jumpmaster

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You don't read too well, do you T.J.??? (I said this exact thing about "your" idea on the acetate transfers on the 18th...)

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Would anyone ELSE like to recommend and outline the same procedure for using acetate transfers to replace worn aperture markings that's been given twice now on here????????? :-)

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Please read through the entire thread...if your solution is identical to someone else's, no need to bother typing it out again right??

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TMB

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From my response from 18 JUN 01:

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What you *might* try is going to a local hobby store and picking up some acetate transfer sheets -- they come in different colors, different fonts, and different sizes. A well-stocked store should have what you need. Once you (CAREFULLY!) align the number onto the ring, use a dull pencil to transfer the number onto the lens barrel. You might also put a very small dab of clear fingernail polish on top of the new number to reduce wear.

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Your [T.J.'s] response 22 JUN 01:

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I have never tried this, but have always kept in the back of my mind if i had to resort to it...

But at some graphic arts supplies store, they sell rub down letters and numbers. I would pick out a size and color similar to the existing ones and use a ball point pen and rub down the missing number onto the ring.

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Rub down type is fragile all on it's own. At this point, you could use a small model paint brush and carefully dab and brush on a clear protective layer of some sort to prevent the number from chipping off.

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This is just a theory at this point and I have never tried it like I said before.

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Yadda, yadda...I already gave him all the appropriate caveats in my post...geez. He asked for suggestions on how to paint the numbers back on -- not the number to Hasselblad.

I know you people seem to get a big kick out of saying, "bleh...I wouldn't try that if I were you...feh..." but some people are simply wanting suggestions. I try to give folks workable solutions to their problems without being judgmental about their willingness to fix things themselves and with an appropriate amount of caution conveyed in my message.

FWIW, I think Bill may appreciate legitimate solutions to his question to a greater extent than finger-shaking...

So yes, Bill...do call Hasselblad and ask them how much to fix it...when they tell you it costs half the price of a new 150CF, please feel free to try one of my suggestions. :-)

TMB

I'm not exactly sure why my answer didn't show up the first time, but here it is again --

I've had this problem on my 80mm 2.8 T (chrome) lens...I almost bought the black 80mm T* lens, but number repainting problems (and other issues) made me lean toward the chrome one. I was able to use a superfine-tipped Staedtler marker on my lens (no white markings on the chrome lens)...your situation is a little more difficult since you need white markings...

What you *might* try is going to a local hobby store and picking up some acetate transfer sheets -- they come in different colors, different fonts, and different sizes. A well-stocked store should have what you need. Once you (CAREFULLY!) align the number onto the ring, use a dull pencil to transfer the number onto the lens barrel. You might also put a very small dab of clear fingernail polish on top of the new number to reduce wear.

I HAVE NOT TRIED THIS and it is only a suggestion...I will accept no liability for this procedure...that said, I have no reason to believe that it would cause any harm or that it wouldn't work.

Alternatively, some folks have said there is a man (in California?) that does renumbering like this and that Hasselblad may have some of the bands available as a repair item. If you want to go the safe route, I'd probably replace the whole band if you can find one for the 150CF (I wouldn't think it would be too difficult to get one...)...

Good luck! (Hopefully my note will actually get submitted properly this time!)

T. Bloxom

p.s. I haven't seen a 150CF lens up close...if the lens actually has _engravings_ for the numbers and the paint has come out of the engraving, you may be able to do something as simple as rubbing a white, wax crayon over where it used to be. Rub off the excess and the white wax will fill in where it was engraved before. Again, do this at your own risk, but it should work nicely if the lens had already been engraved for the numbers (my 80mm were painted (screened?) on, so I couldn't do this...)...

Well, thanks again for the good info...I did call KEH and I spoke with Glenn...he was very helpful and willing to do as much as possible to make me a happy customer again. Here's what we're figuring...

We think the back is a dud as you guys have said was probably the problem...so I'm sending it back and getting an "excellent" A12 back -- the price was reduced because it had been notched for ID purposes...that doesn't bother me, so it's ok.

Now for the lens...a tougher decision here. The nice 80mm 2.8 C (Chrome) looks nice on the 500cm chrome body. The shutter motor is a little sluggish on the 1 second setting while holding the camera with the lens pointing toward the ceiling. I'm not sure when I would use that position except for maybe taking pictures of my skydiving buddies landing (Yes, I also skydive...:-) ) and in that case I'd be using a fast shutter speed (unless I want to try something creative like intentionally blurring/streaking the background), so maybe I shouldn't worry about it -- but it does sort of bother me. They said they won't do a CLA on it for me...I'd have to pay for the CLA and it would take about 2-3 weeks to get it back. They offered to exchange the lens but they have no more chrome 80mm 2.8 C lenses at the moment in "excellent" condition. They have a bargain one and they also have a bargain 80mm 2.8 C black T* lens.

