mechs

Hi everyone,

You may remember my post from a few months ago when I was looking to acquire a Rolleiflex. After many attempts, I finally found one that belongs to a friend of a friend. He is selling his 2.8F and kindly allowed me to borrow and test it for a week before I make my decision. I have put a couple of rolls through this camera and everything works fine and the photos are good. The camera was recently serviced as well so I've decided to purchase it. But I noticed a rather peculiar thing when inspecting the camera closely. This is something I've seen on other Rolleis as well so I wanted your opinion.

The camera, when I look at it head on, appears to be slightly misaligned, where there is more of the silver border showing on the right than on the left. I've attached images on closest focusing distance and when the shroud in back into the body, circling the silver line. It's like the shroud sits not in the middle but slightly to the left, therefore showing more of the silver border on the right than on the left. However when it comes to focusing or taking images, everything works fine. Focusing and image quality are all excellent.

So is this a potential sign of damage or just the way these cameras are?

Thanks

"Assuming" something had an overhaul is a NO NO on the internet. Even if claimed to have had a "recent CLA", the seller must provide documentation or it didn't happen.

Re. your examples, I would personally avoid any camera with visible strong impact to the structure, it is too big a risk unless you have good return and refund privileges. I would rather accept reasonable wear and factor in a competent CLA.

Or you can buy a completely rebuild and often LN from: Link --> Magicflexcamera Camera shop

He usually do not have many to choose from on the site, but if you follow his Instagram account, you'll get an idea of what is in the pipeline and notification when new things goes up.

I actually looked at that link a few days ago. The cameras look incredibly nice but the prices are out of my range unfortunately.

Hi All,

I am contemplating buying a Rolleiflex 2.8 (leaning towards an E but F would be ideal) and need some advice.

I have been looking at reputable seller listings on the bay and am trying to determine what cosmetic imperfections I should and shouldn't worry about when I'm ready to buy.

I have attached a couple of photos from listings for your consideration as examples.

In the first example, the camera is listed as "Mint -" and 94%, the optics are clean, and the camera loosely matches Dan Colluci‘s advice about examining the original paint on the crank side of the camera as a visual test of its general wear. That said, look at small dent in the highlighted area.

Are little dents and dings like these potential signs of trouble with the optics or overall performance of the camera?

Are they considered normal wear and tear for an item marked as excellent or mint?

When looking at the ding like this, is it assumed that the camera has at some point been dropped or smashed against a hard object and had an overhaul?

The next example has a serious dent in the bottom right.

For those of you who own a Rolleiflex, which one of the above is a deal breaker when purchasing these cameras?

Would you have any problem buying a camera like the above two examples if the glass, shutter, viewfinder, and the operation were otherwise mechanically in excellent shape?

And, realistically, what are the odds of finding a 2.8E or F with almost no cosmetic issues?

Hi All,

I just got my hands on a beautiful Canonet QL17 and noticed that the rewind knob moves around freely as I move my hand while holding the camera.

I loaded a test roll and checked the rewind crank and film advance mechanisms and all seem to be working properly--the film loads and advances as it should, there is no slack and the movement of the crank doesn't seem to do anything to the film. The frame counter works as it should and I am able to rewind the film fully and without any issues.

However, turning the knob to tighten the slack after initially loading a fresh roll of film, I noticed that the rewind knob spins back after I tighten it. I also noticed the fork (part of the rewind mechanism in contact with the canister) is a bit loose. I unscrewed/screwed back on the assembly but that didn't seem to fix the issue.

My question is: is this something that needs fixing or normal for this camera?

None of my other film cameras behave this way, the rewind knob will usually stay in place after tightening the film tension initially.

PS: I haven't had a chance to develop my first roll of film shot on this camera yet.

Ok good news. No light leaks. No visible scratches. All in focus. I must admit the photo's didn't knock me out as regards sharpness or quality of the image.

I have got similar results with my Rollei 35. Maybe B/W is more suited ? Here some photos I took to test the camera.

 

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Well, it looks like you have yourself a fully functional camera. I'm not seeing any issues with sharpness but then I am all about that grain.

Let us know when you make a decision!

Thanks so much to all who answered. The tips were really useful. @mechs it was really interesting to read your feedback.

