jonathan_russell

I am one that does not believe that properly functioning hardware and software suddenly get a mind of their own and decide to mess with you. I would say that either you are screwing up your settings (which you have stated that you are not) or your printer is broken.

Personally, on my 2200 I have never had a magenta cast or other flaw show up that could not be traced to my mistake.

Jonathan Russell

I scan 16bit, everything off, greyscale, 2 passes. Once in Photoshop CS, I usually apply some USM. Might do a slight curve adjustment depending on exposure. I scan HP5+, Tmax, and Trix. I am very happy with my scans. I see no difference in sharpness when comparing color scans...though I rarely scan color. I do most of my color work with a digital camera.

For what it is worth, I love this scanner. The 35mm holder is great. Keeps the film very flat. I use the glass rotating holder for medium format. Great film focus to the edges. Once the rotating glass holder gave me newton rings.

Jonathan Russell

http://www.kbcamera.com/summicron35mm.htm

Jonathan Russell

If by shutter lag you mean a pause between pressing the shutter release and the camera firing, then neither of my R4 cameras have any shutter lag. They are both...almost...as immediate as my M2.

Jonathan Russell

Regarding sharpness.

If I read correctly in an earlier post, you have a relatively recent 50mm summicron R. You would be hard pressed to find a better and sharper lens anywhere, especially if you are keeping your shutter speed above 1/60 hand held. I frequently shoot this lens wide open, available light, at 1/30th hand held with good success though. It is the lens that I have pretty much welded to one of my R4 bodies.

Several of us have suggested that you shoot a roll of slide film, since slide film has no latitude. Doing this will let you know whether the shutter speeds are correct and how well the built in meter is working. Shoot a scene that approximates what a grey card would reflect, such as a forrest background or something similar.

Meter the scene, set the camera to manual, and set your shutter speed and aperture. Shoot the same exposure value at as many shutter speeds as you can without overrunning the aperture limits. Document your settings for each frame and have your lab number your slides. I find the built in meter to be good, but easy to fool with backlit scenes or black scenes.

Does your 50mm lens have the built in lens hood?

One point of wear that shows up on this camera is the foam light seals around the film window and around the film door. These are readily available and easy to install.

Have fun Julie.

Jonathan Russell

Julie,

Lord, you would think that spending 289 on an R4 body was a bad thing. Shoot some slide film and see how it does. I have two R4 cameras and actually like them a lot. They are a bargain. They may not have the snob appeal of other leicas, and yes my M2 seems somewhat better built, but they are a nice feeling manual focus camera. Leica does still repair them too.

BTW, you have one of the best lenses in the world. I have made beautiful photographs with the same combination you just bought.

Jonathan Russell

Marc,

How exactly did you talk Leica USA into changing your rangefinder. I have held off on buying an M7 because ...after agruement after arguement with Leica USA... they refused to guarantee that if I bought a "new" M7 that it would be one with the MP finder. They would not give me a serial number where the change occurred. What they did with the early M7 finders was just wrong in my opinion.

Jonathan Russell

I would never change my contract for a potential client. The mere fact that this person tried says volumes about what the person will be like as a customer. Just say NO. Also, I have not had to shoot a wedding where either the bride or groom or any of their parents are lawyers, but I would likely not accept the client if they were. Seriously...

Jonathan Russell

First, let me say that this forum is very interesting to read. I appreciate the contributions from Mark and everyone else. It really helps to "hear" first hand how others do it.

I decided to think about transporting my equipment to an event in two ways. Kit one deals with all of my formal photo equipment, backup equipment, and extra film. This includes my Hasselblad gear, my qflash lighting gear, and backup candid equipment. I got tired of having all of this stuff in separate little bags. I hated the multiple trips back and forth lugging each separate bag and I kept forgetting what equipment was in which bag. So, I store everything in kit one in a large Pelican rolling case. During formals, my photography partner rolls this Pelican thing around with me. Everything is right there. I use the Pelican case with velcro/padded dividers and re-aranged it to hold everything neat and organized. Once formal photographs are over, I store this case in a central location at the reception and it becomes kind of a home base for our work during the rest of the event.

