aleksandar_kujucev1

Wayne,

What camera you are using your new adapter with?

Can it be used with 1DsMkII?

I would like to use my old Pentax K 15mm/3.5 lens with my 1DsMkII, but I wouldn't like to get it damaged...

This lens is just fabulous!

This was/is a known problem with Lexar 2GB 80X and 1DsMkII.

It is a card firmware problem.

Images just dissaper and you have to extract them with some image rescue software.

Lexar has a free exchange program for certain series of their CF cards.

I also have this problem with my Lexar 2GB 80X and 1DsMkII.

"David Freeman , mar 08, 2005; 10:10 a.m.

"I took all seven of my lenses and they calibrated the camera for the correct "AF stop point" of each lens (which due to the age, or manufacturing variations is unique for every sample)."

Where did you take your equipment? Directly to a Canon service facility? How long did it take to get your equipment back? Thanks."

I took it directly to the Canon service - it is in my town, so I just walked in. It took them only three days to do it :-)

"You sent in multiple lenses? How much was *that* repair bill?"

It was free since my camera is under waranty...

"Canon quoted me $185 for the adjust on the dRebel *plus* $125 for the adjust on the 85mm!"

I don't know why they are charging you for the lens, since IMO all adjustment is done on the camera only!

My 10D had front focusing problem and I replaced it.

My new 1DsMkII had this problem also, but not with all lenses. Also the problem was different on each lens.

When I went to the service, I was told that this actually is a camera/lens combination thing and that it is unique for each lens.

I took all seven of my lenses and they calibrated the camera for the correct "AF stop point" of each lens (which due to the age, or manufacturing variations is unique for every sample).

They are perfect now!

Yes, you can use your old lens on a 20D!

If it is a original Ashi Pentax Takumar 24mm/F3.5, it is a M42 mount lens, Pentax SFX has a K mount...

Dou you have a M42 to K mount adapter attached to your body?

M42 to K adapters are fixed to the camera and not to the lens.

If you must rotate and unscrew the lens to remove it from the camera, this is the case!

Just get a M42 to EOS adapter - they are very common.

I'm using lots of old Pentax glass on my 1DsMkII. I find using Ec-A and Ec-B (microprisms and split image) focusing screens a must for focusing. Unfortunately 20D does not have interchangeable focusing screens and you don't have any focusing confirmation with it...

Build quality is just great! All metal - feels sturdier than any Canon L wide zooms.

Manual focus is very nice too, it has some sort of a push-pull clutch when entering MF mode. Manual focusing feel is like on old MF lenses from many years ago.

Optically it is excellent too. I was offered to buy one used, but it had strong back focus problem on my 10D and the 17-40L that I finally got was 3mm wider... Just test for focus accuracy and if it is OK, I think you will be pleased.

I don't know how Tokina is doing with sample to sample quality - I had mixed results with Canon...

Hi,

I just received my new 1Ds MkII.

It arrived with some dust on the sensor.

On my old 10D I used Eclipse fluid and Pec Pads on modified thin

plastic knife to clean the sensor.

But with 1Ds' full frame sensor it is hard to reach the corners.

I also bought Kinetronics' (www.kinetronics.com) SpeckGrabber thingy.

Its' concept sounds fine, but how it really performs? I still didn't

dare to actually use it.

If you used it successfully, do you have any tips?

Thanks,

Aleksandar

>>And YES the paper was PERFECTLY parallel to the sensor plane!

>How you're so sure is beyond me.

I used the mirror method - I have a big mirror in my home and since it is not distorting it is flat... You just have to place the camera on a tripod, point it to the mirror and move it untill the center of the focusing frame is aligned with the exact center of the lens reflection in the mirror. This way there is an imaginary axis going through the two lenses (one is virtual since it is a reflection) and the mirror is then plan parallel to film/sensor plane. Then, you just tape the newspaper over the mirror!

>Does your camera have similar problems with other lenses? It could >be your sensor is not parallel to the lens' focal plane.