 

Today was an exciting day for me. My first experience with a Leica camera. Up to now I have shot film using a Nikon FE2 (my favourite), a Rolleiflex 3.5F and various Rollei 35s. I borrowed the Leica M2 and the Elmar 50mm and shot a test color film.

Good to hear you had a blast using the camera. I recently sold a Nikon FE but love my Nikon FM, which is my favorite. I will never sell it.

I'll echo what SCL said above and say that most of those little things can be taken care of with a CLA. I'm not an expert on viewfinder optics but it could just be that the inside of the front element needs a good wipe. As far as the image not being in perfect focus at infinity, again I'm no expert but, it could be because the Elmar lens isn't properly calibrated. Did you try another lens? Also, bear in mind that true infinity is probably at least a mile or two so if you focused on a building across the street, that would probably look a bit out of focus.

I first bought a Voigtlander 35mm Color Skopar which is a fantastic lens at around 300-400 euros . I later returned it and got a used Summicron 35mm ASPH (the above photos were taken with this). Honestly, if I hadn't sold a bunch of other stuff and didn't have the cash on hand, I would never buy the Summicron. The Voigtlander is about 90% the lens at roughly 1/5th of the price. For a 50mm, you can try the Zeiss 50mm Sonnar or a similar Voigtlander for around 700-800 euros, or probably cheaper.

I wear glasses and have astigmatism too so the 35mm framelines are barely visible to me. That said, I am a strictly 35mm shooter and spent some years shooting rock and metal shows in pitch black environments. Not seeing the edges doesn't bother me one bit, but your milage may vary.

I should also mention that my M2 has the famous Canadian balsam bubbling around the edge of the prism--supposedly a sign of trouble that could kill the viewfinder one day. From what I've heard from most owners, their cameras have had the same issue for decades and they are fine. My point is, these are old cameras and they all have little things that could go wrong at some point. If the images turn out okay and the price is reasonable, and most importantly you aren't the anxious type who loses sleep over these things, I'd say send it in for a proper CLA after you get it. That way, you will have peace of mind. There are also those who don't believe in preventative maintenance/CLAs. You could just shoot with it until something goes wrong and then get it CLAd.

PS: I also didn't rewind my first roll properly and opened the back plate in broad daylight. Luckily, only 4-5 frames were affected and the rest were okay. I just make sure to rewind for a bit longer just in case--hasn't happened again!

PPS: I don't know where I read this, but someone said something to the effect of: "if the camera looks clean on the outside, it is probably clean on the inside" or something like that. Probably not always true but if you've shot film before (which you have) I bet you already have a good idea about the condition of the camera. Go with your gut feeling. Again, the six month warranty is a big plus so make sure you get it in writing.

Keep us posted on how things go.

I hope you don't mind me jumping on board this thread.

 

I've been thinking about buying and M2 too (!!) and visited a local camera store that had one for sale with an Elmar 2.8 50. This was the first time I have had a Leica camera in my hands or tried out a Rangefinder.

 

I tried to test some of the things I had read here. Slow speeds such as 1 sec worked fine and sounded right, however with my ear to the body at all speeds I could hear the shutter open and close but this was followed by some whirring (speed gears ?) that gradually decreased. The salesperson said this was not a problem, just "cosmetic" but could be fixed if needed. Here I'm not sure.

 

The viewfinder lines were clear. This was my first time with a rangefinder patch and I must admit I did find it a bit difficult to align the two images. I was inside in a quite dark room testing pointing out through a window on a very bright sunny day. If I pointed at single objects (such as a leaf) it was fine but a bush was more difficult. Hard to know if this was just my inexperience or a dull viewfinder.

 

I checked the curtains and they open completely and close completely. They might have had very slight minor marking. A film had been run through the camera and there were no light leaks. The shop is offering 6 months guarantee. Your thoughts are most welcome.

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Hi Jim,

Here is my experience and I hope you will find it useful.

I did a lot of research before buying my M2. I learned that there is considerable variation among existing M2s as far as viewfinders and other things are concerned. The viewfinder in mine has a blue tint, is a bit dimmer than other models, has a contrasty and bright focusing patch, and clear and bright framelines. The gear noises you hear are more pronounced in the slower shutter speeds and the shutter is very smooth and relatively quiet yet with a nice and firm click.

