaking all the time, however, if the camera is doing the decision making and chooses a small enough aperture then the peaking may not be as obvious.</p>

<p>I strongly suggest that you download the manual from Sony. A 5 second Google search yielded this link which has both the manual that is shipped with the camera as well as some more definitive guides for the BEGINNER.<br /><br /><br>

http://esupport.sony.com/US/perl/model-home.pl?mdl=NEX7&LOC=3#/manualsTab</p>

<p>You have to set this within your camera menu, go to setup. Then select to "release with out lens" to on. You have to chase through some menu's to dial-in how you want the buttons to work. But, the lower button is the "pixel-peep" for when you MF or DMF.</p>

<p>Which, make me think to ask you to check your settings when it comes to focusing. DMF is the best as it allows you to "pixel-peep" with a Sony E-mount lens if you want. You just focus normally and turn the focus ring if you want to fine-tune it.</p>

<p>When X-SYNC pin goes LOW(GND) or HIGH(VCC)? At one point in my life I knew this information readily but I can not seem to remember in high confidence. IIRC: X-SYNC fires when it goes LOW(GND).</p>

<p>Thanks...</p>