All of my lenses are fine - I only once had one EF24-85 which was pretty beaten up, having similar problem. But you could see on the outside that it was somewhat crooked :-)

<p>Hello again,</p>

<p>Since I got no comments on actual lens performance in my old post

regarding

my brand new EF135/2L lens<br>

<a href="http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=00AEzy">http://www.photo.net/bboard/q-and-a-fetch-msg?

msg_id=00AEzy</a><br>

and since everybody tried to convince me that my test was flawed, I

had to do

the "proper" newspaper-on-the-wall test :-)

<p>And YES the paper was PERFECTLY parallel to the sensor plane!

<p>Test photos are here:<br>

<a href="http://www.kujucev.com/135_text/135_text.htm">http://www.

kujucev.com/135_text/135_text.htm</a>

<p>As you can see, the left side of the frame is still less sharp.

<p>So, my question is: is this abnormal for a 135L, or is it tolerable

sample

to sample variation?

<p>The first 135L that I returned to B&H was maybe worse as you

can see on

this page:<br>

<a href="http://www.kujucev.com/135/135.htm">http://www.kujucev.

com/135/135.htm</a><br>

the old lens is lens "A" the new one is lens "B"

, which

one looks better to you?

<p>Yes, the distribution of blur is different than on newspaper test,

but the

inner focusing group is rotating, so (possibly missaligned) elements

are differently

rotated at 2m and at near infinity focus...

<p>OTOH, when I compare the corners at 100% pixels to my old

EF100-300/4.5-5.6

consumer zoom, my new 135L is wide open as sharp (or even a tiny bit

sharper)

as the zoom is at 135mm position at f11!

<p>So maybe I'm asking too much! But the upper right corner looks so

good @ f2,

that I would like all four to be the same!

<p>What do you think, is it a lemon or is it OK?

<p>Thanks again,

<p>Aleksandar

Dear Giampiero thanks for showing interest in this thread :-)

>>is it possible then, that the difference be explained by the changed axis? Since ALL lenses showed the L side as the 'worse' side that could explain it: by moving the camera to the RIGHT of the orginal AF point you'd changed the axis and distance of the lens to subject therfore making the L corner softer.

I don't think so... I moved camera to the left of the orginal AF point too and the right side didn't become soft at all. Since I focused on the center of the screen, if moving the camera around would cause any softness, it would be the same in all corners. Anyway the objects in focus were too far away, so their focus could not be affected by changed axis (in my opinion at least)... Not ALL lenses were affected only two copies of 135s. Other three lenses 90, 85 and 100, were just fine - corners were almost identical, so it seems that my test procedure was working after all.

Giampiero,

I forgot to explain focusing and recomposing part...

I focused only once using central AF point at the objects that you can see on the samples. Then by moving the camera on the tripod I recomposed and placed them for each shot in four different corners of the frame.

My camera is set to central AF point only with custom function 4 set to 1. This way I use the * button to focus and pressing the shutter button is not causing refocusing. I used the RS-80N3 remote switch to fire the shutter.

So I recomposed for each shot and put the same object in different corners. I already mentioned that the objects I've chosen were near infinity focus and that recomposing wouldn't affect their focus.

I tested this way, since DOF on this lens is extremely shallow and I wasn't sure that I had any objects that were absolutely plan parallel to the sensor plane.

The structures were also very different, so comparing the same object would bring out the differences more easily.

I forgot to mention that I ordered 1Ds mkII.

Because of the bigger sensor, it will be less forgiving on the edge unsharpness...

Hi,

<p>I just went back from a New York shopping trip.<br>

I bought EF 135/2 L, EF 85/1.8, TS-E 90/2.8 lenses and a EF 100/2.8

macro for

a friend.</p>

<p>After returning from B&H to my hotel, I wanted to check my new

lenses for

problems, since I've read a lot about Canon QC issues lately.</p>

<p>I've put my 10D on a tripod and started taking pictures through

hotel window.