I actually called Youxin Ye and asked him about the viewfinder and other things I thought were issues on mine and he reassured me that the dimness or blue tint were not an issue. He also said there is pretty much nothing that can't be fixed on these models so as long as the camera is in working condition and there are no obvious signs of trouble, I would feel confident proceeding. Also note that it is more difficult to focus in darker environments and with things like leaves in a bush--that's just how it is when you start out with a rangefinder.

If the price is good (or the budget is there) and the seller is offering a six month warranty, I would have no problem buying it. You could also try what I did: take a roll of film with you to the camera shop or the person selling it, take properly exposed images in or just outside the shop at slow and fast speeds (especially 250-1000s) and really work the focusing patch. Take notes on each exposure (shutter speed, focusing point, frame number). Get the film rush developed and if everything turns as expected, the camera is good to go. If not, then you can either haggle on the price or move on. Also be sure to test whether the infinity focus is accurate on a good and properly calibrated lens. Maybe ask the shop to fit the camera with a Summicron 35mm if they have one.

Also, make sure you look at this Leica buying checklist: Leica M Buyer's Checklist.

I have since bought a Leica M6 but am already considering selling it because the M2 is just magical. It is the single greatest piece of photographic gear I have owned. Here are a few photos:

Looks beautiful. If you're inclined to eradicate the bubbles yourself (at the risk of inflaming some), see if you can gently peel up a corner of the skin from the shell adjacent to one of the bottom corners of the film door. If it looks like there is a rubberised cement/contact glue that is holding the skin in place and the skin is flexible, you'll soon get an idea of whether it can be peeled up. In this case, you can gently (*gently*) remove the skin by cleaning as you go with a few cotton buds and some isopropyl alcohol before applying a fresh thin layer of new cement and smoothing the cover into place.

 

Otherwise, leave it as it is and enjoy! Great find.

There's a simpler way: apply heat on the bubbled areas with a hair dryer - then push the bubbles out. Simple.

Thanks. I actually found out that the bubbles were not oxidation but rather hardened air bubbles. I did end up making an X mark on one of the bubbles with a blade and was able to push the excess air out. I did manage to put a couple of scratches on the metal frame underneath (my signature!). Seeing there is no oxidation, I've decided to leave it alone and enjoy the camera instead. It truly is a magnificent camera. I paired it with a Summicron 35mm asph version 1 and all is running smoothly.

Aki-Asahi in Japan is also a great and inexpensive source if one wants to refresh the covering: Aki-Asahi Camera Coverings

This begs the question: have any of you actually seen a Leica M with Zeiss bumps before? And would putting on a new leatherette cover from Aki-Asahi require any specific set of tools, other than a scraper to clean the oxidation, some thinner/acetone, and q-tips?

Beautiful. It looks like the original vulcanite is replaced with leatherette. Vulcanite is usually stone hard and flakes off in pieces if it lifts from the camera body. No big deal unless you are a collector.

Yep, poorly done as well. Not a collector but those bumps are ugly and I wonder if the metal surface underneath was damaged at all during the process. I've read that the original vulcanite is extremely difficult to scrape off.

Thanks for the update. It sounds great so far.

I can't see your attachment though:

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The requested attachment could not be found.

Thanks. I got the self-timer to work as well!

When I looked for my first Leica, of the first 10 I looked at (M2's and M3's), half had small edge droplets of brownish/golden color which I was told was a pre-stage to de-cementing by online forum members. I rejected some pretty good deals because of my paranoia.

The camera I ended up buying was a ratty beat up M3 with a lovely 50mm Summicron lens. The camera had actual de-cementing in the finder, clearly visible as a shiny uneven patch across 1/3 of the finder area when looking from the front towards the back, but perfectly clear when looking normally through the finder.

I bought it because it was so cheap, and even if the camera should break the next day, it would still have been a good deal because of the lens.

I ended up using the M3 for a year, before selling it in favour of a M2 (I needed the 35mm frame-lines). That is 20 years ago and I know for a fact that the camera has been in use up until now without further deterioration of the finder.

 

I later bought an M4. It had just been CLA'd - I saw the paperwork - but after two days of using it, the shutter curtains jammed and ripped apart. Surgery was needed at Leica and the cost of restoration set me back just as much as the price had I paid for the camera itself.

 

I had a friend who owned a perfect M3. Like many Leica owners, he had a mild degree of OCD and babied the camera. One day he put it down normally on a marble cafe table and the finder blacked out - separated!