Now...there are a couple of things that concern me about my decision. On the chrome one, it already had some wear on the shutter speed numbers that I carefully wrote back in with a superfine tip Staedtler alcohol-based marker. The black T* lens would be great, but I worry what to do if/when the markings on the lens begin to disappear there. It's easy to use black markings on a chrome lens -- I have no idea what to do about the markings on a black lens. I can't think of any very classy way to preserve the markings either.

The black T* would be nice but in "bargain" quality, they said it might have "cleaning marks" that shouldn't affect the picture quality. The "excellent" chrome one has really good optics...I can't see any scratches on it at all...the bargain one is about $100.00 cheaper than the chrome one I got so I can get a CLA on the black one and probably still be cheaper than the chrome one. (Even though it would be another 2-3 weeks to get it back)

So...1) Does anyone have any advice about the shutter in my chrome lens? Will simply exercising the shutter mechanism help the little timer motor in there work better? 2) Is it better to have a cheaper T* lens with possible (likely?) cleaning or a more expensive non-T* lens with great optics? 3) What about the markings on the lenses? The black T* in bargain quality will surely have some obliterated markings if my "excellent" chrome one did...I'm leaning toward keeping the chrome lens and just hoping the shutter timer starts working properly in all orientations...

Thanks for all your kind words and helpful advice...one day, maybe I'll gather enough knowledge to be able to help out others like this in photography...:-)

T. Bloxom

Thanks for your helpful responses! Since messing with the camera a little more (very gently), I noted that if I (with the dark slide removed) press the release button on the magazine, it lets the back off just slightly enough to where it will engage the gear on the body. I think you're right though...it does sound like the back is messed up. I just hope it's not the hooks on the body or something like that -- they appear to be fine, but I don't have another one to compare it to.

As far as being frustrated after spending good $$$ for an excellent system, you're right there too...you're also correct about KEH...I'm sure they'll be very cooperative in getting this fixed or switched out. I've bought several things before from them and have always been very satisfied until the bad luck with this back.

I also discovered the shutter is slow on the 1 second shutter speed...sometimes the motor in there just sticks...that's a little depressing also -- the condition on the lens (80mm 2.8 C) was "Excellent"...maybe it just needs to be exercised a bit for it to eliminate that...

Thanks again for the good advice...

T. Bloxom

Hello everyone...

I've been reading the archives on the medium format digest for some

time now and am quite impressed with the expertise demonstrated by

most of you! I have a problem and hope someone here will be kind

enough to speculate about what it could be...

I've been a photographer for about 7 years now and I just bought a

Hasselblad 500CM with 80mm 2.8 C lens...I also bought an A12 back.

All of the equipment was used and purchased from KEH. As some of you

may know, they tend to underrate their equipment. The lens

was "excellent" condition while the back and body were "bargain"...if

you're not familiar with what that means to KEH, "bargain" describes

the physical appearance of the item (brassing, etc) and not the

operation. Unless it is denoted as "ugly", it's supposed to work

fine. (So please don't try to tell me I bought junk...:-) )

I attempted to shoot a roll of T-Max 400 through the camera today.

Much to my chagrin, I was unable to advance the film while winding

the crank (on the body). Some background -- I read about 3 sets of

instructions and am certain I loaded the film properly, I do have the

original manual and have read it as well as Wildi's "Hasselblad

Manual"...so I'm sure everything was set up correctly...the

indicators on both the magazine and the body were white when mated.

What happens is when I attach the back, release the shutter, and wind

the crank, the gears on the back are not engaging with the gears on

the body and the back actually comes apart from the body slightly

when *trying* to advance the film. (It wouldn't advance easily

without manipulating the magazine and/or forcing it, so I stopped...)

Does anyone have any idea which part is at fault? As far as I can

tell from visual inspection, the gears look fine...no missing teeth,

not worn, etc...it makes a $1200.00 setup about worthless with a

problem like this and it's very frustrating. I don't know which part

to send back to KEH for replacement...(and it does irritate me that

it wasn't checked for proper operation before they sold it as working

fine if it turns out to be the magazine.)

Any constructive ideas will be greatly appreciated...BTW, I'm not

sure if this is a related issue, but the film indicator window stayed

red even after loading film...from what I've read, it should be white

after loading film...I'm trying hard to maintain my patience.

(Please, no "Why don't you trade it for a Mamiya?" comments...I don't

think those will help fix the busted Hasselblad...:-) )

Thanks for any help...

T. Bloxom