Kit two is what I carry around. I hate carrying around stuff when I am shooting candids. It completely gets in the way of me being effective. So, I don't carry a bag. I shoot primarily with an EOS 1V non HS on a rotating Custom Bracket with a 550 flash. I have drilled holes all over my custom bracket and run velcro straps thru the holes to cary along extra film. I can carry around 5 rolls of film all strapped to my Custom Bracket. I always start with a new battery for an event, so do not carry an extra one with me. My lens is a Canon 24-70 L. Maybe not quite as sharp around the edges as a prime, but it is much faster than swapping lenses and much more convenient. I don't miss shots swapping lenses. I don't drop them either. Sometimes, for short periods of time, I also carry over my shoulder my Leica with either a 50 or a 90 and 3200 speed film.

I don't think this will change much when I switch to the 1Dmk2 body soon. Also, I am always team shooting with my photography business partner...we decided to shoot events and only do events that could support two photographers. So I don't have to think about switching from color to black and white. If my partner is shooting color, I shoot b&w, etc...

I work out a lot, which helps with dealing with the weight of my bracket/camera/lens/flash/extra film contraption, but I just could not do an event if I knew I had to walk around with a bunch of stuff in my pockets, hanging around my neck, strapped to my back, etc. I have tried it and it makes me hate it. I will post a photo of my bracket/candid setup some time if anyone is interested. It is kind of funny looking.

Thanks again for everyone's contribution. I have read many of your interesting posts for a long time now, but I seldom post myself.

Jonathan Russell

Buy a Quantum Z or turbo Z battery and the Quantum cable model CZ. This combo works perfectly.

In my opinion, your problem is all related to flash recycle...or your flash is broken. If you are (as you say you are) placing your focus point on your subject's skin tone, then you should not be using compensation either. Use the high speed setting only if you need depth of field control that is not possible with the standard e-ttl setting (ie: when the ambient light prevents shutter speeds below 250 given your desired aperture setting).

Have fun.

Jonathan Russell

Here is the photo.

http://www.photo.net/photo/1650254

When I solved this problem for myself, I wanted the following. I wanted to keep the scissor connectors because they are just the best way to connect a strap to a tlr that uses the scissor connection. I wanted a comfortable strap around my neck. I wanted it to be strong.

1) I bought a OP/Tech strap..one of the ones with the quick-disconnect on each side.

2) I bought two thin black leather dog collars, making sure the leather was the same width as the Rollei scissor hardware.

3) I connected two 8" strips of the leather to the scissor hardware with rivets.

4) I connected the other end of the leather to the OP/Tech pieces that get released from the main part of the strap that goes around your neck.

5) Perfect..for me at least.

Pictures are worth a thousand words though. Take a look.

Jonathan Russell

Cameron,

But isn't this a public whining forum. Call it whining if you want, but it just irritates me when a company with such a compelling history with beautiful and functional products asks its customers to step up and pay for the very best gives something less than that. My customers won't let me get away with it. I suspect yours won't either.

Thanks everyone for all of the information and feedback. So, the concensus seems to be that while the early M7 rangefinder can flare, the circumstances that cause it are infrequent and the measures needed to correct it are trivial. OK, good enough. Even Jay feels this way. Maybe I should buy a used one, see if I can live with it, and sell it if I cannot.

To those who have asked whether I have actually used an M7, no. I have used an M6. I own an M3. The M6 did flare on occasion. I agree that it was not a terrible big deal. Do I think a 2,500usd camera should have a flaw that has apparantly been going on for 20+ years? NO.

Would I prefer to purchase an M7 that has a rangefinder design that reportedly eliminates/virtually eliminates flare? Yes, given equal prices. Do I wish Leica would provide the data that would allow me to make that decision? Yes. Do I still think Leica is wrong? Yes. They have devalued the cameras of early adopters and have made it impossible for new buyers to make an informed buying decision.