 

My point is that you can do a lot of research - and you should, but the outcome of your choice is not really predictable when we are talking about cameras of this age.

If you make sure the camera feels good and operates as intended, and otherwise looks healthy, you can't really do much more - other than make sure you can afford an overhaul if it is needed.

 

I own an M2 and I don't think there are any specific things I would look out for compared with other models. If you see any signs of de-cementing, you could ask if finder separation/blackening is covered by the warranty. And make sure the take-up spool is in the camera.

There's enough information here to give me a high comfort level about this particular M2. Look through the finder and if everything looks clean and the RF patch is contrasty and clear - if you're really interested in buying it - then go for it!

Thanks, everyone. I went ahead and inspected the camera. Cosmetically, it is in very good shape with minor scratches on the top and bottom plates and some bubbling of the vulcanite near the self-timer and frame selector levers. Nothing drastic or urgently in need of fixing.

In terms of mechanics, the shutter and film advance lever are buttery smooth, the focusing patch is very bright and contrasty with no bubbling or any other imperfections. The viewfinder itself is clean but a shade darker than my M4-2, and seems to have a bit of a blue tint/cool quality to it. I shone a light through the viewfinder both ways and looked into it from the front to back and didn't notice anything unusual. I tested all shutter speeds and listened to the 1 sec in particular and can hear the roaring and whining of the gears. It all sounds pretty similar to my M4-2. The rewind knob is smooth in operation and otherwise solid when locked down. The bottom plate locks on pretty tight and the vulcanite is in very good shape (not sure if it's original) except for the bubbling issue. The film speed indicator in the back is pretty awesome and turns perfectly well. The self-timer lever/function doesn't seem to be working, unless I am not operating it properly.

I put a roll of Kodak 200 color film and am getting it developed as we speak. The only problem today was me; I didn't rewind the film enough and, like an idiot, opened the bottom plate mid-roll. I'll probably lose a good 50% of the frames on that roll but the rest should be enough to tell me if there is a problem with the shutter. I loaded a new b&w roll into it today and will shoot that over the weekend. I have 7 days to return the camera and confirmed with the shop that the three-month warranty includes everything minus drops and cosmetic stuff. Here is a pic of the camera.

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Tha

I would think pretty much the same things as you would on your M4-2 or any film M. Don't forget its age. But if it was recently CLA's and sounds as nice as it does it should be great. Check the film advance, the slow speeds (now you know what to look for) the condition of the shutter curtains. The frame lines (all visible and clear) and of course any fungus. Is the covering in decent condition? Does the bottom plate come off and go back on smoothly. The film advance should be very smooth on that camera. Sounds nice!

Thanks, Barry. I've heard conflicting reports on balsam separation. Is that something that one could detect early signs of? For instance, I've heard that some bubbling along the left margin of the rf patch is not unusual or unexpected, but short of a pitch-black viewfinder, is there anything else I should look out for? Or is separation something that only ever happens if the camera is dropped?

Hi All,

I recently moved a lot of photography and musical gear I no longer use to make room for some new (to me) photographic gear. The first purchase was a Leica M4-2 which I love (and started a thread about). Yesterday, an opportunity came up to inspect and possibly purchase a Leica M2 in good condition. The camera is at a brick-and-mortar store with years of reputation so I am comfortable purchasing there. They mentioned that the camera had had its last service two years ago and everything on it is buttery smooth. It would come with a three-month warranty.

I've read several Leica buyer guides and am generally comfortable buying used gear. However, I wanted to ask for your collective wisdom (especially those who own an M2) for any tips as to what to look for during the inspection.

I've heard horror stories about balsam separation but don't really know what the early warning signs of it are. Any specific and descriptive signs of potential issues would be appreciated.

Thanks!

Welcome to the Leica world of angst and anxiety, and frequent CLA's "just to be sure". ;)

 

I see no indication of fungus in your picture of the rangefinder window. If it doesn't wipe off, then it would appear to be on the opposite side of the glass. In that case, a close look with a magnifying glass should tell you if it is fungus or not - it is not that hard to identify the organic growth of mould.

 

I can't tell you it is nothing or that it is OK not to do anything, but if I were confident it is not a growth you see in the window, I'd just enjoy the camera as is (as it sounds like it works perfectly), and have it addressed when the camera eventually, some time in the future, really need an overhaul.