<br>

I placed the same object in the center and in all four corners of

the frame.<br>

Since the objects I've chosen were near infinity focus, I believe

that recomposing

was not an issue.<br>

I tested all lenses at full aperture for focusing issues, lens

elements misalignment,

etc...</p>

<p>The 85, 90 and 100 lenses performed as expected, but on the 135 I

noticed a

pronounced sharpness loss at left side of the frame, especially

lower left corner.</p>

<p>I took it to the B&H for a replacement. I tested the second

sample right

in front of the store and judging from magnified LCD view it seemed

OK.<br>

I'm apologizing for the technical quality of the pictures. The

weather was really

bad for taking pictures, dark cloudy rainy day, so I had to raise

the ISO to

400 since I only had a kind of flimsy tripod that I borrowed for

testing. But

I think that you can see the difference between the lenses easy

enough...</p>

<p>The shots are all JPEGs - I was judging the performance from the

LCD at maximum

magnification, so no need for RAW. I know that viewing on a computer

would be

better, but I had none at the time. I also thought that if I notice

a flaw on

the LCD, it must be real!</p>

<p>I went back home the next day.</p>

<p>Now when I view the pictures from the second 135/2L on my computer,

they are

better indeed, but not perfect. Left side of the frame is a little

bit softer

again.</p>

<p>So the question is should I bother to return it again? <br>

This time from across the globe it wouldn't be so easy and I have no

guarantee

that the third lens would perform any better (it may even be worse).

</p>

<p>Or maybe I'm expecting too much? I was pixel peeping at 100%.<br>

I mean 135mm lens @ f2 must be of complicated construction and not

so easy to

manufacture. <br>

I was completely blown off by the sharpness at the right side of the

frame at

full aperture!<br>

Many other lenses I tried are much worse than the less sharp left

side of the

frame on my second 135/2L<br>

By f2.8 everything looks much better...</p>

<p>I just don't know if this is normal and what should I expect from

this lens!</p>

<p>What are the experiences with your samples of the same lens?!?!</p>

<p>I posted the samples on this address:</p>

<p><a href="http://www.kujucev.com/135/135.htm">

http://www.kujucev.com/135/135.htm</a></p>

<p><br>

The page is loaded with photos so it may be opening a bit slowly.

</p>

<p>There is also a quick comparison with my new EF85/1.8 too...</p>

<p>The first lens I bought is lens A and the replacement is marked as

lens B -

which looks better to you?<br>

I know the photos are not that good - I just didn't have time for a

proper shoot

since I got really busy right after returning home.<br>

Samples from lens B are especially of low contrast, but I think the

resolution

differences can be judged or at least guessed :-)</p>

<p>Thanks,</p>

<p>Aleksandar</p>

Zero Assumption Digital Image Recovery:

http://www.z-a-recovery.com/digital_image_recovery.htm

It's freeware and works great! Saved my butt when my assistant formated the CF card that I forgot to transfer files from.

I had this problem on a EF24-85 that I bought used. It was very beaten up and lower left part of the frame was noticeable softer at full aperture. By f8 it was OK.

The image in the viewfinder was "jupmping" a bit during focusing - I guess some lens elements or groups got loose after heavy abuse. I've also seen similar effect on many cheap plastic zoom lenses.

Finally I sold it and bought 17-40L which doesn't have that problem at all. So maybe yours could be deffective?

All L zooms that I tried (28-70, 24-70, 70-210) were smooth and rock steady.

Was it new or used?

Hi everybody,

I have an offer for a "like new" EF 70-200mm/F2,8L USM (version

without IS), complete with case, hood, etc...

I have few questions:

a) What is the price range for this lens (I live in Europe, so prices

here are bit higher) - the seller asks 1000 euros, is this OK?

b) How does it compare in image quality to IS version?

c) Since it is used, what are the possible problems specific to tihis

lens - what should I check first? I have no experience with long L

zooms - I've seen pictures of them only :-)

d) I shoot with EOS 10D, any issues with this camera? I'm asking this

since I saw few people having problems with focusing accuracy using

70-200mm/F4L with 10D.