Bob,

The comment was based on my experience with an R8. And yes, the circumstances indicate, as well as others that I have heard about, that Leica has shipped old units to retailers over the years.

Bob,

I don't have an M7. I have an M3. I have never purchased an M6 because of flare. My whole thing, really, is that I want to be able to make a purchase and know that what I purchase has the MP rangefinder. Not too much to ask in my view. Maybe Mike Dixon has it right and I should buy from B&H, not withstanding his criticism for the way I spend my time. BTW Mike, I have been reading these forums for around 2 years now and have never posted a question until now.

So Bob, do you buy into Jay's assertion that that Leica knew that they would be installing the MP rangefinder in the M7 but first wanted to reduce existing inventory levels of M6 rangefinders? If so, do you think Leica is playing fair in doing that? I don't. I also don't believe that they don't have a serial number cuttoff where the change occurred.

Harvey,

I think rude is as much about tone of voice as anything. I was not being rude. Mostly, I was introducing the idea of deciet for deciet argument. Unless I am seeing this wrong, or have incorrect information, I believe that Leica has deceived its customers. Why should deceived customers treat Leica any different? Also I wanted to know what rangefinder they would use as a replacement. Take a sacremoneous moral high ground attitude if you like, but people who purchased the early M7 cameras that flare who cannot sell them for 1700usd probably feel different.

Steve,

GM, no.

BMW, yes.

BTW, I give no gold stars for her willingness to answer my questions. She is a representative of the company. And, thus, here responses represent the company. Her responses were unacceptable.

Lucien,

If they have in fact made a change to the coatings, then why did the person at Leica clearly state that the rangefinder was identical to that which existed for the M6?

Please don't kill me for bringing up this topic again.

I want to buy an M7. While I would likely be just fine with whatever

rangefinder version, I would like one like the MP that

minimizes/eleminates flare. I spoke with an individual at Leica US

and she just made me mad. First, I asked her whether M7 cameras are

now being produced with the MP rangefinder. She said that all M7

cameras after January 2003 have the MP rangefinder. I asked how I

could tell whether a camera has the MP rangefinder or not. She said

that there was no way to tell, not even with serial numbers to her

knowledge. I expressed that this was rediculous. We all know that

retailers may have stock that was recently produced, and may have

stock that is a year old. We also know that Leica has been known to

ship old inventory too. She agreed, but offered nothing not even

sympathy. I then said, fine, I will buy a USA M7 with a passport

warranty. If it flares, who knows, it could accidentally fall off of

a building or something. Would you fix it with an MP rangefinder?

She said yes, but the warranty does not cover intentional repairs. I

assured her that it would be accidental. I asked her whether she

thought it was ethical that M7 literature speaks specifically of the

improved rangefinder, yet the early M7 cameras had no improvement.

She said that the early M7 had the same rangefinder that has worked

just fine in the M6 for 20 years. I asked, so you don't have a

problem with the fact that the literature says one thing and Leica

delivers another? She said no, when I buy a car I know that the next

model will have improvements that my model does not. I said yes, but

you would not expect to buy a BMW with a 3.0 inline 6 engine and find

out 6 months later that it really had the 2.5 litre version. She had

no comment. I said, well don't be surprised if you guys in repair

start seeing a lot of crushed M7 cameras in for warranty repair.

Then, I asked Poon at HK supplies whether he knew anything about

serial numbers and current M7 cameras having the MP rangefinder. He

called Leica and wrote me the following...

"I checked with Leica and this may be a rumor.

Leica has this plan but they did not make it yet.

Best regards,

Poon"

Then, I read these forums and see mention of the MP rangefinder being

in current M7 cameras. Some people speak of serial number prefixes

288 having the MP rangefinder.

Honestly if I already owned an M7, and it did not flare, I would not

be worried about it at all. I do think Leica is wrong here. Maybe

part of my frustration is the principal. Leica is wrong.... What can

be done? Nothing. I guess I should just buy an M7, hope it does not

flare, and forget it. Sure seems to me that I am just reinforcing

Leica's bad behavior though.