I don't belive in preventive CLA's. If it works; use it. If it has a problem - send it in. You don't get "perfect" from a 45 years old used camera.

I have to agree with Niels. This can lead to a situation of fix it until it’s broken. The older Leicas are tough, I’ve taken tumbles skiing, and fallen off motorcycles with them. Perhaps I was just lucky, but they’ve only just had one CLA that was done by an expert. One of my two M4’s jammed and the frame selector was getting sticky, had them both done. My experience is NOT USING the camera may make it need more service. Invest in a couple bricks of your favourite films and have fun. Call it preventative maintenance! ;-)

Thanks guys. Another option is to keep an eye on it and see how it goes. Definitely enjoying the camera so far.

Congratulations on your new camera!

 

Can the seller tell you if its ever been CLA'd? One thing is the Leica rangefinder is not a precise camera. The slow speeds can sound fine, with the little bounce etc. but doesn't mean that they are at spec'd after so many years.

 

If the fungus hasn't etched the glass I think it can be cleaned. Like Bill said DAG would certainly be able to say. Did you develop any film? You'll want to see if its light tight and that the cloth curtains don't have any pinholes, especially if they haven't been replaced 60 years or so. It's often normal for a used camera to need a CLA. Sometimes the seller can be persuaded to share in the cost of that if you are paying full value for the camera based on how its condition is represented.

 

I too keep thinking about shooting some film, I think it does still retain its own look. I have an old FE2 as well as M's. Just a different system. FE2 has a good build and is certainly sturdy, not like the F2 or F3 as it's a little lighter build but not shabby at all. The Ms are a level of quality build above that you can feel . But comparing use of the 2 is a longer answer. Basically, any camera that works well is not hard to use once you understand it. Old non-metered Ms are as about as simple as you can get but they are not the most precise for framing.

Thanks, Barry. The seller is a reputable online seller (I will not name them here because I haven't contacted them about this issue yet and I'm sure they will help if I do). I have a 14-day return and 180-day warranty period both of which are still valid. The problem is I am currently overseas and had the camera shipped to me so sending it back for a return or work will cost me the same or more than a CLA potentially.

I went through the checklist on the cameraquest website after I got the camera and everything checks out. The 1 and 1/15 sec shutter speeds react just like described there and by Bill above, there is not a spec of dust or anything else anywhere on the shutter curtain or interior of the camera as far as I can see without taking the top plate out. The viewfinder is clear and crisp with no specs or spots. I film-tested it and the shutter works properly at most speeds I tested out (I have had black banding due to shutter lag on higher speeds on other cameras before). All speeds, slow to high, produce results as expected.

I find it a bit unusual that the rangefinder window is the only place that has this unusual spot. I will call the seller on Monday to ask discuss this issue and see what can be done about it.

How does the shutter sound? A CLA + finder upgrade will set you back around $550 - that'll solve any and all issues for many years to come. Personally, assuming you didn't pay top dollar for it, that's exactly what I would do.

 

I never buy a camera sight unseen without assuming it needs a CLA - regardless of what the seller says. In fact, I can't think of a single instance where a used M camera I purchased didn't need a CLA. If this is an eBay purchase, let it be reflected in your buyer feedback.

 

Contact Don Goldberg ("DAG") - dagcam[at]chrus[dot]net and move on. ...

Bill, thanks again for your insights. The shutter sounds normal as described. After looking at some photos online and my own experience with fungus on optics, I am now wondering if the spot is haze or some kind of chemical/glue. It lacks the fine hairline/tree branch appearance of fungus. In any case, I've contacted a tech for CLA work and hopefully I'll send it in soon. I also watched some videos and read a couple of online manuals; it looks like removing the top plate is a pretty simple job with the right tools.

The small window is a light source for the RF patch - the cleaner the window, the cleaner the RF patch. Listen to the slow sounds (15th of a sec. in particular) - you should hear a slight bounce after the initial click. On the rest of the slow speeds you should here a smooth consistent buzz. Any irregularity in these sounds will indicate the shutter is dry and time for a CLA.

 

Why did I get into all of that? Because the RF patch window looks like it has internal fungus and could be a sign of other issues. Maybe it's time for a CLA?

 

Minimally the "smudge" should be cleaned out as fungus has a tendency to spread. If this is the only issue it's just a matter of removing the topcover and cleaning the class and the area around it. This, by itself, would be a fast and easy repair.