Thanks!

Aleksandar

Don't worry it is perfectly "normal" if you are usiing green "idiot mode"!

In that mode, camera is choosing AF point for you, based on contrast and very often the object with most contrast is not the object that you want in focus.

When you half press the shutter button, the active AF point will glow in red, often not on the spot you would like it to be! Just forget the green mode. It also changes ISO on the fly...

I think that most of the other idiot modes (with little pictures on the dial) behave in the similar way - I never use them so I'm not 100% sure.

If you need all auto mode, use P mode instead and use only central AF point (and recompose) for better AF accuracy. I use CF 4-1 so I that I can focus with * button.

Melissa, - thanks! It's been almost a month since I posted this 10D replacement info... At first I hesitated to post, knowing that I might get flamed, but my source was one of the official dealers and it was kind of fun to (maybe) be the first person to post more or less accurate inside information.

Michael, I don't think that EF-S 10-22mm, or EF-S 18(17)-85mm with IS could be lucky guesses, since there were no information/speculation on such lenses on any "predicting" web sites or forums that I'm aware of (especially for the EF-S 10-22)!

I hope that I helped some poor souls who agonized over decision to buy 10D now, or wait for upcoming replacement. I also hope 20D will be better camera for the same money. I don't plan to upgrade my 10D, unless there is a spectacular leap in image quality. I'll save money for the 1Ds...

Yes you can do it.

This is the way I'm using my 10D from the day one!

When you are shooting in a studio and the distance between you and a model is constant, it helps a lot not having to focus and recompose for each shot!

Just boght a S50 on a clearance sale - there is a newer model, S60 which has wider lens, larger movie resolution and a bit smaller body.

I have paid 370 euros for it - just one month ago it was going for 550 - 600 euros.

Try some online search and see if you can get a good deal. I saw them going for a price as low as 340 - 350 $ in "reputable" stores.

This camera is in a higher league than A80 and A75.

I'm very pleased with mine.

Hi everybody,<br><br>

I just went to a camera shop to buy a PowerShot S50 for my wife. A

friend of mine introduced me to a local Canon dealer. He just came

back from some dealers meeting, where they have been informed about

new products for the next season:<br><br>

EOS D20 body: 8.? Mpix (I think 8.3), 1.6 crop sensor, EF-S mount,

5frames/sec, larger buffer (he forgot how large)...<br><br>

EF-S 10-22mm lens<br><br>

EF-S 18-85 IS lens<br><br>

some other lenses...<br><br>

I'm not sure if this is really true, but I think that the official

embargo is untill some time in August.<br><br>

So we have to wait and see!<br><br>

<a href="http://www.yurope.com/people/kujucev/index.html">Aleksandar

Kujucev Photography</a>

Did you use CF card exclusively with your camera, or you use it also with a card reader as an external drive, to transfer other files between computers, as I do? It happened to me once - I forgtot to erase some DivX movie from the card - "no image" warning but the card was almost full...

<br><br>

If you don't have a card reader, try to get one and see what happens... You'll also benefit from MUCH higer file transfer speed - 80 min (camera) vs 7 min (USB 2.0 reader) for a 1GB card.

<br><br>

If something is wrong with your card and the photos on it are valuable, try saving them with this excellent free software: Zero Assumption Digital Image Recovery

<br><br>

http://www.z-a-recovery.com/digital_image_recovery.htm

<br><br>

It just saved me some very important RAW files when my assistant accidentaly formatted one CF card...

<br><br>

Otherwise just format the card with your camera - maybe it will help.

<br><br>

Pozdrav!<br><br>

<a href="http://www.yurope.com/people/kujucev/index.html">Aleksandar Kujucev Photography</a>