thomas_vanagt

Hi Arthur,

I bought the camera because of the camera, not because of the - alleged - history (I paid what a camera this age and in this condition is worth, nothing more).

It would just be nice if this were true. He was the photographer on the wedding of Prince Charles and Diana, who knows he actually used the SWA there ;-)

Thomas

So his wife is still alive? Any idea how I could get in contact?

I bought an old SWA on ebay, and the seller says it belonged to Lord Lichfield. Can't be too difficult to find out with serial number.

Is there anybody who has records of the hasselblad cameras Lord Lichfield used

during his career?

This is the exif of my last image:

Unknown (0093)3,9 : 18,2,8384,0,0,0,4,0,3

I bought the camera last week, and I am still in the 'trial period'.

According to the seller, camera had about 35k actuations.

I did some research on the net, and the actual number should be:

2x 65000 + 8384 = just under 140k

this means shutter would be almost dead.

Is this 'second number = X * 65000' rule also true for the 1Ds of only

for the 1D?

Thanks

Thomas

Thanks for the answers!

with slow, I meant the small buffer.

I am familiar with the ergonomics of both the 5D and 1Ds (I've used several eos 1 film bodies and eos 1D bodies in the past).

Buying a specific wide-angle for the 20D is not really an issue, since I already have the following wide-angles: 7.5mm, 14mm, 15mm, 16-35, 24TSE and 35 1.4 (all canon). So I really don't want to spend more money on a lens like the 10-22 EFs.

I guess the 1Ds seems to be the best option. I have the opportunity to buy one used at about 1000USD less than a new 5D.

I am going to Alaska later this month and I'd like to take a FF body

for landscape work (I'll take a 20D for tele work).

Now since I don't have a FF yet, I have two options (budgetwise): a

new 5D or a used 1Ds mark I. The latter option is about 800 USD cheaper.

I am planning on selling the body after the trip, somewhere in March,

so resale value is an issue here.

So, how do these two cameras compare? I expect very low temperatures

in central Alaska, which would be in favor of the 1Ds. However, it

apparently eats batteries. I also guess it can be frustratingly slow.

What would be your choice?

Thanks!

Thomas

this is a picture of the lens:

http://img99.imageshack.us/img99/6282/300is1vi.jpg

I can test the lens (local pick up) and I've seen pictures taken with it (impressive!)

I already own a 300mm f4 IS and a 300 2.8 non-IS, so I would replace those by one 300mm

What would you pay for a well used ef300mm 2.8 IS? Lens comes from a

sports photographer. A lot of paint off. Has a new USM-motor from

09-2005. Some small marks on the front lens.

I have to decide by tomorrow...

Is renting an RV or 4 wheel drive camper an option late February - early March?

Gives you all the freedom you want, and you save on accomodation which is very (VERY) expensive for European standards. But is it safe? How about driving icy roads with an RV? And keeping an acceptable temperature inside the cabin?

Thanks for all the help. This really is a great board!

So what about the equipment issue? How will a hasselblad perform in the cold?

Any particular car rental companies that can be recommended? Should we book in advance, or shop when we arrive in Anchorage?

Hello,

We finally decided to go to Alaska next month. We will be there for a

bit more than 2 weeks, beginning on the 23th of February and starting

in Anchorage.

Now I have lots of questions, partially about photography, partially

about travel

1. what equipment to take?

I was thinking of taking 2 systems, one digital and one

battery-independent.

So I'd take 2 hasselblad bodies (leave one in the car, in case the

other one brakes down) with 3 A12 backs (again one backup), a 40

and/or 50mm, 100mm and 180mm (or 120mm instead of the 100 and 180).

My girlfriend would take the eos 20D with 16-35 2.8, 35 1.4 for the

aurora, 70-200 f4. For wildlife (eagles?) we can choose from a

100-400IS, 300 f4IS or 300 2.8.

Is this a good idea? Or would you leave the digital equipment at home

just because it won't work in the cold?

2. we would like to make some kind of road trip. Any suggestions,

taking into account we will have a rental car?

3. what kind of car would be needed: a 4WD, or can you get by with a

normal car (with special tyres?). Recommended companies?

4. Good locations to photograph the Aurora? And some suggestions on

how to take pictures of it?

5. special precautions we should take (in terms of clothing, shoes,

survival stuff)?

6. Any particular wildlife to expect? Is it worth taking a whale cruise?

7. places where you can make an affordable dog sledge tour? Or

snowmobiles? In the Rough Guide, they talk about 200 dollar per person

per day, as a minimum...