Thanks, Bill. The seller has a 14-day return policy but taking this option would cost me about as much money as a CLA in shipping + insurance charges. Would a CLA get rid of the fungus or could it be too late in terms of the potential damage? I guess I am trying to figure out if there is a point where it makes more sense to return the item and look for another Leica M. What do you think?

Thanks, Karim. That is such a cool story and cool looking camera as well.

On a separate note, I just shot my second roll of film with the M4-2 and feel more comfortable with it. It's a total joy to shoot with but I did notice something peculiar and thought I'd reach out to all of you.

I've noticed a spot on the rangefinder window, which I unsuccessfully tried to clean with lens cleaning wipes. Now, my viewfinder is bright and clear, and the focus patch is white. I have no problems with focusing or anything of that nature. So my question is, what could this spot be and should I try to clean it some more or leave it be? Do smudges or internal dirt and fog impact the focus patch at all? Picture attached.

Congrats on your M4-2 acquisition! I once had a "beater" M4-2 that worked perfectly, that I regrettably sold a little over a year ago since I also have an M6 Classic and didn't see the need to have 2 M-film bodies (it seemed redundant at the time, but now I feel the seller's remorse). Anyway, as you may already know, the M4-2 was regarded as the redheaded stepchild of the M film line, although the issues that were the cause of complaints in the past are pretty much gone now as they have either been serviced or were later examples in its production run that had those problems resolved.

 

Here's a great summary of the history; in essence, the M4-2 "saved" the M line that continues its legacy through the digital models of today. I always found it interesting that there were complaints of the M4-2's lack of smoothness in its steel gear advance mechanism compared to that of the original M4, even though that same design carried through to the M4-P and M6, both highly regarded Leica bodies in general.

 

Again congrats, many years of enjoyment and hold on to it. The way Leica film bodies are priced now, I would have to pay double to replace the M4-2 I used to have.

 

EDIT: P.S., the 35/2.5 Color-Skopar is an outstanding lens, superb sharpness and contrast... I also used to keep it on my M4-2, but now it pretty much "lives" on my M8.

Thanks, Allan. I got my first roll of film developed and I must say the Color-Skopar is indeed incredibly sharp and contrasty. The more I learn about the M4-2, the more I believe some of the negative press around it is unfair. Many of the specs that it was criticized for became standard features on later models and I think it might be related to the "Made in Canada" label rather than actual specs. In any case, I am a happy camper.

How do you like it compared to your Nikon FE? Pros and cons?

NHSN is right in that I haven't had the camera long enough to have any definitive opinions about it. That said, I will say that it feels much more sturdy and slightly heavier than the FE. It is superior to the FE in every respect (e.g., build quality, operation, and overall experience). It's also slightly more compact length-wise but definitely a little thicker. With the Voigtlander 35mm attached, it is stealthy and perfect for street or documentary style photography. I would say the difference in feel and operation justify the x10 price difference for sure. If you have any specific questions about the FE vs M4-2, I'm happy to answer them.

Congratulations on your purchase...I used a M4 for 43 years, and it was my favorite of the Leica film models, although now I'm using an M2 and several screw mount bodies. Although lots of people like the M6, I found the viewfinder a bit too crowded. And then there is the current issue of electronics failures and Leica's lack of support or replacements. Think before jumping into this one. And have fun!

Thanks, SCL. I'm also not too hot on the idea of an electronic model so we'll see. Investing in more quality glass is definitely a wiser move.

If you decide to shoot available light B/W, the 35mm Summicron f2 series do a wonderful job. I use an M3 for 50mm and 90mm work, others may wish to comment on how well they work on the M4-2. Good camera choice.

I think the Summicron is probably the next purchase for me, either the 35 or 50.

BTW, the RF condenser, which helps prevent RF parch flair-out, was removed from the rangefinder about half-way into the M4-2 run; from that point forward Leica built rangefinders without it - until 2003 when the MP was introduced (on which Leica put it back in). If your M4-2's serial number is < 151xxxx it most likely does have it.

Bill, mine is 153XXXX, according to Wikipedia, that puts the production date sometime in 1980 and one of the last 4700 black M4-2s ever produced.

Hi All,

First post from a first-time Leica M owner. I just purchased a Leica M4-2 and decided to do a brief write-up about my first impressions of this beautiful camera.

