allen

I had the same dilemma recently. I found that in shooting my children's soccer and gymnastics, the G5 was limiting. I went with the Rebel XT since I already had CF cards and a 420 Speedlite. It made more sense (to me) than buying into a completely new system and accessories.

You have to decide on a film too, so you probably want to make that decision and then check the films data sheet for filter suggestions. See the data sheet on www.ilford.com for SFX200, for example.

 

Regards,

 

Scott

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I am not sure what you mean by a "medium amount of play." Perhaps you should go try out some other lenses at a Leica dealer and see if the lens has a problem or if your expectations are too high.

 

Regards,

 

Scott

OOOOO<div></div>

....<div></div>

I have used Ofoto, Shutterfly, Dotphoto, and Adorama. The best of the bunch is Adorama, followed by Shuttrrfly and Dotphoto, in my experience. You should try them all out, most have free trials of one sort or the other.

Ocean City Pier<div></div>

"But at half a second, decisive moment metering is a pipe dream."

 

Exactly how does one decisive moment meter? Inquiring minds want to know.

 

Regards,

 

Scott

:::<div></div>

Okay Ben, show us how it's done. Why don't you post a photo and tell us whay it's "worth" posting here, or what makes it "good" or what you are trying to accomplish. Set an example for us. Please.

Not if goggle-eyed man had anything to say about it...<div></div>

Here's one<div></div>

...

Try Gandy at cameraquest.com

Allen,

 

I've seen this problem before. All you need is the new Beano brand CF card!

Well, kinda

I see a lot of good and interesting things here apart from the focus and grain issues that Patrick mentions.<p>I am particularly fascinated by the idea of movement raised by the cane and the dark hallway and the light that she is looking into. Her immediate future here is unknown, but, as with us all, then end is the same. She looks like she getting ready to rise and go, but which way?<p> The shadow, representing lack of light and substance is echoed by the empty basket in the empty chair and the barren walls. In some sense I find this photograph ominous and it can also be read as hopeful.<p>

I like the shot. My only nit-pick would be the blown-out arm and shoulder.<p>How did you meter this?

I have used the old M4-2 Winder and, once adjusted, it worked fine. However, I didn't like the weight and size it added to the camera, so I sold it. If you could buy one at a good price you could try it and if you didn't like it then resell it.

"Photoshop is to photography what gutting and cleaning is to fishing--the vile aftermath of a pleasant experience."

 

Many would say the about developing film and the darkroom process.

I recently priced a M6 bottom plate and they run about $250.

The best Leica M with aperture priority auto-exposure!

Noddy, I think Steve was alluding to the fact that M6 top plates can't show brass because they are not made of brass but are, in fact, zinc. Don't sweat it, I think most folks know what you meant and that you aren't a troll.

 

Enjoy the MP!

 

Scott

I have used the Digisix and can offer some first-hand experience.

 

I have found the Digisix to be accurate. It is small, light, and easy to use. I use it primarily as an incident meter and getting a reading involves positioning the meter, pressing a button, reading the EV, and turning the dial to the EV and read your exposure options.

 

A dial-type meter like the Digisix can be very useful. If, for example, you want to keep your camera at f11 to preserve depth-of-field, you can immediately see what shutter speed f11 matches up to at the indicated EV.

 

There are two buttons on the Digisix and with a little practice changing modes and settings is quick.

 

The Digisix is a useful tool. I would not dismiss it based solely on Dante Stella's review mentioned above. While I have addressed most of the issues he brings up, I would point out that battery life has not been an issue for me and the 1/2000 top speed on the dial is not an issue for M users.