Well, a lot of questions, but any input would be more than welcome

Regards,

Thomas

Tom, I wouldn't ask these questions if it wouldn't be for the warnings in the Rough Guide, as far as I know the most reliable travel guide for destinations worldwide.

They only talk about May-September, it really seems like no tourist is coming to Alaska in Winter/Spring. According to the Rough Guide roads are closed in winter, hotels and travel agencies are closed, etc.

Before paying a lot of money (flying from Europe to Alaska is bloody expensive) I thought it'd be wise to ask here first. Sorry I did.

Thanks for all the answers!

Can you drive to Homer with a rental car, or do you need a 4WD?

Is the road from Anchorage to Fairbanks open in March?

I like the suggestion about the snowmobile, but I guess it is extremely expensive to rent one?

Hello,

My girlfriend has to be in Anchorage next March. I was thinking of

joining here there and travel for 2 weeks.

But it seems like everything in Alaska is shut down in March. Is there

any point in trying to get around? Is there anything to see? I guess

the bears are still sleeping...

Thanks

Thomas

as you can see here (http://www.photo.net/photo/3518724) I did take my hassy to the Galapagos.

In the end, I decided on taking one 500cm body with the 50CF and the 150CF. This turned out to be a perfect combination. I also had a 2X converter, which I didn't use once.

I had one back with velvia 50 and one with b&w (also iso 50). Light was no problem, unless I was using a polarizer.

I had a tripod on the boat, but I never had the chance to take it with me, it is too cramped in the dingi, and there is little time on the islands.

My girlfriend took my eos 300D with the 16-35 2.8 and the 70-200f4, and she really enjoyed this combo.

And the results? Well, I am still in Ecuador, so I haven't had the slides processed yet. The digital photos look really good though.

Well David, I am a marine biologist, and for my research I have been travelling to Ecuador 4 times the past 3 years. Unfortunately, the Galapagos were too expensive for me. Now I finally have the time and the money to make a 'tourist class' tour.

I hope you will get there one day as well!

Thomas

I am going to the Galapagos next month, but still have to book a tour

(I am hoping to find a good last-minute deal in Quito).

Has anyone been there recently? If so, any recommendations for good

boats/guides? How about weight limits on the aircraft?

And off course: what photo gear to take? I asked the question in the

canon and hasselblad forum, since I have a lot of gear of both, but I

still haven't decided.

The hasselblad will give me the most brilliant slides, but is there

time to set up a tripod? How about weight (long walks?)

Thomas

Well, I know some pre-production models are more valuable for collectors.

On the back of the camera, it also says: 'demo' (as on the E12tcc I have, which is from 1991)

Can anyone check what is the serial number of the first hasselblad 205Tcc?

I think I have a pre-production 205 (1990 date code), but I'm not sure

@Daniel: thanks for the kind suggestion. Some people do not have internet at home (at least here in Belgium)...

The dark images I was talking about were polaroids. I made some slides (provia) during the weekend, I should have them developped by Wednesday.

Then I will know if it was the lens (I tried several lenses, just one with the polaroid back), the light meter (don't think so, since it gives the same readings as my 35mm camera) or just me (most likely).

The one thing I learned playing with the flexbody is that it takes a lot of practice to get it right, but I had a great time!

I seem to be getting very dark images out of my flexbody. Is there a

rule for exposure compensation I should know?

I am using a minolta autometer IVf.

Well, I am not only going to the galapagos, so I'm sure I'll take the 50mm.

I just found another option today: the 70-300 DO (thanks for the link to luminous-landscape!). I know it's not the very best lens around, but it is light, has IS, 300mm, and is better than any of the other lenses for candid street work (black vs. white!).

The only think left is whether to take the 24tse or not.

I have to decide today which lenses I take on my galapagos trip next

month. Well, I actually have to decide which extra lens to buy.

This is what I currently own:

16-35 2.8

24 tse

50 1.4

28-70 2.8

70-200 4.0

300 4.0

1.4x

Now, I think the 16-35 and 50 are certitudes. But what about tele.

Should I get the 100-400IS and take it as only telezoom? Or take my

current 70-200 4 +tc and buy the 300 4IS?

I know the 300mm I have right now is better than the IS-version, but I

think IS could proof a great tool on this trip.

O, before I forget, bodies will be eos 30 (slides and b&w) and 300d

My 50mm 1.4 won't focus anymore. Well, actually, it does, but only

from far to close, not the other way round.

Since I have 2 copies of the lens, I would like to try to fix this

myself. Any suggestions?