Digital action photog

Though a hobbyist now, I have done professional concert and event work in the past. I shot some of my best photos using a Nikon D750 and Tamron 28-75 f2.8 combo, often in a dark and smoke-filled club, crawling around in a narrow photo pit and avoiding drunk crowd-surfers throwing beer cans on the stage. After three years of shooting metal and rock shows and festivals, which took me to a number of different cities and even as far as a few of countries, I decided to focus on my day job and took a long break from serious photography. In the meantime, I bought a Fujifilm X-E3 and a Fuji 23mm f2 and occasionally went out to shoot, nothing major or fancy.

Turn towards film

I then decided to sell my digital gear and focus on film. The machine gun approach that works in concert (and action) situations--I would routinely end up with 900-1200 frames a concert of 4-5 bands--didn't really work for me any more and I wanted to try something more challenging. I turned to film in hopes of bringing more thought and patience to my photography. I invested in a Nikon FE initially, then quickly added two Nikon FMs to my arsenal. My current Nikon FM is perhaps my favorite SLR of all time. I then added a Nikon 35mm f2 and started focusing on documentary-type work as a hobby. A couple of years passed by and my day job caught up with me again. Once again, photography took a back seat to whatever else was going on at the time. Until last week. Last week, I decided to celebrate my birthday with a nice toy, one that would hopefully inspire me to start shooting again and to potentially push my photography into new territory.

In comes the Leica

I had been wanting a Leica M rangefinder for a long time but never really seriously looked into buying one, until last week. I did a bunch of research, read a lot of reviews and user posts, and compared different models. I then decided that the M4-2 was the perfect machine for me. The all-black aesthetics and humble origins of this model kind of made me fall in love with it from the beginning. The history behind the M4-2 was also appealing to me and definitely played a factor in my decision to go for it. Luckily, I found one in excellent condition online and pulled the trigger. A few days later, a FedEx box arrived. Below I share my review of this camera and some of my thoughts.

First impressions

The camera immediately feels like a brick in my hands. It is sturdy and has excellent build quality, just what I expected from a Leica. The viewfinder is crystal clear and bright, the 35mm framelines are at the edge of the frame (I wear glasses) but work well enough for my eyes. The film advance lever has just the right amount of tension to it and is smooth. The shutter speed dial is firm and snappy, and the rewind crank is smooth. I was pleasantly surprised by the Leitz stamp as it has been stamped deeper than I thought it would be based on the reviews I had read. It is exactly like the Fujifilm stamp on my X-E3 (but of course much larger and more aesthetically pleasing). The shutter button is perhaps the smoothest and quietest I have ever had on any camera. It is simply a joy to use. In terms of overall quality, the M4-2 is the best camera I have ever held in my hand and I feel confident taking it everywhere and using it in any situation.

Hands-on experience

The camera is a joy to shoot with. I am using a Voigtlander 35mm f2.5 Color Skopar with it and have been very impressed with how smoothly this combo operates out in the wild. The rangefinder focusing mechanism, though new to me, is a ton of fun compared to the SLR/DSLR mechanisms I have used in the past. There is a lot more emphasis on precision and it all requires a little more work to get right. As a result, I find myself slowing down even more as I get a hang of it all. I am also still getting used to the longer minimum focusing distance afforded by a rangefinder camera but don't necessarily see this as a negative. I also really like the rapid film loading feature present in this and other M models. In some ways, I find it easier to load film this way than the classic SLR method.

Limitations

There are a couple of things about the camera I don't like. First, the vulcanized rubber, while nice and comfortable, does feel a little too much like my cheaper SLRs. This is something that has been mentioned many times over in the past and is due to the cost-cutting measures taken up by Leica during the production of the M4-2 and M4-P. There are a couple of small chips in the rubber in the bottom edges so I hope it will hold up long term. I am also not a huge fan of the frame counter with the plastic dome and wish it was real glass or made from a sturdier material.

All in all, I am very happy with my purchase even though I could have paid less for a more banged-up copy of this model. Looking ahead, I am already considering buying an M6 TTL or M4 black along with a Summicron 50mm. Or I might decide to go with the Summicron and just keep shooting with the M4-2 for life. Decisions, decisions. I am currently shooting my first roll of film and hope all will turn out fine and that this machine won't need a service or repair anytime soon.